Rapco

I guess (and surely hope) you have resolved the problem with your dt, but if not, check this. you said the flywheel was loose. the chance are great that you already destroyed the wood-roof(half-circular, moon-key call it like you want) by turning the engine over with the flywheel not tightened enough. That happened to me twice since the idiot who owned the bike before me stripped the shaft where the flywheel is bolted. So you would need a new key, and they are pretty *****ing hard to find in the xact mesure. I had to buy 100 in one shoot! If you flywheel is out, the timing will be wrong, and the bike will kick back when it want the kickstarter, since it not firing at the proper time. After that, check your timing, which can be setted by the point gap(i dont remember the exact gap number) and the thing should run. so as i said, the thing to check is the flywheel woodruff key! And after that set the timing and you'll be good! Rapco! by the way, in which part of canada do you live?

haha yeah that already done, i removed all the wire except for the kill switch! I done all the wire one y one to make sure one was not needed to run the engine( as on my puch if the horn is not connected, the engine wont start).I'm happy with this bike. It's really well done. PLs the engine really pulls! the last remaining thing to do is work my clutch. Its seems that it's slipping. I tried to set something with the pushrod screw but that didnt worked... I'ts odd, wen you screw it, the is like 2 time you feel like you are touching the rod... maybe the cluth disk are worn to... Got to work on that! If you have any hint or advice, there welcome! thanks again! Rapco! by the way, just for curiosity, do you run your dt synthetic 2 stroke or just regular? I found out that with synthetic it was a just too smokey!

thanks again ! that being done, do you know if i did not putted back the 27 and 28# item , would it weaken the fork/triple clamp? http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7079sch217765 Because my headlight is burnt, i dont want to buy a new globe and i only use my bike for trail/offroad. So would it be safe not to put them or not, meaning that the fork would be weaker? thanks!

oh yeah and by the way, do you know how much 10w30 oil i should put in each fork? I read 120cc somewhere and 126cc another place... so hoe much should i put in? thanks again!

******* ARGHT! you are sooooooo right! shit it cant figure out why i did not figured it out! thank you soo much! hey, i owe you one! thanks again!

Here you go i have the picture. Acutally i dont it's it the piston, take a look at it. it's the part on the left. Those two on the right go on the top of the suspension springs. my guess is that it goes this way: And like that if fitted with the inner tube. I have the piston inside the inner tube, i just did not removed it. The fact is that if i put it like on the last picture, if the suspension bottom, it's the piece that is gonna be banging inside the inner tube, right on the piston. If i dont put it, it's the inner tube bas that will hit directly the bottom. Could the inner bent/broke hiting the bottom? and could the inner piston break is that piece come banging in? this is what it's like when the "unknow part" is pushed against the piston inside the inner tube. You also lose travel with that piece. - - so what do you think and suggest? should i go without it or with only one on(i doubt)... also how much oil do you put in it? 120cc? thanks!

hi i got a 1974-75-76 dt175( i thinks it's a 76 but cant tell for sure) and i had to dismantle the fork because of a leaky seal. It has been time that it is now sitting in my basement and i want to put it back togeter. Put now one piece is missing... or not! thats the point! click tis link, it's the part # 11. i only have 1 for the 2 fork. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7081sch227985 the piece is exactly like the #9 but smaller, and it seems to go under #3...on this one http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7079sch217765 (on this schematic, the inner tube is splitted in 2... it's not supposed to be?...huh?) the piece is not the inner piston, it's a small metal cylinder just like #9... should i put only one in one fork or not at all? what does it doe(i think it's purpose is when bottoming out...but then again, when you'r bottomoing, somethin' got to hit!). This would mean that if that thing is used when bottoming the fork, the inner tube is getting the bang inside, not at the low tip of it? thanks again for your replies! RAAAAAAPCO!

is the bike included with it?

i think the neddle is a resoneable guess... I dont think its an airleaks . It might be the whole cylinder assembly in the carb that is to low, maybe more than the needle. Try adjusting it. oh yeah, and clean the whole carb!

hey ! sorry to insert in this topic but does the 2 fork legs are identical? They all have exactly the same part in putted in the same way? because i've got problem with mine, which i dissasembled a few time ago and i can remember where everything goes and it seems that one piece is missing... I only have one cylinder cut on the lenght(similar to the one on the springs agaisnt the top bolts) part number 11 in this link http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7053sch216345 Its not this one, i have those to but its more like number eight. Anyway, is this piece an important one( i think its when you bottom the suspension, the nner chrome leg wont be destroyed hitting the bottom, the little piece will. What do you think? thanks!