AndyDtr08

Thats what we like to hear! Don't forget to torque up the heads after running her!

Hi, your bike based on the "chamber,air" as called by yamaha, is a 1999 onwards.By this i mean the little air bottle on the side of the carb to airbox pipe. It was only featured on 1999 onwards bikes and some people claim it to be a restriction. Whether it is or not I can't say as I havnt experimted. If you click the link below it at look at the top right it will show all the bikes your bike could be based on that air bottle. http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=Z8K\68%3A%3E65555&uid=0 The fact that the engine in it is a 4BL is strange and if AirHeads was an import with a 4BL engine in then i guess yours is too, or someone has changed the engine at some stage. If it is a 4BL engine the oil pump cover should be more of a casing than a cover but then again if its a import who knows. The majority of parts are the same for the bikes and there were only subtle changes so I would buy parts based on it being between a 1999 and 2004 DT125R and if you are worried, jump on here and someone will help you out. Your main issue i would say is the frame though.

When my friend bought his 2001 it had a Big one exhuast on it with holes in the downpipe. I found a 1990 bike being broken on ebay and bought the Frame and exhaust from the bike. The Exhaust I gave to him to replace his holed one and when we were fitting the middle fitting hole ( where the pipe goes from expansion chamber to pipe, towards the silencer) was about an inch away from the captive thread on the frame. By this i mean if you had a long bolt it would go straight through, but would need a spacer between the exhaust hole and the mount on the frame. Does this make sense? I thought it could just be a bent exhaust but when i checked on AJ sutton, the exhaust from my 1999 bike is the same part from the first DTR up to 1998. If you click the link below and look at the "PRODUCT FITMENT" section to the upper right it shows what i mean. From 1999 on they are not listed as being suitable for this exhaust. DEP, Big one etc seem to list all theirs as 88-04 or some 88 onwards. I think this is because they use that springed joint at the manifold end which would allow the zorst to be pulled into place but not 100% sure. My DEP doesnt have that so i guess it wouldnt fit a 1999 onwards bike? hmmm

Good plan. check the air screw is intact! Haha. If not you can buy it here http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=3mb141040000&uid=0

You wont find parts by using the 3RM number. That number is on most DT125R's i beleive. The problem is that the bikes changed somewhat over the years. Most noticably in 1999 and then again in 2002 and then to the RE in 2004. If your bike has been used off road it may be a mish mash of parts. If you are completely re building it then you are in a better position as you can start from the ground up and choose what you want to put there. E.g Start with a fresh frame and base it around that. If you are going to re register it you'll need a frame number. I don't beleive the DVLA will issue you a logbook or registration without one. A new frame with a V5 fetches well over £200 on ebay as there are alot of people in your position with stolen bikes or bikes with the frame numbers mysteriously removed! Use sites like www.yamahamotorcylespares.co.uk and www.wemoto.com for spares. You can cross match them to see if they were only on specific years of DT's. The exhaust is one to look out for as I'm finding. It changes in 1999 and so later ones wont fit on the pre 99 models. Check for a part number on the exhaust or find another part that is on pre 99 bikes and not on the later ones and take the part number to Yamaha and ask for them to search what year bike it came from. Take a photo of the oil pump cover on the R/H engine casing. We can work out whether its a pre 99 engine to start with. Andy

Sounds good. I do quite fancy restoring an old aircooled DT but think that will wait until it is just that in the shed aside my running bike. Too many projects to take on another at the moment. It would be very "un dude"

Welcome to the forum. As Mark says Philippe form portugal is a good place for aftermarket plastic kits. Polisport Headlight are popular and are around 30-50 and are complete units with the headlight and plastic. The rear light/tail tidy you'll pick up on ebay. Indicators...original are about 12 quid each from wemoto or a full set of smaller aftermarkets are about 20-25 on ebay. clocks are expensive at around 40+ on ebay. As mark also said the DVLA will be you biggest hurdle without a V5. If you have a frame number its still a hassle. If you have a frame number and reg you can apply for a new v5 by filling out a v62 which you'll find with a google search and sending them 25 quid cheque. (It will take a while, I'm waiting for 3 at the moment and its been ages). If you do just have the frame number there is a way for getting a full HPI and the Reg ( which you can then use to get the v5) for £23 via a useful chap online. I'm currently putting a DT125R 1998 back on the road as you can see in the projects section. If you want any more info/ help i'll be happy to help. I want to keep as many of these bikes on the road as possible. Damn them for being so stealable! Andy

