neversaydie

Must be possible to check the voltage coming from the speed sensor, with the wheel off the deck, spin the wheel?

Forget him, youll just wind yourself up if you dont. All part of growing up Im afraid. Your lass will get over it in time, youve just got to tough this out with her. Been there a few times with my two. Worst one was clearing the flat the eldest had put so much into, the stuff theyd bought together, and getting her settled back at home. If your strong for her, she'll be ok.

Use something else, fuel hose for example?

and indeed they are. 30mm up and 30mm back only problem is I cant upload a photo, even though the camera is on vga quality

Aye, but the manual also says "turn the fuel cock on" (from an off position) Air filter clean? Plugs correct type and gap? Getting a good spark when you first fire it up? If it is a vac cock, isnt there a filter inside it?

Before you spend owt, Ill have a trawl in the mancave, theres a chance the old ones of the Dragstar may still be in there.

Good for you Groucho, best of luck with it

Its ok, dont mention it

Im with Slice, ape hangers on a 125? Come on! Slice is dead right. Poor bike control, and damned uncomfortable. There is a lot of adjustment on the stock bars, took me a while to find the best position for me, I fitted combined up/back raisers cos Im a shortie too, perhaps 30mm up and the same back. No problem with cable lengths. Cant comment about the pipes. You might be lucky, you might not. Personnally speaking, I loved the sound of the stock pipes, doof doof doof doof HHs make it sound harsh

Nope, positions are: arrow pointing 6 o clock = ON. Arrow pointing 12 o clock = RES. Arrow pointing 3 o clock = PRI Fuel Cock: This motorcycle is equipped with a negative pressure fuel cock. The fuel cock supplies fuel from the tank to the carburetors while also filtering it. The fuel cock positions are explained as follows. ON: With the fuel lever in this position, fuel flows to the carburtetor when the engine is running. Turn the fuel cock lever to this position when starting and riding. RES: This indicates Reserve. With the fuel cock lever in this position, he fuel reserve is made available. Quickly turn the fuel cock leveer to this position if you run out of fuel while riding, otherwise the engine may stall and will have to be primed (see PRI). After turning the fuel cock lever to RES, refuel as soon as possible and be sure to turn the fuel cock back to ON. PRI: This indicates PRIME. With the fuel cock lever in this position, the engine can be Primed. Turn the fuel cock lever to this position when the engine has been allowed to run out of fuel. This sends fuel directly to the carburetor, which will make starting easier. After the engine has started, be sure to turn the lever to ON (or RES if you have not re-fuelled yet). For the life of me, I cannot remeber which is the OFF position, but if I ever left the tap in ON, the bike never started cleanly as I reckon fuel seeped into the crab while it wa stood. It was never a problem when I switched it OFF. Experiment by taking the fuel pipe off at the cock outlet and switch the cock positions, to be OFF you need no fuel seeping out

I only used to have to give mine 1/2 choke even in winter. Then ran it like that for 2 to 3 miles before shutting the choke off. If i recall correclty, doesnt it have a 3 position fuel tap? You need to turn off the fuel tap as soon as the engine is killed, or it could be flooding the carb. Another option is to take it back to the dealer, and say your not satisfied with the work. Yopu have to be specific with these people and tell them exactly what you want. If you just said to them, clean the carbs, thats all they will have done.

Take it back to the overhauler

Do a bit of google searching. Try searching for the carb manufacturers reference, or simply dt125r carb.

Mark up the 3 white white wires at one end 1-2-3. Continuity check them at the connector end and then mark them up 1-2-3, just to be on the safe side I dont actually think it matters, but that way your safe http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Same as their Volkswagens. They've been telling the authorities they have them, but they don't really

You not got a tape measure? With the dust shields in place, 207mm at the pivot. According to Google!

Yes. 14 Newton Metres I just typed "yq50 cylinder head nut torque" into google, and as if by magic, the Service Manaul for a yq50 appeared as first choice Took about 30 seconds, and Im old Technology eh

I'm there tomorrow. On the agenda: ACF-50. Leather winter gloves. Warm waterproof trousers. Shortie riding boots. FZ6 crash protection bungs. Half a dozen boxes of rubber gloves. Anything else that takes my fancy

Is it a vacuum operated fuel tap

Agreed. Backheeled into the long grass

Both my ols YX600 Radian and my present XV750 had/have these fitted. Im a fan of em. Id like to mod the FZ6 fro them. I originally thought that the timer was inbuilt into the relay, and I could just swap out the realy, but now I dont think thats the case, I reckon they pick up the signal from the speedo/odo, based on distance travelled after the relay is activated. A timer would simply switch off if you were stopped at the lights. Has anyone modded their bikes to fit self cancelling turn signals?

Id just re-tighten them for now, and hope that the seal wasnt disturbed

Id be inclined to check that the engine actually turns over first

and just make sure that your chain is not so slack that its hanging down onto the stand

If my memory is correct, the reg/rect sits lower down that, in line with the battery but lower somewhere. Wherever you mount it, try to keep it out of the road muck and shite/wet, and away from heat. I also think that the 4 bolts ate the cylinder head bolts, there may be another 4 lower down the head nearer to you. They need to be undone/retightened in the correct sequence and to the correct torque Oops, too late for that. That may have cocked up the gasket seal. Take a look at the chain too. It looks like the spring clip is on the wrong way around. The rounded/closed end of the clip MUST I say MUST face the direction of travel There are a number of good paints out there to do what you want, if its engine paint then heat resistant, each have their own supporters. I have to say, youre taking on a lot of work, that may cost you substantially more than the bikes clearly worth. Aftermarket exhaust arent cheap, paintwork and preperation are awkward and painstaking, and Ive nver understood why new riders the first they do is tear the bike down. Get it running as it is, (if its safe to do so, so of these bobber fellows are bodgers), get some miles under your belt, learn how the bikes run/handle/roadcraft. Then get rid and get something better OOh, and whatever you do, remember that the stock pipes and tank are made from Unobtainium, so be careful what you do to them