Rapco

hi, i have a 1976 or 74 not sure anyway dt175 for sale in montreal. you could buy it for pieces or for having another bike. the engine runs well, i dont know the compression but if you are serious i can manage to find someone with the tool to dot it. anyway. this is the link: http://www.montrealracing.com/forums/101-A_Vendre_Moto_/669955-Yamaha_DT175_ENDURO_TRAIL.html new fork seals, flywheel, brakes, sprocket and chain, contact points. removed a lot of thing since i used it for trail. engine start up in 2kicks. asking 500$ nego. a friend is giving me 350$ for it, waiting to see if someone will be giving me a bit more. anyway thats the only way i can help you! Rapco

yeah me too. that why i always think to close the valve. rapco

you might have bought a set that doesnt fit your engine or the dealer sold you the wrong set. When i bought mines, on ebay, i had to grind a part of them since the flywheel could not rotate because of them. anyway, you seems to know what you are doing, so i might be just wrong set. Rapco

This bike is soo clean and nice gray tone! congrats! Rapco Proud dt owner!

i think i will just buy a rectifier/regulator that they fit on pit bike and install it on my dt. thanks. Raaapco!

hi everyone, im just back from trail riding with my friend. he has a ty175 of 1978 or so and i have a 1976 dt175. he have headlight and i dont, so its sucks at night the fact is i have no headlight since the last one burned out (the headlight and bulb only make one) and i would like to just replace the set with a new one. the thing is i run the dt with no battery, so i should i set my thing so that i dont blow my bulbs. please dont tell me just to put a resistor in the line, what wattage and 6v bulb should i use and inline with what resistance. thanks ! Raapco!

seems like i have a 1974 dt175 not a 1976. what the difference are you saying: the number of steel plates is different: 1974 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7079sch221877 1976 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m7081sch226907 this i why i was not able to lay the plates as you already said it. anyway thanks for the help! rapco

hi, i was just about to reassemble my new clutch in the basket when i realised that the steel plates are not round thing. they are shapped in a circular but not symetric way.(they are not bent, its their shape) my question is: how to i install them? is it a random order or do have to put them all in the same position over the clutch plates? i didnt wanted to put i back in case i would do something wrong and break all. any way, im putting it tomorrow night all together so any response in the next 15h are greatly appreciated! thanks Rapco(proud owner of a dt175 !!) ps(is there anything i need to know else than that?)

that what i thought, thanks. by the way this was on a 1976 honda xr125. all these trouble are why i prefer 2 strokes, like my dt175. anyway thanks, the rtv gasket did not hold, so we will just try to make push the seal more on the shaft. thanks Rapco

maybe its worn, but i'm sure the pump is pushing enough oil to the head, so thats not the cause... what easiest way of fixing it? there is some play on the camshaft(very little) i can push the shaft up, so that it is centered well on the seal, but if i let it go, it comes back down. There is no play, or heavy gap, the shaft just seem installed so that it point downward. anyway, how do i set this? Rapco

hey i've got a question. I am working on my friend bike on my free times, and he had the same problem as yours... the seal was worn and was letting a river of oil out of the point cover. So he bought a new one and we fitted id proprely(yes it was) but it leakead again. Main facts are: 1-I have put the seal the right way, in the right postion for sure 2-The seal is the good seal, right size and all 3-the crankcase is not pressurized since the breather is working proprely, i feel air on my leg when i kick the bike. the other main fact is: the camshaft is not aligned how it is supposed to be. By that i mean its not bent, is tipping a bit downside, causing pressure on the seal(on the down portion) and letting no pressure up, allowing oil to pass. I must repeat clearly that the camshaft is not bent, since when its turning is, not doing a circular motion, it is doing a regular, rotation around it center only. The thing is that the camshaft is pointing (always) downward. I do not know is it is because something is loose or whatever, but i hope some of you guy find an answer, as we have a riding session plan for saturday! can it be the timing chain that is to tight, pulling the shaft downward? i think it is an automatic tensionner... but the chain doesnt make any noise when the bike is running at all. we took the old seal, putted it back on the bike and putted some rtv high temp oil resistant silicone on it, gonna see tomorrow how it worked. any suggestions? thanks RAPCO!

hmmm, i think this is wrong. The stress on the engine depends mostly of how much you open the throttle. Meaning if you are wot at 6500 and at 10 000, the stress on the engine is pretty much the same. The stress would be different is you would stay steady at those rpm, then this would mean you would be half throttle to stay at 6500 and 3/4 to be at 10000. maybe the stress would be even harder at wot at low rpm, since the engine is have more pressure to push. Thats what at think. but it sure is true that reving hard the engine will put stress on it. correct me if im wrong.

hi, i have done my suspension a while ago, with new fork seal, but i just dont like the feeling. I put 10w30 oil. The front suspension is way to smooth, when it goes down and come up, it's slow and way to easy to push down. If i put mono-grade 30 weight oil, would that change a lot? My weight is 170lbs and the front fork suck. Would that help? thank you very much RApcO!

thanks alot! i live in canda, so guess the same as usa! but the number you gave me is the number for the sprocket or for the clutch? thanks Rapco!

thanks, thats what I thought, redo a size smaller thread, still in metric, bu than would not weaken the shaft, wouldnt it? ANd yes i was using a strap wrench but it had poor grip... thanks again Rapco

i think it should fit. i think but not sure the 74-75-76 have the same engine. but there seems to be different thing about the clutch plates...anyway. also, i replaced my flywheel on my 76 dt175 with a 74 one. The bike run, the 2 of them are identical. thats all i can say, RAPCO!

