Vez

Ill never complain about potholes etc. in the UK ever again!

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=whjviUck9G0 Part 1, navigate to part 2 etc from there *continues whistling

Its nearly done, i'll post a thread when i'm done. Too tight to pay someone else to do it .

http://www.vidiac.com/video/On-Any-Sunday

Missed that part on the first read, if thats the case then i need to connect each wire to the next segment, kinda like a daisy chain effect, thus creating the 1 piece of wire. Thinking about it that would create the circuit i thought should be there. Thanks for your help btw Bark.

Maybe i should make my situation a little clearer, i snapped the windings by rotating the commuter whilst the part with the windings on was rusted into the motor body. So after some messing i am now left with this Now in the process of re-winding the windings and can only find one place to connect each of the three wires too, that being a tab on each of the segments. I have read that the other end of each wire is not connected to anything and left open so to speak. But i have also read that the other end is sometimes connected to the commuter and placed into the slots as to break the circuit. Basically i'm confused and probably out of my depth with this. EDITED due to not reading the above properly

Electrics isn't my favorite subject, so after doing some reading i think that the coils on this electric motor are open circuit. Although this doesn't seem right to me because i thought that a coil needed a circuit for the electricity to pass through and create the magnetic field . Can anyone tell me if this is correct and the windings are only connected at one end? Or if not, then where the other end connects too?

Surprised you didn't mention that age old tried and tested method of finding locations via coordinates................. The map and compass . What do you tech the scouts these days, then again maybe i don't want to know the answer to that one . Bark, you need to be registered to see the coordinates on that site btw.

I balls'ed it up and was looking at an early DTR schematic (3db model) , can't seem to find the LC schematic. If you can send a copy/scan of the circuit diagram i will take a look and try and help work something out. I'm still sure that the LC has a ICU though, remember buying one in error for my first DTR and that was marked up as a DT125LC. The DTR cdi's have been going for silly money, depending on what part number they are ( 88-97 versions) or when the seller posts them as being a de-restricted version . But even the later ones seem to be fetching good money( itro £50-£100)

^^^^ Bet you did Cynic. If it was my pump i would leave it alone unless there is no white-ish smoke when the bike is started cold and also at high revs once warm.

The ICU was a separate unit on the early DTlc's. LC schematic If you have a cdi from a DTR then it should be possible to wire that in to work. Ditch your wiring loom and just wire the CDI to the generator, kill switch, ht coil and the side stand switch. And this should give you a spark iirc. (oh and an earth point). DTR schematic ( note the same connections for the cdi to generator etc) If you have problems with the DTR CDI check the blue/yellow wire, this caused me a headache when i first tried to setup for off-roading. PM me know if you need anymore help with which wires ect. HTH Vez.

Its common to get the two mixed up with a 2-stroke bike being different from a 4-stroke or car etc. The links sells all the oils you will need. . But, they can also be bought from a motorcycle shop once you know what to look/ask for. Firstly. You want a 10-30w gearbox oil like this 1 http://www.opieoils....with-wet-clutch . This goes into the right-hand side of the engine, the black screw plug, on the inside of this plug there should be a dipstick with marks on for the oil level. You should check this oil level weekly and top up as required, although it shouldn't need topping up unless there is a leak or other problem. Secondly you will need 2-stroke oil like this http://www.opieoils....for-motorcycles This will go into the plastic tank, which from memory is located to the left of the seat or under the seat. This will need topping up regularly as like Dave says it gets burned up with the petrol to lube the piston and bearings. Hope this is a little clearer, if not let us know which parts need clarification Vez.

No gearbox oil will make the gears very clunky and stiff as can too much oil. There should be a short dip stick on the oil filler cap that has markings on with the level, check it when the bike is cold and upright. Check here for oils https://www.opieoils...ngine-oils.aspx pick your model and year etc and it will tell you what they recommend . iirc it should be 10-40w for the gearbox and semi synthetic 2-stroke for the engine, go with a brand like silkolene and you should be ok. HTH

Looks like you all had a proper blast, truly gutted i couldn't make it. Hopefully there will be another meet @ squires next year , or sooner. Excellent write up and pics guys, makes up for not being able to get there Kudos to 2-Wheels for getting there, amazed you attempted it at all on a 125 . Now excuse me, there is some serious sulking to be done.

Super glue sounds iffy to me. So does the sanding down as the seal will have to have a smaller internal diameter. I remember watching a guy fill in the pits on a forklift truck hydraulic ram using a blowtorch and a rod of some metal material ( maybe chrome stick or ally welding rod ) and then sanding the excess off, wish i had asked exactly what now. Point being its possible to repair them and maybe worth looking into. HTH Edit: Maybe fitting fork gators and cable tying them on(I believe MOT testers are not allowed to remove anything that is fixed in place )will get it through the MOT.

Doesn't the 86 model have an ignition control unit as well ? Maybe the culprit. Cdi's are fetching silly money atm, seen one go for £100+ not long ago. You could try a cdi from a Sachs xtc-n 125 as they have DTR engine and similar cdi, might be worth a look as they aint as popular as the DTR, ebay.de have more spares for it though.

Good to hear its fixed Hate to say it, but it may of just needed re-torquing. The head/cylinder is supposed to be checked and re-torqued periodically after a new gasket if fitted.

Because when i have had leaks ect in the past, the radiator has never sucked fluid from the expansion bottle, seems to be a one way street on the DTR ime. Although the tubes are routed differently on the newer models, i have never wanted to take the chance of thinking i have plenty of coolant just because the expansion bottle looks full.

Nice little patch up . Prepare to be bent over a barrel by the dealer . On Aj Suttons website a new front pipe is £611, but i was quoted by Manchester extreme £285 for a full system.

I top up from the radiator with the bike upright and also try to keep the expansion bottle between the marks. If you do this and it still leaves puddles, then a compression inspection is on the cards imo.

Just trying to help and he has got a temporary fix now. Besides, i wouldn't know a rxs100 if it jumped out and bite me, Nice welcome for the new guy btw

I was looking forward to meeting you all too. Its not over yet, i don't give up that easily. Octane boost is a good way of getting a nice fuel mixture

Downside to getting a bike without knowing the full history of it i guess, think it was ragged from new and never run in properly Thanks for the offer Paul, but i need to get the bike right asap. I have 2 days to have a look at it and a shed full of spares so there is a slim chance i may still make it, but its better i say now than any later. Tbh im toying with the idea on putting the sachs engine in, going to start it up after work tomorrow and see how its runs. Anyone know the timescale after notifying the DVLA about an engine change before you can ride it?

+1 for the above. But i will ask where are you topping it up. The radiator or the coolant expansion bottle?