neversaydie

Thats rotten luck Jimmy Ya still got 2 kidneys?

Leave the fuel cock on The cock operates buy using the vacuum created by the engine, the vac pulls the piston in the cock into the open position, allowing the fuel through to the engine. Engine not running, no fuel flow Is it pissing oil, or is it pissing fuel, your statement isnt clear, if one or the other where is it/they leaking from? For tank removal, key in the seat lock and remove the seat, undo and remove the bolt at the back end of the tank, lift the back end of the tank a couple of inches, then pull the tank directly backwards. The front f the tank locates on 2 round rubber bungswhch are fixed to the frame. They may well be tight to pull off, work the tank sideways a little at a time to break any crap holding them in. Be patient. Careful not to pull any of the pipes off the fuel tap Once the tank is free, chock it up a few inches with a piece of wood, make a note of which pipe comes from where/goes to where on the cock, then disconnect them Dontdo it with the engine on If your cock is good, it shouldnt leak, it it is thats your problem, seal kits are available, but many folk over the pond simply replace the cock with a straight on/off/resrve type. If you do that, dont forget to blank off the vac connection on the engine rubber Good luck

Depends on the end use. If you want a daily ride, then a jap late 70s through to late 80s, usually plenty of spares available unless you buy a rarity. +1 with all of the other comments regarding reliabilty etc

Big Business continues to waste the planets resources

Thats dahrn sarf If you still want to borrow, I could meet you part way, say Leicester forest East Services

I told you last year, its spring when my tortoise emerges. No sign yet

If you havent got a spanner to get the plug out, how'd you get it in?

If youre struggling, Ive got one of them you could borrow. Where abouts are you in the Middle of Middle England

I think its basically the same motor as on the FJ, FZ, and YX models. Thing to do is start looking at the simplest and cheapest possible faults - plugs/air filter/ filter in the fuel tank, is it a vac operated fuel tap - if so check the carb rubbers for leaks or poor fit. Cant remeber if theres a fuel filter in the fuel tap - check that too. Fuel tank air vent clear/? Low compression. Valve clearnaces. Ethanol in the fuel? Clutch slipping Easy things first before you pull the carbs to bits Good luck

I fear one of us may be embarrased soon

Hats off to you for pulling it off

Well done mate

Well done Sparky

No, dont ride with your foot hovering over the brake pedal. Its normal to ride with the ball of your foot on the footrest, when you need to brake, just move your foot forward, its likely then that your heel will be on the footrest The hanging pipe will be either from the fuel tank or the battery, nothing to worry about Double check that the foot pedal is located correctly on the spiled shaft, sometimes there is a mark on the splined shaft that should line up with the split on the pedal spline

Air Induction System? Mixture Control valve? All to do with reducing emissions I think, and reducing backfiring during thottle off

Wow, thats pricey. Glad you got sorted though My own preference is for the alloys, no rust, easy to clean, no risk of spokes pinging, better in this climate

just a point here regarding riding technique, it is bad practice to ride around with your foot resting on the rear brake pedal. Forgive me if im wrong, but i get the impressiion thats what your doing from reading your comments. There is usually a set distance in the owners manual for adjusting brake pedal height relative to the footrest I think Airhead is right, that split pin looks like it secures the footrest pivot pin. If you follow the brake pedal back, you should find that it clamps onto a splined shaft. There should be a lug attched to it, the lug will rest against then head of a screw/bolt. Pedal height is normally adjusted here, but you may also have to adjust the brake pedal light switch (the one with the wires and spring attached) so that the rear brake light comes on when you press the pedal. Check the manual for the correct pedal height first

Never heard of it. Could it be the emissions canister? or the fuel tap?

Yep, bike rack at work soon emptied again, save for mine and the spuncky lass on the scoot, shes not missed a single day this winter

Is the backfire when you close the throttle?

Granby Motors, Yambits

I think Id be inclined to strip it first, then see what parts I may or may not require. Try googling for minimum clutch plate thickness. Thats what I did when I did mine late last year, took the parts list to local yammy parts supplier (I always do that with critical/internal parts), you can buy crap off E bay too easily. It might be as dt says, just an oil jobee, or thust bearing

West Yorkshires Finest, you can do it

Looks to me like youve had good value from the pads, changin them at the right time. As for the "spindle", Id guess that any bike ridden all year round would have the "spindle" in that condition. Most important though are the condition of the seals and bearings, a shitty looking "spindle" can be expected to an extent. Grouchy, youve really got to up your game mate:fingerwave: