DTGordo

Hi Terps, Yeah I saw your post a couple of days ago and was going to msg you anyway as there's not too many 250a's around as far as I can tell. Happy to help and you might help me as well. I got my bike almost by accident on Ebay for $250. I was just looking for any items near home and saw the bike flash up. I went out and had a look and it was rough, wouldn't start blah blah. I had no idea and thought it would be fun to fix up and chucked a bid in. I'm pretty happy with it. Anyways, enough about me....... No idea about part compatability. I reckon that's a dicey area. On the other side of things, you could go a year or two either side and up and down the engine sizes and lots of bits would fit. You got a wrecker near you? I'm lucky that one is not too far away and have been getting a few bits here and there. Main thing is to see it to make sure it matches/fits. I'd be surprised if you get failed on not needing a key. Does it have an ignition switch on it? If it does and it looks ok you could probably take it to a locksmith to get a key cut. That key will then fit the gas tank and steering lock which are useful too. The thing comes off pretty easy and then the actual switch can be pulled apart too if you need to clean it (or make a key for it). Now the bike - I've only had trail bikes and four stroke ones at that. She's a basic ride and compared to current bikes has shite suspension, shite brakes and is doing it's fair share to make the environment shite. But I LOVE IT!! It's such a simple machine to work on, fix and tune. The 250 has reasonable power for the mix of on and off road. We've got hills around us and I've put on 13/49 chainrings. Really low but it will still do 100km/hr. I ride to work although it's getting a bit cold now and get up into the mountains near Canberra when I can. Hopefully up there on Friday. The bike has been reliable and fun so good luck with it and keep in touch..... Gordo

I saw a good article in a vintage bike mag that a guy did the electric plating thing and also put nuts in it, wrapped it up really well and put it in a small cement mixer with lots of padding and let the mixer do the work......

Hi Hutch, If it can't be repaired, I'd be looking for one at a wrecker or keeping an eye out for someone selling an old engine. For parts in general, I go to the bike shop to see if parts are still available and how much they cost and compare that with the wrecker and other 2nd hand stuff (usually online). I'd be surprised if you could still get a new crankcase cover but never hurts to look. There are part catalogues available online that have the part numbers and diagrams as well. yamaha-motor.com has most things listed but there are some other good ones as well. Gordo

Hiya, For the brakelight check the front and rear switches which may be broken or out of adjustment, causing the light to come on all the time. Normal that it dims with the indicators on without the engine running. Are the rear indicators connected as thety weren't working with the front? For the horn, check that the wiring is getting power with a voltmeter. Might be a dirty connector or in the switch itself. Hope that helps, Gordo

125's had the electric start (which I still find amazing). Have a look at the parts cat. at yamah-motor.com which gives a good idea of what things should look like. I found that to be really good for me until the dt250a stuff was mostly removed. They even had technical bulletins on there which were great but I can't find them anymore. That sucks but I had a quick look and the 175b list is there. I reckon you need a wiring diagram too as it sounds like the wiring has been messed with. There shouldn't be any wires outside of the harness running from the light back through the bike. Any luck it will be minor and just related to the headlight. You might find that it was wired that way because the lighting coil is stuffed. Does the tail light work with the engine running? That should be the same as the headlight in that it should only work with the engine running. A service manual would be useful as it would have the wiring diagrams and troubleshooting guides. Keep posting how you get on......... Gordo

Howdy, Headlight works off the AC circuit (that needs the engine running) while signals, horn and brake light work the DC circuit (they'll work with just the ignition on but engine running or not). Basically two different systems but linked. While I was writing, it all sounds like the battery needs replacing but read on. You can charge a battery up but it doesn't mean it will hold its charge if it's stuffed. For the turn signals not flashing that sounds like the flasher relay being dodgy. That's under the fuel tank somewhere (on the 250a anyways) and relatively easy to replace. Do they flash at all with the engine running? Might be it's not getting enough power to trip the switch. For the horn, sounds like it's drawing current if the headlight dims (high beam only? Prob does both). That should work without the engine running with the ignition on . Leave it til last cause it needs a minimum current to work and it might be working ok if you get the battery sorted. If not, I'd check it with a voltmeter to confirm that there's current. If no current I'd then check and clean all the connectors, tracing them back through the nest of wires in the headlight. If current, pull the horn off and clean the connections. That may get it going. If not the horn is buggered. Hope that helps, Gordo

Hi Bryan, Any chance at all that there is water in carby? I had similar and thought I had cleaned the carby. Seems I didn't blow the jets out properly but like you, could get it going if I put fuel into the cylinder. If all obvious like between the tank and carby is clear and fuel getting down to the carb, I'd pull the carby apart. If stopped after riding for a bit, could be the fuel is contaminated and you got water in the line. That's all I got. Gordo

Reminds me of when I run the fuel out of 2-stroke outboards. Runs fast then stops. Will run a bit longer with choke out. Too much air one way or the other? No idea other than sounds like carby. Gordo

Fishing line works too and I agree to warm it up a little. Gordo

Hi PKay, Depends where you are but you should be able to get a suitable flasher relay from a motorbike shop. With the old parts, some shops are not so good with supply while others have bits that suit the 6v. Maybe I'm lucky but a shop close to home had exactly what I needed and it wasn't expensive. Haven't had to get a filter for the tank but I reckon you should put a filter in the fuel line anyway and that would probably suffice. On tank repair, depends on what you need to do. Minor hole or to or a little rust shouldn't be too much of a problem but if it's too stuffed you'd be better off getting it replaced. The DT was relatively common so they are around somewhere. Hope that helps. Gordo

