AndyDtr08

Only about 5-6 months late, sorry! Hi. Yeah I've been spening most of my time on the DTR forum. Should pop in here alot more often. Maybe that was a conversion. I've never seen a DT125R with an electric starter personally, only the E which I always understood to mean Electric. They had "electric" stickers on them i think. DT125 ran from 70's up to 1982 - These were aircooled ( were other versions like the 175 250 400) DT125LC ran from 82-87 and the LC stood for Liquid Cooled DT125R Ran from 88-2004 and its said the R was race but some say Road. DT125RE ran from 04-08 (?) and the extra E was for electric due to the electric start Then you have the 200 versions. DT200LC DT200WR ( WR stands for Wide ratio and is a very different bike to the DT125R) WR200 is the same bike as above but more like a competition bike with a plastic tank, no autolube and a few others. There is also a DT230 which is like the RE in styling with a 230cc engine.

Good project. Love the DTR's. As already stated the 89-97 models never had the powervalve system set up and just had the valve in the cylinder that was often turned 180 degrees as a restriction. The 97-99 models used the 3 wired version servo which also contains the power valve control unit inside and plugs straight into the loom. The 2000 onwards used a 5 wire version and a different cdi which housed the powervalve control unit there. I have a couple of 3 wire powervalve servos if you are interested. £65 delivered. Im clearing all my DT125R parts as well so if theres anthing youre after give me a message on here and ill pm you my number to conact me. I'm also trying to sell a DT125R 1989 model with everything there and running engine if you know anyone interested. would make another great winter project.

Which Pre 2004 had electric starts? I know of a few imports that did. French i think.

Lucky you were going slow and there wasnt ice under him or you at the time. Good idea to wear the cam. I'm gonna start weaing mine. Will work as proof for if there were any accidents.

Dont worry. Being a 2 stroke it will operate best at high revs and at low it will build up carbon desposits and the exhaust will be all coked up. A good blast will clear it through. Or you could take it off and clean with caustic soda. I personally would leave it. Wait until you are able to ride it. ensure you warm it up nicely and then take it for a good blat. It will probably clear. My DT125R 1998 chucked out mammoth amounts of white smoke on my first ride of it. Cleared nicely and now runs well. Might also be worth checking your oil pump settings. If you cna get a quick video or a few photos i quick succesion im sure people will be able to reassure you.

Haynes manuals really are very useful lol. Just have a look through and follow the steps. Basically i believe it says that onces you have the bike started, turn the oil pump by hand to full open for a while. It will prime the pipes and start serving oil to the engine. Read the manual though and it will tell you properly. It's all good asking for advice and help but read the manuak first lol!

Yeah cmon nev...get on with it, we're all waiting to hear this is running and finished

The liner wouldn't have enough to be able to and you'd probably get too close to the water jacket anyway.

Yeah likewise, thanks very much. Had no idea about that at all. I'd heard on the grapevine that you shouldnt mix synthetic and non synthetic but not told why and may well have done so in the past in fact. I guess I've just been lucky. I generally use Castrol "Racing" which is fully synthetic. I see Yamahalube is a lot cheaper but is part synthetic. How does that work? any idea? Sorry to hi jack.

I never knew that, whats the risk merv?

Down here on the South coast of england in Worthing, West sussex we had about 3 minutes of very light snow earlier today about lunch time. Other than that nothing!

A sports pipe will help. The pipe on your bike is full of CAT which will restrict it. You'll then need to re jet to suit. Upgrading the carb is an option and you dont need to worry about removing the pre mix as on that model the oil is fed to a stub on the inlet manifold. It was 1989 that it was last fed into the carb on the DT125R. Since they put the mikuni tm28ss on it went in through the inlet manifold rubber stub thing! If you do decide to upgrade the carb, the Delloto 32mm VHSA carb was fitted to the TZR 4DL which used the same engine but with some porting work done. That was the 33bhp TZR that yamaha italia made. The Belgarda. You'll have to change the inlet manifold but the Dellorto has an oil stub so you would feed to there. I have one for sale if you are interested but without porting work i dont know how much you'll gain. I also have a 35mm TMX mikuni carb from a 1989 YZ125 for sale on ebay at the moment. I'd start with a pipe though. My money would go on an Athena or a 3MB standard pipe from a 89-97 DT125R. They are easy to de restrict and give plenty of power.

Yeah there is no reason to "change" the two stroke oil. If you are going to though, just discconnect the pipe that goes from the bottom of the oil tank to the oil pump and drain it all out. Fill it back up with your good stuff and bleed it to clear the pipes of any other stuff left in there.

If it has the reed valve induction built into the cylinders its going to be an 80's or earlier barrel i would have thought. What are the numbers on it?

I'm pretty sure it will. I know of someone who has fitted the 3xp ( wr200) head and barrel onto a dt125r bottom end. They rebuilt with different crank though. Would be pretty easy to measure a dt125r cylinder and compare sizses to your one. If you need the measurements of a dtr cylinder/ head let me know and i can sort that out for you. Is this from a 3ET bike then?