4BL is the start of the Frame and Engine number. It relates the the year of the bike. 4BL is 1998 for sure and i was also used for a couple of other years around then. The Frame number is located on the right hand side of the frame where the forks pass through. It should start with 4BL and match the engine number. If it has been removed there is no way of telling if the engine and frame are from the same bike. 3RM relates to part numbers for the bike. It won't tell you anything about the engine/frame. 90-96 was 3DB 97-98 was 4BL 99-2002 was DE031 2004 was DE061 That was taken from Aj Sutton (www.yamahamotorcylclespares.co.uk Also try www.WeMoto.com You really need to know your frame number although there would be other ways of working it out. I would imagine its 1997 or 1998 if it has a 4BL engine in it. It more than likely been stolen at somepoint though.

Powerband Crazy!

Oh it does indeed. With the issue i had with the last DT (86 LC that wouldnt spark) It's like music to my ears to hear it running. Hopefully it won't be too long where I'm in a position to get the plastics on. Thats my weakness. I want to see it completed in blue! Whats you current project?

Havn't read if anyone else has mentioned it but the Yamaha DT200WR or WR200 is a 200cc 2 stroke very similar to the DT. Can be seen in my signature. Go for around 1k on ebay. Under rated bike! 33bhp they are exactly i believe. I'm still yet to get mine running.

Lots of Fun and games today! Went out into the garage and first off was to notice the temperature sender unti in the top of the cylinder head was missing. Ok... no problem i'll just take one off another head. Oh it appears the thread in the cylinder head has been destroyed! Removed the 3MB Y-1 head and replace it with another 3MB but this time a y-3 for some reason. I'm not sure the differences. Might call Yamaha europe and ask for someone to clear it up. Well with the head back on I connected everything up and went to buy her a round of drinks. Filled her up with all the neccesary fluids and re fitted the exhaust. I still havnt sourced a good condition standard pipe to de restrict yet so am going ahead with the DEP full system for now. I put some Fire Gum on the holes in an attempt at a quick fix. I bought a spare tank on ebay for 10 quid including delivery (too good to be true). Although the seller claimed it was cean inside and only had surface rust on the underside of the tank, it was full of rust and a bee =/ and the surface that the tap bolts to was bent and so had to bend it back into place just to fit the tap without it pi55ing fuel. It was worthing it when this happened though! (Long video, not exciting, just to show it running.) I wasnt sure if the 2 stroke pipe was full and was too eager to bleed so chucked some 2 stroke oil in the tank with the fuel. The fire gum didnt stay and blew through when it was running. I also made good progress with the forks. I bought a "drain plug" key... ...meaning i could get a long bar on it and with the axle through to hold it still against the ground the bolt in the bottom that was holding me back came out. Had to stick a block of wood down the fork leg to hold the inner still whilst i undid the rest as stated in haynes manual but am all clear and ready to start re building now. Will be taking back the fork legs and re spraying them before the re build though. Got a Brake disc cover to re spray black soon too. Ordered 2 new clips for the rear hose where it hold to the swing arm. Oh also managed to test all but 1 of my 3 wire servos. All worked and the one i couldnt test was because it has been modified to a different connector. Next stage is to rebuild forks and calipers and get everything ready to go back on the bike. I'll be swapping the wheels over for my better set as seen in the photos. Work will be slow for a while as I'm working 2-10's for the next 5 days and I generally don't get up early. Working around this in the garage too at the moment and I have to get it cleared each night to get the car in so me being messy is unpopular! Night for now!

You use a WR125 for green laning? I thought they were more supermoto like things? Would have thought you'd be better off with a DT125 for green laning.