Hi BigBlkYJ, The head, tail and instrument lights are on the AC circuit and the indicators, horn and stop lights are on the DC circuit. As far as I know, a few things can give you too much voltage on the AC cicuit, blowing the bulbs. Check all the connections and for any burned out bulbs in the AC circuit. It needs all the bulbs working to balance the voltage. Could be the lighting coil resistance - I'm not too good on the detail on that one or the 175. If AC bits are good then it could be in the charging circuit - If bad connections, or stuffed battery or rectifier, the voltage will then be too high in the lighting circuit. I had the same problem which was fixed after a new battery and voltage recitifier. No problems since then (nearly 2 years now). Hope that hels. Gordo

Hi Helmet, I'm able to get them no probs at a couple of bike shops in my area (SE Aus). The cowling on the headlight comes off with one screw and then you take the bulb out from there and disconnect the wiring. Gordo

Hi 2smokewilleh, Almost a novice here but..... On the pre-mix, I've been running 20-1. Sure that's heavy on the oil but on what I've read, it makes sense to go to the mix that has the maximum amount of oil when it's under load and high revs. A bit of smoke is better than having to replace the piston and grind out the barrell (and I'm right out at it's limit anyways). I am not totally convinced yet that the autolube pump works on mine so am still running the pre-mix plus the autolube. I am sure that it will run better just with the oil pump but want to be sure. On the carby, I'd start by pulling it apart and cleaning it out. Sounds like some dirty/blocked jets maybe. That's probably the easiest place to start and the carby is pretty simple. On the other stuff, you'd need to confirm which model and look it up. A manual will have all of that info and also about how to do the carby. If the engine number is 450 something it's a '74 and I can look the stuff up. DTGordo

Hey all, Yesterday I was looking through a few posts which had included in them a little sign that told me what my IP address and ISP were. Kind of like a cartoon picture of a sign inserted into the posts (there was more than one) and some had a picture of a penguin next to it. It looked like it was part of a particular string of posts. I logged out and it doesn't seem to be there now. No probs with my computer or any other sites. Bit of a worry. Any ideas?

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go and see what happens. It's getting close to going into the recycling bin.......

Bit like that here too. I thought it might be our dial up connection to Europe.

Hi all, Happy New Year! Mid last year I got hold of a plastic enduro tank which had had a couple of holes/cracks plastic welded. They were leaking when I got it and I started patching with a soldering iron and bits of plastic. Looks to work well for two leaks but one has been a pest to stop. Anyone got any tricks of the trade that might help? Ta, Gordo

Mate, Nice work Aaron and nice work Mary on the video! It sounds like it's running pretty well and looks like it's got a bit of go. Good luck with all the parts - I reckon there's heaps more spares for those in the States than here if EBay is anything to go by. Have fun. Gordo

Hi mate, Not been on the forum for a while but saw your post. Hopefully you have it sorted by now. I replaced the relay on the 250 and tried a wrecker first for one that was original(ish). It didn't work then another place sold me a new two pin relay saying it would work. I couldn't get it and then ended up at another place where I got a new three pin one that worked fine. I could go and get the details off the bike it if you need it assuming that they'd use the same relay. Gordo

Hi Deadstar, I'd start by getting a service manual/book for your bike that will provide you with most basic information. Some books are better than others but it comes down to what you can find as well. I got mine off ebay but some librarys have em too (which I found out by accident). You'll probably be replacing bits and pieces for an old bike so find a parts source: motorcycle wreckers and ebay/online sellers seem to turn up bits for most anything over time. You might need some tools particular to the bike too if you plan on doing most of the stuff yourself. As she's not running, I'd be going through the trouble-shooting bits in the manual first and that might get it up and going. Maybe you know someone that has some idea about small engines that might be able to help you and this forum is a good connection to lots of people who know lots and some who know a lot less (like me) but who like stuffing around with old bikes. Most of all enjoy getting your hands dirty and pulling the thing apart and putting it back together. Hope you get out there soon, Gordo

No idea on that one. I'd try the screw driver or some strong wire and a rag to pick it out and rinse it out with a bit of fuel to make sure it's clean. You might also to be able to tap it loose from the outside? Good reason for fuel filters eh. Gordo

Hi mate, Can you poke a long screw driver to it to loosen it up and clean it out with a rag? With water I found it hard to dry the tank out properly (I guess I'm not very patient) and ended up having to pull the carby apart. Gordo

Hi all, I've been out riding and on a river crossing the bike stopped. After a short time it started ok again and I figured the water that was causing the problem had evaporated with a warm engine so wasn't too concerned. Since getting home I've found a bit of water in where the magneto is and there's water in the crankcase as well. I thought the covers were sealed pretty well. I was thinking maybe the seals/gaskets up around the carby, reed valves and barrel but have no idea really. Otherwise it's running fine and I've cleaned it out and changed the oil but have to sort that out as it's a long walk home if I get stuck. Any pointers here appreciated. Ta, Gordo

Might be ok when it's warmed up too and the oil's had a chance to work through the plates anyway. What Tyler said sounds good. If it persists, you might need to have a look at the plates. Gordo

I think most bikes are set up with optimum ratios across whatever the bike is intended for. I messed around a bit with the sprocket sizes on the first bike I had (250 4 stroke) and I'm thinking about doing the same again now. I guess it all depends on what you want to do. Off-road I sometimes feel like I need a lower range to get up some steep and rough tracks. That's probably my main reason for the change on a small bike. The compromise though is that the top end speed is lower which can be a pain (maybe even dangerous on a highway) on a bike that get has limited top speed anyways. I'm also thinking about a bike trailer for transport to/from but I also like to generally ride to where-ever. On road I want to be geared harder so I can go faster but old 250's don't have the grunt to manage that anyway so I'm back to the original sprockets. A bigger bike is really the answer for that. If you like tinkering and can get the sprockets, give it a go. Gordo