Vez

What makes you say its over oiling? All the dtr's i have had have all been smoky ones, better to have too much than not enough imo. There is no adjustment on the later model 2-stoke pumps afaik. On the older models ( pre 2001) you could add shims under the pump pulley to make adjustments, may be worth looking into.

Ok so i have finally got around to Videoing the PV since i have earthed the black and green wire. And it appears that the PV is now rotating the correct way . I will put all this together in one thread along with the CAT removal and wire earthing when i find the time. Vez.

1. If you rename the thread to: 'DT125R oil pump problems' then when ever anybody searches google for the same it will lead to this thread, and you will be contributing . 2. I posted the second picture to show you that part no4 is slightly thicker than a shim, so no you don't need more then one. Furthermore, If it was me, i would be taking the damaged pumps apart and examining them for any internal problems before fitting a new pump. This will also give the opportunity to measure the distance from the gasket face of the pump to the center of the cog in the pump, you can then do the same on the pump drive shaft to make sure they align and mesh correctly.

Imo the o-ring is stopping the pump seating properly. My manual doesn't even mention an o-ring.

Thought i would make it easier for people to see the pics.

but at least it was a BigOne

That should be RIGHT onto the A63 And that should be OVER the motorway, Off at jnct 42 > Right at the first roundabout (3rd exit) > Straight on and the second roundabout ( 2nd exit) and then > Right at the 3rd roundabout onto the A63 ( 3rd exit). Then its onto the B1222 by a left hand sliproad that takes you under the A63. Edited due to ball**king from my truck driving Dad

Which type of wheel? i gave three options.

DTX front end or TDM wheels and some spacers/brake mods. Or custom built wheels. Why not just get the DTX? If you spend some time introducing yourself in the bar it would be nice . Vez

*coughcough*

Congrats on the Pass Foamy. I phoned the police staion because i didn't believe you could ride without tax when i MOT'd a rebuild, all you need is insurance and an appointment.

Now thats got to to spoil your day

I was referring to the part about introducing yourself in the bar, I'm a grumpy bstd at times, and was when i posted the link. 28mm springs to mind when talking carb sizes on the DTR, but not 100% sure. As Og asked, i too am intrigued by what is wrong with your original though?

Shouldn't that be 4th from the top Pat Depending on how you hold the needle, with pointy end down its 4th from top anyway.

Milne, sorry to say, but that is a hard post to read. First off, i have never heard off a big boy exhaust, do you mean BigOne? The bottles you have removed, the only one that it is advised to block up is the rear one on the carb to airbox manifold, although i personally didn't notice much difference, if any in doing so. I think you should put the one back on the carb to cylinder manifold. This one is an old tried and tested method to get more power from the bike, it basically holds an amount of premixed air and fuel ready for when the power band comes in. It is called the YEIS - Yamaha Energy Induction System for a reason . Also i would put the snorkel back on, If you have to have more air getting in, buy a snorkel for a DT200 Lanza and fit that instead, although i don't think its needed. 70-75 in 4th , i think you have mixed 5th gear and 4th gear up, It has 6 gears in total you know? Just rotating the power valve through 180 is not always the right thing to do, make sure it is set correctly. To do so: Remove the exhaust so you can see inside the exhaust port. turn ignition on so the PV does its zeeek zeeek thing ( i.e primes itself ready to start) then turn the ignition off. Feel inside the exhaust port to make sure the power valve is flush with the roof of the port. If it isn't, slacken the cables and remove the pulley, position the PV correctly, put the pulley back on and tension the cables back up. This is what should happen when you turn the ignition on and the PV is aligned correctly. Oh and the best way to earth the PV (reed switch as you said) is like so: HTH Vez.

I would donate, as i do with a few other charities etc., but to be honest mate, I don't like to spend money online, its not safe. Post a cheque, will do, part with cash face to face, no problem. £500+million was stolen online last year, in the UK alone ( and thats what they know about/can trace) *Source http://www.guardian....s-postcode-data . Vez.

Hi Steven, Welcome to the forums . Vez.

I never had alot of luck painting plastic tbh, so if you manage it post some pics please

Bikes: Yamaha DT175 Yamaha DT50 Honda H100 Honda CB100 Suzuki TS50 Yamaha DT125R 88 x2 Yamaha DT125R 92 ish Yamaha DT125R 97 (present) Yamaha DT125RE 04 (stolen by scum ) Yamaha DT125RE 07 (Present) Sachs XTC 125 - N (present) (DTR engine)

Welcome Emzed, And thank you for making me feel young again with all this talk of bikes from before my time . Vez.

New plastics you can get direct from Yamaha, not too expensive either, they sting you on the stickers though. Rad scoops were £17 each last time i got some (£12 for stickers), the front mudguard £25 and the right hand rear side panel £20. Full set for around £100+ at a rough estimate. After-market are rare except for front mudguards, which can be taken from a few different bikes. YZ etc. Here for graphics http://www.ddgraphic...36a7ad096f0270b There are places for custom graphics too, but they are expensive. HTH Vez.

Welcome to the forums Darren. Vez.

Damn thats a mess, sorry to see it like that , fscking assoles.... at least you have it back i suppose. Have your insurance payed for you to get it repaired?

Would be a helluva ride from there mate. Theres always next year

Where abouts are you in the UK Conner? Interested in the YOC meet near York? ( see the link in my sig for info)