Vez

Different thats for sure. And who is the "wide"?

I can't help you with your bike, DTR fan here. Introductions can be posted here though http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/forum/48-noobs/

Not asking too much with out an introduction then..

The weight of the floats is not enough to compress the spring in the valve, providing the spring is not broken.

You will all be listening to binaural beats next

Welcome to the forum Ryan from Newcastle. Whats wrong with still having a CBT at 18?

mmmmm There is another Ryan on here also from Newcastle, with similar problems. Strange coincidence. http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/24806-dt-ticking-over-and-reving-problem/ http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/24821-dtr-125-float/ http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/24818-yamaha-st-125-carb-settings/ http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/24801-yamaha-dtr-125-starting-running-trouble/ Maybe learn to use the forum search function.

Stand the carb upside-down (as pictured below) on a desk or similar and use a steel rule to measure the distance X in the diagram. Place the end of the rule in the red rectangle, take measurement from the side as arrowed. Should they need adjusting, bend the small tab circled, being very careful not to break it. (Pictured from above) HTH EDIT: Picture added ( the picture is angled and the float is actually set at 21mm)

Float bowl off, carb flipped upside down X = 20-21mm I bend the small tab labeled A to adjust the height.

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/24801-yamaha-dtr-125-starting-running-trouble/ Last post in your previous thread

And now we all look like were talking crazy talk...... ..Well no change there then

I used a thin layer of gun gum on the last exhaust i had like that.

You need to make sure all the jets are clean. There is also a power jet that is cast into the float bowl ( the small pipe that connects the float bowl to the main carb body). Try and blow into it and make sure its clear.

Have you set the carb up correctly and made sure there are no blockages ? Have you left it long enough to warm up?. ( its a heated carb and runs alot better when warm) I have an idea but want to be sure you have checked the basics first.

Hi, and welcome to the forum

Welcome to the Forum Martinread

Probably trying to spam for the little link in the sig and the yoc link is merely a distraction.

Personally i would get a headlight from somewhere that sells E-marked ones. Its my guess that the one you linked to isn't suitable for UK roads and i believe they have less restrictive rules in Portugal, judging by some of the DTR mods they have over there that is, but i could be wrong and it may well pass. What you could do, if you really like that one, is get a standard DTR headlight or cheap E-marked one for the MOT and change it over when its passed

Good to hear you're safe. The pictures i have seen are pretty scary tbh.

I use the standard michelin T63 and they seem to fair pretty well in the snow and generally all round conditions. Other than full blown off-road tires though, I haven't tried anything else on the DTR so its a biased opinion. Be careful with the after market headlight units as some will not pass an MOT.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Nice choice of bike too

Welcome to the forum .

Welcome to the forum Nice reliable commuter the ybr

Welcome to the forum Mark

Think this was a case of too many cooks spoil the broth as the answer was here all along. There's adjustment on the 2-stroke pump cable. Also the option of adjusting the throttle cable junction box. Both worth checking for incorrect adjustment before going down the shim route imo. TO add a picture click the icon to the right of the link icon and past the URL in the popup box, or use img the code below