I would order the screw from Yamaha or even buy a replacement carb from ebay. It seems someone had tampered with your carb alot and is probably the main cause of your problems. Spend 30-50 on a nice condition one on ebay and have it apart, clean it, check jetting and then set up yourself to know its all correct. I beleive the air screw should be 1 and 1/2 turns out from fully screwed in. start with both air and idle all the way in. Then use the idle to bring the revs down to 1.5k Screw the air screw 1/2 turn ( this will bring the revs up) Screw the idle out again gently to bring it down to 1.5k Screw the air screw 1/2 turn more (now it is 1 turn out) Screw the idle out again gently to bring it down to 1.5k Screw the air screw 1/2 turn more (now it is 1 and 1/2 turns out and in its optimum position) You can now adjust the idle screw to whatever you want the idle engine speed to be ( 1- 1.5k i would guess) ***Check that 1 and 1/2 turns is the optimum setting but I have found that to run nicely*** When you say rounded? The air screw is a flat head screw, are you sure you are looking at the right one? If i get a chance I'll photo a carb and circle and label the two. The air screw is in a recess to the right of the idle as Airhead said. It's kinda 'down a tube'. If you think the air screw is not set right, avoid running the bike. Too much air will cause the mixture to be lean and the engine will run too hot and you'll hole the piston. Without being rude, if you don't know what you are doing, research it before you mess around or you'll learn the hard way.

Ok so I had the day off on Saturday and had planned to make some real progress. I left work at 22:00 on friday and was forced to go out for some birthday drinks for my brothers 24th. I ended up in a club drinking Jager Bombs and so Saturday was less than productive. I did manage to get over to WeMoto to pick up a brake piston and seals kit. They told me on the phone that if its online its in stock. They lied....it was out of stock when i got there and they have ordered one in. Can't get a 30mm piston and seals kit anywhere so reluctantly ordered. I also got a battery from there too. When I got home I re fitted the powervalve kit wrapped up the fuse in foil and connected car battery with jump leads to test the servo and wiring. The servo ran its setup which was like music to my ears! At this point my hangover seemed to kick back in again and I had to pack everything up and go and lie down. ...still no more progress on the forks front... Tomorrow is my only day off until next monday so hope to make some good progress ( no alchohol tonight so should be ok). May nip the exhaust over to a local garage and see if they can weld up the couple of small holes in the DEP. Will report back tomorrow evening with photos and updates

Cheers for the replies guys. I found it last night. The "band" i mean. Yeah alot of money for that i thought. I'll drill the broken bolt out of mine and clean it up. Expected it to be cheap. Ordered about 30 quid worth of bits from AJ sutton the othe night too. I have to say although they are easier than trying to explain to the vocal monkeys behind the counter of my local yamaha dealer what part i need, their service is less than good. If part of your order is out of stock and "could take up to 3 weeks to arrive" they give you the option of waiting or cancelling the order. I emailed them to explain I'd like the items that are in stock to be sent out asap and they replied with "do you want me to cancel to the order". I had to explain very simply tht I wanted the stock items now and the others to be sent later once they arrive. Hopefully they can grasp that concept but I wont hold my breath. The fuse I need as mine has blown and halfrauds only stock longer 10A fuses. Useless...

You mean tp upload to youtube? It has to transcode it into the right codec as you go. You can get as close as you can by putting it into mp4 format first but it will also take ages to upload as upload speeds are alot slower than download speeds. Then they have to process it and make sure its not pr0n!

is this not normal ? =/

Does anyone know what this is called or have apart number? Its the clouded/white plastic clip that guides the front brake hose down to the caliper and holds it to the fork leg. I need a replacement and can't find it on the parts manual/ diagram.

This sounds more like the rev limiter. You'll find the info on how to remove this with the wire behind the speedo if you have a look through this thread.

Briliant, will do so with mine i expect. Yeah Philippe i believe his name is. Very helpful indeed. I paid 173 for this lot:

Looking fantastic. Were your panels ordered from portugal via ebay? Did you encounter any problems fitting the engine casing on the oil pump. I have an new engine with it and would quite like to fit the later casing on.

Connect up the jump leads again and try and start it. Sounds like battery to me. Could be battery and just that it's flooding when you're trying to start it. Once you've tried it and it doesnt stard. Take the plug out and heat/dry it over the stove.

They are indeed all the same from 1988 to 2007 or 2008 whenever they stopped making them. If you find one on ebay get photos of any rust spots on the rim. Surface rust will easily clean off with peek or autosol and a toothbrush followed by buffing cloth. They always seem to come up very well. The bottom photo shows one side cleaned and the other as it was.

As said, looking good! Is it complete now or is this the stage you are at? I'm working on a DT125R too at the moment. My eventual plan is to start from the ground up with one of the frames I have. The current one will probably be sold once I've completed it to pay for the next one. Keep up the photos and info!