DTGordo

Ooooooo, Okey Dokey. She might blow out then. If it doesn't work I saw some Yamaha exhaust gasket that wasn't actually a gasket but looked like some sort of treated fire proof string. That would have to last better but I've got no idea what it's called.

Between the expansion chamber and exhaust on the dt where there is supposed to be a ring/gasket of some description, I ran a bead of gasket silicon stuff around the male bit (a touch oversize), waited for it to set and jammed it in. Seems to be holding

Way out of my depth here so the posts have informed me a great deal....Ta! Is the rectifier on the 250a (74) the bit that is the "regulator"? Seems the terms interchange a bit. Anyway, I ordered a new rectifier at about $30AU.

When I found my bike the crankcase oil was pretty milky, hadn't been used for donkeys and clearly a bit of water in there. I had to wait until I got it running to really get the oil sorted out and run a couple of changes after it was warm. I went for the cheaper 10W30 oil from car places rather than the much more expensive "special" 10W30 oil from a bike shop. At least for the first few changes anyways. Happy to hear if that's bad or not but she's running sweet now. Interested in the decal side of things as I'm thinking about how far I take the fix-up. Hard to find exactly the right ones but got pretty close ('74 DT250). Had everything except the tank stripe was different. At $65 US + postage I might leave it though and keep looking. How do you do it? Do you scan the originals? I have no idea. Cheers,Gordo

Yep Ebay. Things turn up eventually. I have a great bike wrecker near where I live who's been able to get pretty much everything I've needed from "out the back". You checked wreckers? Sorry and OK this is stupid but you've re-traced your steps looking in gutters....? You never know, it might be there waiting for you.....

I take a can of pressurised tyre sealant anytime out in the sticks and it's worked great to get me out of trouble more than once. How long the stuff lasts is difficult to say but it is reasonable. I replace the tube when I get excited enough to get the tyre levers onto it. Gordo

The horn and other lights run off the battery while the head and tail lights and instrument lights run off AC current directly from the lighting coil and flywheel. With ALL AC lights in operation, the circuit will be balanced and the voltage will be the same at all points at a given RPM. So you need to have your tester on AC. If the volts are too high or too low, check for bad connections, damaged wires or burned out bulbs on the AC circuit. Then.....If no joy there check the resistance in the windings of the lighting coil. Hang in there, things have a way of working out. Don't work on it frustrated. mTake the dog for a walk and come back to it