neversaydie

A good rider training school will have all of the contacts that you need for any advanced training. Once youve got your CBT and had a few months riding experience, ask at your local library to borrow the Police Motorcycle Riders Handbook. Invaluable.

You MIGHT just have to do it twice, depends upon the contamination, the first one will be like a flushing out rinse.

Sounds like its a dry chain, and too tight. Should tell you in the owners manual how to set the chain tension. Its normal for a drive chain to be looser/tighter at some points during 1 revolution of the chain. Adjust the tension at one of the slackest areas, make sure that the adjusters are equal, count the numbers of bars/indicators on the moving part when adjusting, so that the rear wheel is parallel to the front wheel, When youre happy with that, check the operation of the rear brake and adjust if reqd, it may have moved out of adjustment as the rear wheel was moved. And before all of this, clean and lubricate the chain, you should be able to do it with it on the bike. DO NOT CLEAN THE CHAIN WITH THE REAR WHEEL IN THE AIR, THE BIKE IN GEAR AND UNDER POWER

A quick and easything to do would be to change the oil. Change it for the exact type and quality that is syas in the owners manual and nothing else.

0.1mm = 4 thousands of an inch differnce between 0.08mm an 0.12mm is 0.04mm, which is less than 2 thousands of an inch If you can get a 0.10mm shim to pull out from between the adjusting screw and the valve stem with just a little drag then youve got it right, the same will do for both inlet and exhaust.

DD, if you wish to put crash bars/fender trims saddlebags etc on your bike, dont worry about any loss of performance, youll hardly notice. Im saying nowt else on the subject as i fail to understand the logic behind some other comments Good luck with bike, looks a nice one

No doubt the bobber brigade will say otherwise , but yes, it saved my front fender from damage last year in a slide, no damge at all. Some scrapes on the trim that I touched up with chrome paint, but otherwise did the job

Mine still topped 70 with crash bars, saddlebags, front fender trim, bar risers, and a pocket full o loose change Theyre great first bikes, reliable, good build quality, economical, and comfortable. Use it, look after it, service it, and youll likely be able to pass it on to someone like yourself so they can learn to ride, without losing any money, they hold their price well if in good shape

No they are an aftermarket addition, just like the front fender trim in the photo. Mine were taller, approx level with the bottom of the fuel tank Dont let the bobber brigade put you off. Ask em how much faster their bikes go

Id say if you got flames at the rear cyl, then its actually firing Air filter box jerking, could that be back pressure from one or both cyls ie valves not seated.? I still say while youve got the tank off, check the timing and check/adjust the valve clearances before you take the carb off, its not difficult to follow in the service manual. Process of elimination, make sure the mechanicals are working correclty first

9 till 4? I think last time I did those hours was 44 years ago at school

Thanks Morph. I toyed with buying it back from the insurance co, both for selling parts on and restoring. Couldnt find tank/exhausts at reasonable price second hand anywhere, and new were astronomical. Parts I may have sold on for reasonable cost were the ones shagged on the bike. There wasnt much left of it to make enough back on. Im still pissed off cos it was in mint nick

I meant that the fuel cock has to be in the "prime" position. There should be a little arrow on the handle, the arrow needs to point to the right as you look at it. Thats the prime position. Valve clearance procedure is on pages 3.6 to 3.9 in the service manual. If youve got the tank off, it would pay to check them, and as youll be looking at the timing marks, it may/may not show somethin not quite right timing wise.

Ive still got the Viggie, but I need (want according to the charming and lovely woman I have been married to for 32 years) another dragstar for the commute. The 125 was great for that, but Im thinking Ill keep an eye out for a good 250 xvs this time. (when the home climate is a little more favourable)

Are the plugs wet with fuel?Confirm plugs sparking Have you primed the fuel supply? Checked the valve clearances? Black rubber manifold to the carb sealed properly? Air filter in (clean one)

Yep, me 2

A quick one, check that the right plug leads are connected to the right plug

Im missin something here. Whats a GPS tracker do, tell you where you are?

Hi Jimmy,Id be inclined to swap over the leads to the battery ie red to neg/black to pos and see what happens. Think of it as a water pipe system, electrons become water flowing through a pipe, swap the pipes over, water flows on the opposite direction. I think thats how dc motors work

Yeah, right. and wheres all this bloody string they keep on about that ties it all together, i cant fuckin find any when I want some. an if the universe is full of microwave radiation, why do I stil have to shove mi dinner in a metal box to cook it?

Lifes so much easier when you can read a map

Dont ride with your foot on the gear shift pedal, keep your foot on the rest until you wanna change gear

No doubt youll get the usual differing opinions on this, its cropped up here many, many times. In my view, the benefits are neglible. A standard bike should reach 70mph, cruise at 55 to 60. Go down a tooth on the front sprocket, and top speed will increase to perhaps 75mph but engine will be screaming at you to slow down, acceleration will be sharper. Go up a tooth on the front, slightly slower acceleration and top speed 65 mph but at less revs. Anything else aint worth the effort for a couple of mph. If you wanna go faster, then a sportier bike is required Reading marky boys story, hes gained 3 to 4 mph perhaps. Is that significant enough to warrant the work?

Thanks, I'm sure I'll be fine. Did the tyre go quickly or lose it slowly?

Yeah, I'm fine thanks, looking to get back to work next week after a month off. Must have gone up in the air and come down on back and head, no sliding, no bones broken, just bruisin where my internals hit the rib cage at 30mph Just pissed off about the bike