neversaydie

I shopuld think so. CMSNL have it as part no 4DN1811520 for 10 euros

First work is the battery. Make sure its charged up properly, holding its its charge, and not being overcharged when the bike is running. It needs to be topped up to correct level, and in good condition. Also check all connections etc to mnake sure they are dry and in good order You also shouldnt need choke to start a warm engine

Nice looking bike

First things first, start with the easy stuff. Take the plugs out and clean them, and set the correct gap. Note if they are sooty/wet etc. Make sure that the screwed metal ferrule is not loose on top of the plugs. Refit them as per the manual. Remove the air filter and clean it, if it dont come cleaner, then replace it. Make sure youve got the fuel tap in the correct position Make sure the choke switch is operating correclty Charge up the battery Check the rubber y shaped piece on top of the carb, if its split or loose itll affect performance

For the money, I think its good value. Its well made, the castors are very robust, and the finish is good. Comes with rubber mats for lining the drawers. Only downside was peeling of the labels, pain in the ass

Been looking to buy a tool cabinet since I finished work, had nowhere to put all my tools that I brought home other than in cardboard boxes. Spoted a couple that I might have bought, then spotted this this afternoon on the Halfords website. http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/storage/tool-chests-cabinets/halfords-industrial-6-drawer-ball-bearing-tool-cabinet Nipped down to have a look, decent quality, good size, and the bonus is the top box comes with it, for less then the cost of the cabinet. I reckon thats a good deal, bought the deal, now in my garage waiting to sort the tools out

Filler, rubdown, re-spray? Or do you mean the rear drive unit?

Im sure its just a trick of the light

Have a look at the RIDERSCAN rear view mirror

I'd try fettling them corroded areas with the wirewheel/dremmel. Then try to match the paint up up, I recall hammerite do a very similar grey/silver in a small pot. Once dry, wipe them down with a acf50 rag. If its chrome, buy a small tin of the spray chrome finish, spray a little into the lid, then brush it onto the areas reqd. Then same again, acf50 rag Dont get it on the brakes or disc/s

I have to draw a line somewhere, or I'll be expected to fit it too

There you go, 30 seconds work http://www.motorcycleraceparts.co.uk/arrow-exhausts-and-silencers-uk/?find=yamaha-xt125x-2009-223208

Its the most annoying offence. I dont think the deterrent is tough enough for offenders. Id like to see anyone caught given max points straight away. Any further offence and its licence gone for 6 months. Technology has/is providing too many distractions

Aye, not been able to get on since the start of the weekend, appears to be working ok now

It may be that the original finish has dulled due to the heating/cooling cycles of the exhaust system. Surface rust removal usually requires an abrasive of some kind. Depending on how bad it is, but I use a dremmel type rotary hand held and a small wire wheel. Polish up with the polish of your choice

Does the key turn in the seat lock. Is the latch mechanism free. Check to see nothing is obstructing the seat from sitting on its locations eg connectors etc. Is it the correct seat for the bike, with the correct height of rubber pads fixed to the underneath of the seat Lovely bikes the Radians. Wish Id kept mine

No matter how strong you are, you can't stop a motor that size from turning till you knock it off Lucky to keep his arm, if the shaft had been larger dia, he'd be gone

Just make sure theres a gap when the bag is loaded

Just put the one you took off back on?

Never heard of them Look here http://www.getgeared.co.uk/Motorcycle_Luggage/Motorcycle_Leather_Bags Type in the bag makers names, then look to find the best deal Be careful, an awful lot of bags etc are made in plastileather, be sure you know waht you are getting for your money. Dont forget to factor in the correct size and type of fixing to the bike, normally some kind of strap/saddle that fits over the rear mudguard, also locking fixtures to stop someone just picking the bags off the bike when parked up. You may also need saddlebag supports, to prevent the bags rubbing on the tyre/wheel etc. Decide what you want, then shop around for the best deal. Another alternative is to get yourself off to the larger bike shows (newark this weekend), there are normally some good deals to be made if you can haggle

This is my regime, I dare say others do it differently Bikes on centre stand. Hose the bike all overto try to wash off loose shite etc Spray a section at a time with Muc-off, or something similar. Try to get into all the hard to get at areas. Dont let it dry on the bike. Agitate it with soft brushes to loosen of the road crap. Pay attention to the rear shock Hose that section all off. Repeat for another section of the bike, until the whole bike is washed. Compressor on, and blow off all of the water from the bike Once dry, wipe over with clean dry cloths. Bin liners over the wheels and brakes Acf50 the bike, I do paintwork/chrome, the lot, including switches/under the mudguards etc Lube the chain, if its got one Check all electrics work On the first run after apllying Acf50, any excess will smoke off, so dont worry about grey smoke too much Time wise, takes me around 6 to 8 hours. I dont mind, I find it relaxing, and it helps me keep em well maintained I only do each bike a couple of times during winter

Cool bike, not sure about the custom paint though. looks in good order. I rode my old xvs125 through several winters, not a sign of rust on it upto the point it got written off in a smash. Also rode the xv750 virago all through winter of 2014-15. No rust anywhere on it. Both bikes were well treated with ACF-50 in the autumn and used daily. Washed 3 or 4 times during the winter, then re-coated with ACF. If you choose to do the same, wash and thoroughly dry the bike first. ACF comes with a neat little spray bottle these days. Cover the wheels/brakes with an opened out bin liner, warm the fluid up (hot air gun/gas hob) as it thins it out and makes it easier to spray. Use the spray on the hard to get to areas, engine cooling fins/under tank etc. For the rest of the bike, use a rag to wipe it on. A little goes a long way. Safe on electrics/plastics, use common sense to avoid seat/brakes etc. 1 litre should last you a couple of years

Not familiar with the bike, but Ive looked at the vid and the battery sounds weak, id have expected a good one to have turned the motor over with more gusto than that. Id first check connections/earths etc, then make sure its fully charged and filled to the correct level, with correct specific gravity.

bloody hope not. Great local service, always able to get me parts, tons of knowledge

Same happened to me a couple of years ago on my XVS125, at 20 mph. The bike was a write off. I think its highly unlikely that the bike has not sustained serious damage in a 35mph impact, with the bike hitting the side of the car. I hope youve been lucky. Petrol tanks and exhausts are practically unobtainable Check with the local council to see if they have any video cameras there that may have recorded the incident, or shops with cameras that may have seen it, or got her plate no