Madison Motorsport

Any rigid axle can be used. It can be from any small car. I've used axles from Minis, Fiestas, 205s and AXs before now.

If you can find a Talbot Alpine, they are a decent sized car and, for a 1.3l engine, like sh*t off a well greased shovel. Or, a Renault 9 or Renault 11 Turbo. I used to have an 11 Turbo. It had the same engine as the 5 Turbo (1.4l) but even though it was a bigger car, it was actually quicker standard because of the gearbox used.

The only viable options to fit the 250 frame are the 360 and 400 engines. The others will physically not fit, plus the added headache of some being shafties as already stated.

That is just complete and utter fucking bollocks! Wankers! This is one subject I will get on my soap box about! I used to race alongside BTCC as an independant (1999-2002) in a support Championship. I have raced Croft many times during that period and since, both in cars and on bikes. It is a truly magnificent circuit and one that holds particularly good memories for me. For instance, in 1998, my fastest lap in my Renault Laguna was 0.03s faster than that of Alain Menu who was driving the works team Renault Laguna. I was also consistently faster than Jason Plato that year. No big deal was made of it because we were in separate classes and did not race alongside but I still have all of the lap times and data in my archive. Croft to me is much better than Brands Hatch or Thruxton or Silverstone. Weather isn't always ideal up in North Yorkshire, but nevertheless, I have always thoroughly enjoyed racing the Croft circuit. Apart from anything else, this court case stinks of back-handers. The nearest domestic property to the circuit is over 1/4 mile away to the NE, in the village. There is nothing but farmland to the South, West and North and East apart from a few industrial units. Certainly no residential dwellings within range to be adversely affected by the noise. Check it out for yourselves on Google Maps!

My wife has always used B'Stones in the past. Her R6 was shod with 014/021 combo and they were absolute crap. After less than 4k miles, the 021 rear was totally square and the 014 front was chisel shaped. She doesn't commute on her bike, purely twisty pleasure. She is now on the Conti Attacks like myself (Sport front and Road rear) and we are both easily running up over twice the mileage of the 014/021s before any signs of needing new tyres. I used to run RP2s on my Cat which were great for high mileage and wet grip, but dry grip was nowhere near as good as the Attacks I am now running.

A bit late on the manhole covers. They are already introducing them as we speak. Most of the covers in and around London have, or are in the process of being, replaced and the rest of the cities will be following suit.

They should replace an absolute minimum of like-for-like in a non-fault claim.

Only need to post this once bud Duly signed

Building a trailer is easy enough if you can read a drawing and, more importantly, if you can weld I'll have a root around and see what I can find.

I've been before and TBH, no amount of special offers will make me want to go again.

Hmmmmmm. I must buy some of those............ NOT! :lol: :lol:

IME, if you are using your R6 for commuting and decide on a pair of Conti Attacks, go for the Sport Attack on the front and Road Attack on the rear. I have this setup on both my R6 and Thunderace. Both bikes are up to around the 8k mark on these tyres. The R6 tyres are still perfect shape and the Ace tyres have only just started to square off (commuting on the Motorway). I fitted them for the TT last year. Both my wife and I love them to bits. As for price, I pay £160 for a fitted pair. Rear only, I pay £90 fitted.

Do you by any chance commute on your bike? The more you ride along straight roads, the quicker your tyres will square off. The OE tyres are the Dunlop D207s and are, IME, in all honesty, crap compared to others available. The best R6 tyres I have found are the Michelin Pilot Sports, Pirelli Dragon Corsa IIs or , if you are on a budget, Conti Sport Attacks.

Firstly, your battery is knackered by the sound of it. While it may have the correct voltage reading, it doesn't always follow that it will be able to provide enough current (Amps) to start the engine. Secondly, ALL mainstream bikes made in the last twenty plus years run a 12v system.

Scorpion Carbon slip-on?

I wouldn't touch a Crapi TBH. You will be lucky to find one within your budget that isn't as rusty as a Suzuki. Have you considered an original Mini Cooper? Proper go karts and lots of fun to drive. Plus, they are cheap to run, tax and insure

It should be located on the frame not too far away from the battery

Any decent signwriter will be able to produce the graphics if you give him the dimensions.

Check the microswitch attached to the rear of the brake pedal by a spring. They often get bunged up with crud due to their unprotected location. A quick spray with compressed air will shift any muck. Failing that, WD40 will also do the job.

I knew there was something I didn't put on my list - Chain Lube! DOH! Last time I toured it was on a shafty (FJR), so you will have to excuse my oversight

The internals are the same as the 99-05 R6 and R1, just the cowlings that are different.

Semi should be fine but I would avoid fully synthetic on a bike of that age.

A few things you will need to take: Bulb & Fuse Kit (a legal requirement on the continent) First Aid Kit (a common sense requirement) Spare fuel in a can or two (fuel stations in France are few and far between and most kick up a fuss if you try and use an English credit or debit card, plus they are unmanned so you cannot pay cash). I usually carry two or three 500ml jerry cans. Tyre Weld and/or mushroom repair kit (Last thing you need is to be calling 'Le AA' unless you can pinpoint exactly where you are) Spare Throttle & Clutch cables (trying to source parts in France can be a nightmare) A small tool kit - small screwdrivers, spanners, electrical tape, C spanner, cable ties (never underestimate the importance of elec tape and cable ties ) Plenty of Visor Cleaner and cloths (I use Shell foaming aerosol Visor Spray, truly wonderful stuff) Emergency mobile phone charger (I have one that is powered by 4 AAA batteries and it really is a godsend) Barclaycard (I have found that this is the only credit card that works in the continent, well most of the time) Apart from that, you really must make sure you have fully comprehensive health cover for your trip as there is no NHS in France so everything will have to be paid for before they let you leave the hospital. Make sure your credit card has plenty of room on it just in case.

Good thoughts but it still doesn't explain why the odo doesn't reset If the battery is disconnected, the odo would reset as well unless there was an internal supply. There should be an internal battery within the unit - it's the same unit as the R1 and R6 which both have an internal battery.

The part number he has listed is for the pre-Divi downpipes. The part number, however, has since been superceeded by this one: 4BR1461003. Not much of a change, but you may have more luck finding a set using this number. If you were to buy these, can you not just fit the original end cans you have already? The bore will be the same size as what you have already. Or is it the link pipe between these downpipes and the end cans that you are having repaired? As for the MOT, as long as the weld is secure (ie; nothing hanging off to present a hazard) and it doesn't leak, it will pass. Technically, all end cans should be marked with the BSI stamp for road use. In reality, most MOT testers will pass the bike anyway as long as your end can isn't taking the piddle on noise. Personally, I don't get the noise issue when Harleys are a lot louder as standard (bloody awful sound IMHO) and they have no issues with the noise regs