barkwindjammer

Wow nice find Pat, some crazy shit in there m8, a hundred zillion dollars worth

Bet you felt a wee bit out of place then-big change in the weather now, that good spell we had there has been brilliant

Here's a good link here Bob, press play near the bottom of the page Swap-ability-info

Looks like you lot had a great weekend, some lurvly old machines in that vid you linked Al, where there ANY Yams there ?

Best and simplest tip I got was to - 'sit up, lift your chin up so its horizontal with the ground and use your stomach and back muscles to support yourself-sit to attention', I had a habit of slouching over the bars, keep us posted, good news or bad

Welcome to the Y-O-C Colin-'a veritable nuthouse' good luck with the DAS m8

Why aye- welcome to the online version of 'one flew over the cuckoos nest' James

Drewpy has been thanked 4 times Barkwindjammers friend big Agnes felt empowered by this video and thanks Drewpy for posting it

Ola and welcome to the 'ward' Rui

You won't do that again Broonie or maybe you have in the past, but can't remember

Welcome to the nuthouse Shytot

Whoa Horsey ! have you tried rotating it by using a 'crack bar' on the sprocket nut ? you need to take this nice an easy-those bores and pistons have sat around a bit

Stop swearing I'm only trying to help out here, obviously the contents could be poured out into a glasses case then sealed up with the glasses inside, some duct tape would seal it.

Welcome to the on-line version of 'one flew over the cuckoos nest' Lee

That looks like a 'result' Foamster well done m8, and its 'pinned'-another Y-O-C Epic me thinks probably better hunting for another turbo unit (or a re-con if available), the bearings on that one are more than likely shagged, all in you cant go wrong at that price

Here's a solution here click this bit

Ok, sounds like there's a 'lock' somewhere, and yep you may get some bleed around the threads-your putting the system under pressure remember, the threads on the nipples might be worn-thats why I suggested getting new ones in an earlier post-thread tape (PTFE) will help. If I were you I'd be snapping Cynics hand off for his complete gubbins, you will be looking at doubling that price just for the 'master', then you've got the 'E-bay gamble' - good luck

Whats all this shouting ?, we'll have no trouble here !

Yep give it another go-and wear gloves as brake fluid is toxic, slow and easy is the way to go, leave the brake leaver alone too, the syringe should eventualy push the fluid all the way and fill the reservoir-even if it only is half filled then shut the nipple. job done Another tip I got from an 'oily jumper man' was to use a 'Ladies handbag buzzer' on the brake lines as this apparently shakes the air bubbles to the top, but I dont know what a 'Ladies handbag buzzer' is , and if I did I dont think I'd feel all that comfortable in the back garden, on a nice sunny day, using one to 'shake the bubbles', but if you know any ladies who may posess such a device then give it a go-and put up a post and some pics to let us see how you got on

Probably better to go and buy a 'hex bit' of the right size, it will probably only cost you a fiver from Halfrauds, or try and borrow one from an 'oily jumper man' if you know any

The syringe and bit of tube you bought are to assist in filling the system-and not a 'bleeding kit', this is where some confusion comes in 1 attach syringe to tube, dip end of tube in bottle of brake fluid and draw it up until full, hold tube pointing up and 'gently' purge it of air (there will always be a tiny air bubble at the end of the tube) 2 attach the tube to the bleed nipple (the bleed nipple should be open by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn only), open the banjo bolt a couple of turns, now squeeze the syringe (about 2mm, count to 10, and repeat, the key is to do this whole operation slowly) 3 repeat the gentle squeeze until fluid shows at the banjo end, now tighten the banjo, go back to the gentle squeeze again-fluid should fill the master cylinder and start to fill the reservoir. The back bleed method should really be called the 'back-filling' method, this method of filling the hydraulic circuit Helps to eliminate air bubbles from the other method of 'top filling' If you try to fill any slim vessel with a liquid/fluid from the top then air is introduced by the fluid 'glugging' down into it. Air is buoyant in a liquid and will try to 'climb' to the top. By filling from the bottom (slowly) the air will be pushed in the direction you want it to go-up After the system is 'filled' it still needs to be bled Which is Part 2 (tune in next Wednesday for the second episode) Hope this has helped-I need a lie down now

Hi and welcome to the 'ward' Paul

Your right Arthur-keep it spinney in the town-3rd or 4th mostly

Well done Foamster-are you going to do a (WIP)Work In Progress for us ?

Welcome to the nut house AHB