neversaydie

Negative terminal on the battery

Check that the cable is still connected at the lever via the nipple (hooks into the lever), and at the engine end, should be another nipple type piece that hooks into the arm. Pull the clutch lever in while watching the arm at the engine end, does it move when you pull the clutch lever in?

The fuel has to be going somewhere if you dont think its being ignited Any on floor? Does it drain out the syringe even if the bikes not running and fuel tap on? Combustion chamber full of fuel? Air filter soaked? No leaks between carb intake and outlet?

I'm with Tommy, whatever you buy (and it appears cost will be a major factor), it will be unrecogoniseable save for the motor by the time youve butchered it SOoooooooooo, buy a decent 1100 or 750 Virago, there cheap enough, bullet proof motors, plenty of parts around

Ebay, there been a couple of sets on this wweek , might still be on

Not many Radian owners on here, but a lot of componenets shared with the FZ/FJ/XJ models of the same era I think they're cracking little bikes, nippy as chuff once above 4500rpm, top 120mph with ease. With decent rubber on, good handling too See someones already swapped out the rectangular headlamp Points to watch - keep the caplipers/pistons clean, can seize if ridden in bad weather often - front fender fragile at the edge where the spreader plate abuts the profile change - vacuum operated fuel tap reliability iffy - clutch cut out switch can bend and stick

2 wooden wedges, crack nipple open, push wedges in opposing each other

Leave the xv250 out. Dragstar 650, Virago 750, late 1990s, should get somethin decent for around 2k. Plenty of options for carrying stuff too, bags/boxes etc for both types

Check your messages steve

allensperformance.co.uk supply parts for mikuni, helped me sort my virago carbs a while ago, may have the info

I think not While ever there is oil/gas to be extracted/sold, we will be forced to consume it

I made it as far as 2.55 Shite

62k without a service Gotta be a typo

Description sounds right then, "sure strike nail hitter" , hit both nails at once

and if if every car owner had a horse, we wouldn't be able to move for shite keep the lawn trim though

Have a look at the carbtune website. aslo plenty of videos on youtube. I might venture to suggest that carb stripping and overhaul is not a job for a beginner, but the good folks on here will offer much sound advice

It doesn't matter what alternative/yet to be discovered sources of energy, they will still be in the control of vast multi national companies, whose intention is to make as much money for as little of the commodity as they can get away with. Same with anything, remember the food mountains?. Rather than drop the price to encourage people to buy and eat the stuff, they buried it all to keep the price up. Same with the milk, poured down the drains. Limiting supply means maximum profits. Use less and the price goes up to cover the loss of income. Use more and the price goes up to stop you buying it. The energy market is a huge cartel

Its not just the multinationals at fault here, our own govt stick vat at 8% on fuel, then tags on the cost of the inefficient "alternative" energy developments to all our bills as well Privatisation did for us all

FZX750?

Sorry, cant help

An early 535 has a range of approx 102 miles. 89 on models range was around 165 miles as capacity went from 1.9 to 3 gallons, which is good range. so id say go for an 89 on tank. tank from a smaller model may only give longer range as its pulling less mass

Check your tyre condition (front and rear), squared off tyres can contribute to the twitch. Its noticeable when you ride over those joins in the road surface that lie in your direction of travel, you have to ride over them when changing lanes etc. The join erodes quickly and can leave deepish grooves in your direction of travel. I've found it best to pas over them ASAP rather than ride in them for any distance Its poor quality road repairs