Vez

Welcome to the Forum

Same here, think its just rude expecting help without so much as a "how do you do, im xxx" Tbh i don't think i made an introduction post , think the first post i made was helping someone to de-restrict there DTRE iirc. Can't we ask Alex to place some kind of advisory on the registration email, requesting new people to make an introduction of some sort? Just a thought. Vez.

Well presuming that you have thrown the speedo out ( ) you will have trouble getting the bike to run without the reed switch that is in the speedo housing, probably not impossible, but it won't be easy. You haven't made this at all easy with your " I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok" approach to cutting the bikes wires. I hope you learn from it! Out of all the different DTR models, you have the one with the crap wiring diagram. If you don't have a manual, get one. And then study the wiring diagram for the 3RM9 models. I can list the components you will need, but this isn't a one post solution I'm afraid to say. You will need: ( presuming your bike is a 3RM9 model) CDI Ignition Coil Rectifier/Regulator Battery ( with fuse). CDI magneto ( flywheel generator) Engine kill switch (ideally you want the ignition and kill switch, but you could just use the kill switch, but the modding wont be easy either way) Power-Valve Servo Reed Switch The Cdi should connect up to the Flywheel generator, ignition coil and Power valve servo motor without any modification, just a basic connect the blocks. ( the cdi and ignition coil will require earthing) The rectifier/regulator should connect to the flywheel generator and battery with minor modification to the wires. i.e adding terminals. ( the rectifier will need earthing) The read switch needs to be connected to the cdi and power-valve servo and will be best soldered into the circuit.(i'm not aware of anybody successfully removing the reed switch). The engine kill switch should be connected to the battery on one side and the rest of the power circuit on the other ( red from battery one side, cdi etc. on the other) you will have to customize this bit yourself. If you struggle with any of the above, post some pictures and a good description of what you have done and i will try and help further. Bear this in mind. When i first rebuilt a DTR (at about 13-14 y/o) the electrics gave me nightmares for days, but with perseverance it worked in the end. So don't give up if it gets a little taxing on the brain cells and takes a while to get it right. HTH Vez

Its a DT125R, possibly a import, as far as im aware the UK bikes all start with *3MD* for the engine and frame numbers. So, it puts your bike anywhere in between 1999-2003. (in the 3RM9 model range) Is the speedometer in KMp/h or Mp/h? Have you cut the speedo wires? IF yes, what are you like with a soldering iron and terminals? Vez.

I heard a rumor that you were going on a 50cc Mobelette?

Two Stroke Gathering http://squires-cafe.co.uk/index.php/events/cal/2010/09 4th September 2010 B1222 Newthorpe, North Yorkshire, United Kingdom squires-cafe.co.uk Gathering starts from 12pm and a ride out from 2pm Back for the second time after last years great success. Full camping facilities Great food and excellent beer. There will be a ride out setting off at 2pm prompt from the entrance. Anyone attending the ride out please fill up first. Then back to the cafe. Anyone camping can then indulge in a few pints. Streetfighter Bash 4th-5th September 2010 ( see above for details)

Without the PV you can ditch all of the loom, but if you keep the PV it will need a custom one making up. Then there is the reed switch ( if it has one) etc. Without the year and model its a guessing game. Vez.

I was OG, missed the post about the PV .

http://www.collegehumor.com/video:1935106

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Welcome to the Forum Darren Vez.

Under the seat, on the left hand frame strut, there should be a sticker with the model number on, failing that post the first 6 digits of your engine/frame number as that will get the model and year etc, if its a DT125R. Vez.

Welcome to the Forums CT Vez.

Sounds iffy to me.

Funnily enough, Manchester UK, near Oldham, up in t'hills. I will dig the tail light out the shed for next weekend, i'm not sure about the LED swap, but we can work something out. Not got any sachs xtc parts have you?? . I'll send you a pm. Vez.

Welcome to the forum Darren, Tempting offer,Where in the world are you? Vez.

Have you fitted the exhaust yet OG ??

Good to hear your enjoying it CT

It may have moisture in there, if you are concerned it has then drain the old fuel out and replace with fresh. I get the feeling you don't quite understand what I'm saying with the fuel cap, there needs to be a breather hole/space/pipe on fuel tanks to allow air into the tank, which in turn allows fuel to flow out the bottom. If it hasn't got a large enough breather then the fuel will be unable to flow out fast enough at high revs, and will eventually stop the fuel flowing all together until the pressure has had chance to go away, and will then allow the bike to run again. What i was suggesting was, next time the bike stops running and won't start, remove the cap ( allowing the pressure to go and the fuel to flow) and then try and start the bike. If the above doesn't apply and you are thinking about stripping the carb there is a thread with pictures explaining how to do it here > http://www.yamahaclu..._0 < HTH Vez.

Welcome to the forum Vez.

If the bike is over heating, the warning light on the far left side of the clocks would light up telling you so, is this the case? I would get the oil pump fixed as it may be causing a lack of lubrication to the piston/crank and will lead to damaging the engine if left for too long. It is strange that the bike is ok in between 8000-9000rpm. The air filter is under the seat. I'm not sure where the fuel filters are. They may be part of the fuel tap on the tank, or even inside the tank its self on the other side of the tap, you may want to inspect the tap. The spark plug will give a good indication as to the way the bike is running regarding tuning, so a picture of the spark plug would help alot i imagine. I suggest emptying some fuel from the carb into a jar to check for contamination. There is an overflow pipe that runs from the bottom of the carb (usually dangling down in the middle of the bike), place this in a jar and turn the screw at the very lowest point of the carb to open the drain circuit, and check the fuel. http://www.filestube...47803ea/go.html < service manual for your bike will help for locating the filters and drain plug etc. Vez.

No problem Mike. Welcome to the Forum. You say it has had an engine rebuild recently, was it done by a garage? and if so is there a chance the work is still under warranty? Failing that it may be an idea to check your filters (fuel and air), check the engine oil level and check the condition of the spark plug. Does the bike run OK in between 8000rpm and 9000rpm? When you say there is an oil leak, where is the oil leaking from? it may not be related but it could possibly help to understand what could be wrong. At this point im thinking maybe its an electrical fault, but thats clutching at straws without knowing more about the condition of things. Pictures or even a video of the problem may help to get a better idea. HTH Vez.

No it isn't. I saw two choices, 1 ignore the post ( like happens alot) and chance letting it go unanswered or 2 say something and give the new guy a point in the right direction. I was in a good mood so decided to explain MY opinion on how he may get some help here. I thinks its called constructive criticism. If you don't like it, then meh, thats your opinion and your entitled to it as i am mine.

See this thread, http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/22734-tzr50-splutters-after-7000rpm-help/page__pid__124383#entry124383 Same applies. Vez.