neversaydie

Not enough. Charge it up, needs to be 12.5/12.7, no less, and holding that steady

You'll go blind

Charge the battery up fully before doing any testing. You need to know you have a good battery before you fault find

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo. It'd be like givin em a blank cheque Take Drewpys advice, and have a look here http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Im inclined to think its a short somewhere, draining it overnight

Must admit, this thread made me look at mine on the fazer. Cleaned up and all working ok anyway, but now on the regular checlist

Never changed one on an XV125, but yes, it looks pretty straightforard. Looks like you may have to lift the tank to give yourself some headroom, after undoing the jubilee clip. Chock it up with some wood. Then remove the fasteners on the Y spigots. Be careful, dont strip them, be patient. Make sure to fit the new one right way around so the small brass spigot is in the right place (take photos before removing the old rubber), clean the mating faces up, fit the new one. Cant find the torque figure for the bolts, so use your noodle on that one, but dont overtighten £47.96 from Wemoto, shop around you may find one cheaper, but not from China, someone on here replaced theirs some years ago with a Chinese one and it didnt fit

Acommon problem with these is the Y shaped rubber connector on the carb, these go brittle with age and crack, causing incorrect mixture. Have a good look at it for cracks/splits etc. and make sure it is fitting correctly onto its spigots

The female section normally is a tight fit, or has slots/sawcuts down the length, so that when the clip is tightened, the cuts close up onto the male section. Its also typical I believe, to use an exhaust paste to tkae up any gaps/space between the two mating sections. Fit the paste before mating the sections, then tighten up the clip. The paste normally hardens off when the system gets hot, and seals the two sections

I fitted a screen on my Virago not long after I bought it, to divert the blast over my head, it was uncomforatble at speed, particularly in winter as the cold air is straight on your chest. Big improvement, and a little less noise from the wind too. I set it so that Im looking over the top of the screen rather than through it

Looks like a Virago Dont let Noise see it Great job though, love it. Why not try selling a couple, see how it goes, supplement the pension

Oil appearing to be dripping from that area could be due to throw off from the chain. Have you oiled it recently?

Heres one of several currently for sale on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZ6-FZ-6-600-FAZER-5VX-2004-2006-FRONT-LEFT-MAIN-FAIRING-PANEL-TRIM-/141911482133?hash=item210a955f15:g:vaYAAOSw9N1Vms4j Not hard to find really

Topnys right, I recall on my old xvs125, one was left hand threaded and one right hand. Cant remember which is which, youll need two spanners, hold one of the nuts while turning the other.

Nope, the Haynes doesnt include the xv250 eaither

Dont know where he lived, not filled in the location Haynes manual not available for the xv125 Spike, do you have an owners manual?

When's Bob A Job Week this year?

Id start by checking all connections etc, particularly the earth connections, they need to be spotless clean for good contact

Well done. Youve got to have lots of patience with stuck bolts

Yes, you should be ok with parrafin. Ive used it for years for flushing out geraboxes/cleaning chains etc

Never had any slip on my Virago, always used Silkolene Super 44 10W40

Ive spent days in the past removing siezed bolts. I know youre stuck for time, but ive always found Plusgas the best release agent, soaked the bolts over a few days, tried turning them both clockwise and anti a touch at a time, heat then soak again. If you do get them to start to move, turn them back an forth and oil them as you undo

Thats correct, the Virago manual does not include the 125. I ve set you a personal message

I suspect that a main Yam dealer full service would be oil change, air and oil filter change, and clean or change the spark plugs. They will also check visually things like brakes etc and report on those, and you are likely to be charged at least £50 per hour plus parts. The tasks above are bog standard and could/should be done by all but the most inept. Nice simple work to start with

Confused Is it 2010 or 2016? Differnce in your info As above if its 2016 If its 2010, sounds like poor connections somewhere. Check em all, make sure there clean and dry