Hi me again! its all about my dt175 this time(not my JAWA...ir my puch..lol) and i was wondering if there was anything i could do do arrange the shaft that holds the flywheel. The previous owner(stupid) stripped it, but i can still screw the nut on it to hold the flywheel but i cannot force to much. As a result, I already have broked 2 woodruff key(pain in the *** to get that litlle piece, mine is in imperial, so its a bit smaller than the original metric, causing a little lose when fitting the flywheel). Anyway, the woodruff key is not a problem anymore, since i have a bag of 100 of them but, i want to be able to tighen hard the nut to hold the flywheel. any idea? Maybe like i could redo the theads for a smaller size, but i fear to weaken the whole shaft. There is alot of force on that shaft. And i dont want to unbalance the whole setting. Any other idea? And how hard (real specs) do you tighten the flywheel nut? and how do you hold the flywheel when doing so? thanks again Rapco Rider!

oh yeah and is the 1974 75 and 76 clutch plates the same? i think so but are they? and how do i know if my bike is a 74 75 or 76? I always assumed it was 76 but i just doubt of it. thanks again! Rapco

does any-one know where to find a good 1976 dt175 manual. i just bought new clutch plates for it and i would like to know some specs like how much torque should i put on the springs and whats the length they should be. Thanks Rapco Rider! ps: and about the sprocket, still no one knows?

oh yeah jawa power! or not! well its pretty nice, planning on restoring it this summer: ]Video of my jawa and me riding it past summer with a blown head gasket! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO51LRvwnnA jawa Notice the family is smoke like 3 times passing by! and the by the way, puch mopeds are the best around. They have bullet-proof engine and more than solid frame. but yeah the crash was pretty lethal. The front suspension got locked from it... haha! still no one that know how to have the number for the part?! Rapco!

yeah i just experienced that last week with a fried. We were riding both on a puch maxi at 55kmh when the chain exploded. It locked the rear wheel and sent us drifting for at leat 25 feet. We were not hurt, but it was a hell of a ride back home. Because we drifted sideway, the tire got out of the rim. yeah no shit. Dont want that to happen to me on my dt a 100+kph in the fields. thanks for the advice, even do i had to experiment it before ! Rapco

do you know what is the part number of the front sprocket or do you know how i could get it? because i doubt they will know for a 25+ years old bike. thanks Rapco

so you say i should get a good front sprocket? Since i dont find some on ebay, i will then be using my old one which is not that bad. I will follow your advice and I wont use the pair i just received. The problem on ebay is that all sprocket that could fit my bike are no the good number of teeth. Instead of the original 15-16 its 12-13 which is wayyy tooooo looooow! thats about it. If any of you have any other adive, or know other model that should have the same sprocket(i know the yz80 should) thanks, ps: i got full refund for the pair that didnt fit! great seller!

Hi, i just bough a pair of front sprocket for my 1976 dt175 on ebay but there seem's to be a problem: The sprocket is not as thick as the original, or as thick as the rear sprocket(that i also bought on ebay from another vendor). I suppose the sprocket will fit on the shaft but is it going to be ok with the chain?? I should ride a 428 size chain as original... Will my front sprocket just use prematurely or will it break? or will my chain break because of a smaller pressure point? there is a slack from side to side, is there chance that the chain skip out? Even the teeth seems(ARE) not as high... as you can see in these... the new front sprocket thickness is less a bit less (by 1/32) than 1/4" and the rear sprocket original size is thicket by 1/32 than 1/4", which mean there is 1/16 of difference. is this to much? I also forgot to ask, will the front and the rear mis-aligned? soooo, please help me! thanks!

man if you're bike overheat it will just die. The piston will seize, thats the worse case. I can also do little seizure, but no t get completely welded to the cylinder. If you're piston seize, you will know because the rear wheel will look and you will be sent flying over. But i dont know how you can know if it's overheating before it destroy it-self. Just dont stay full throttle in first gear for an hour, that all i can say. i know that four-stroke that over-heat do backfire. If you're does backfire, stop it immediately. There might be something to do with the spark plug, like move to a colder type. you might foul many more of them but you would have less chance of blowing a hole the piston. But again i'm not sure. Rapco