drewpy

if your selling the bike, put the old rings back in. Making sure you haven't mixed them up in the first place

not sure about the xj's, but on my bike the gear shaft runs throught the engine to the other side. this then acts on two tentioned hooks which revolve a drum (that's your gear selection) If you have a similar setup (most probably) then you may have knocked the gear shaft slightly (usually they are fixed to stop sliding out, so the problem may have happened anyway) and somehow disengaged one of the "hooks". one hook makes the selection and the other returns it back. its worth taking off the casing to check operation. If you have a manual, have a look there first to confirm the setup. other than that, are your splines ok and not slipping round from the lever action?

this sounds like its the same problem on both counts. All hydraulic master cylinders have a tiny return hole within the resevoir and if this is blocked or partially blocked, won't return the compressed fluid back into the resevior. This will lift your clutch plates away the more you use the clutch (causing slip) and then eventually pop out the clutch piston.

Evilbay has loads. You are best to at least get the bores honed (45' crosshatch)and new rings, but you need to measure the bores first(i'd get your local machine shop to do that accuratley) to determine any wear. try www.Motoward.co.uk give them a call on 01403 824222 they have computerised OEM stock and are really helpful, and suprisingly cheaper than evilbay on some items motolink @ www.yamahaspares.uk.com if you are looking for any 2nd hand spares i have a 250 engine partially stripped in my shed

have you tried this site? http://www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/portal.php they have sr's on there, not sure if they are the same tanks tho'

I used a hair dryer up close and they came off luverly using a finger nail to lift then pull/tug off if you mean badges, then still try the hair dryer method the graphics will of course be stretched and can't be used. use solvent to take off the remaining glue

ahh you said you had no compression tho'

what do you mean "no compression"? how do you think this is connected with the starter? have you tried bump starting the bike?

may have distubed rust or crud in the tank and its got into the carbs. just a thought

they are from an xs400/xs250. are they NOS or used? drew

triple s plug all the threads for you as part of the service

if you buy Classic Motorcycle Mechanics they advertise in there and you can get 5% off with the ad, at the very least you end up getting the mag free

I used triple s in bingley http://www.triple-s.co.uk/ they have an online price list, do a superb job, just degrease your frame and swing arm and they plug all your holes and blast and paint it. Classic Motorcycle Mechanics use them a fair bit. drew

cheers, that sounds right to me, I'll splice it into position 3 of the ignitin switch.

Hi There folks!! Nearing the end of my restoration of the xs400. everything is wired up except the pilot/parking bulb (UK model). I bought a NOS ignition switch and it only has 3 positions as opposed to 4 on the original. This means that the connection to the bulb is missing. Now to the question; When does this bulb light? ie when the main lamp is on or when the key is left in the parking position (or both?) How does this fit in with the MOT regs? Cheers Drew

Every one knows that Yamaha use its parts bin for different models! Just came across this on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=34238 i have'nt used it, but the www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1230 have and says its great! you type in your model and you get all the common parts from other different models, so an sr500 part may fit but with a different part number.

a relay work by energising a "plunger" across an even thicker wire in order to connect up the starter motor. I would think you only interupt the thinner wires which energise the relay as the current draw for the starter motor will fry the wires as it will be a big current draw. the ignition is usually a separate circuit, unless you mean key switch/ignition to recap thats two thinner wires in 1 positive 1 negative and a common colour in and out for the starter motor I hope i make sense

Found this guy on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=ADME:B:SS:UK:1

I use www.motoward.co.uk but they are mainly for classic stuff. give 'em a ring tho', you never know

Thanks, good idea regarding the threads but my original question is... how do i repair the prongs/and or what glue should i use? any ideas?

Does that mean the prongs should be sticking out horizonal, or near closed? Here's a picture of the base with missing prongs. can I repair them or do i stick the seat with glue after powder coating?

Hi, I have just got down to stripping my seat for powder coating, and apart from a bit of rust a few of the prongs that grip through the seat cover are missing. I have already trawled the net for answers, so you lot are my best and last hope As i see it I have 3 options 1) replacing the prongs (and with what?) 2) ignoring that part of the seat, and let it flop (OOO Missus!!) 3) glue that part of the seat, bearing in mind it will be powder coated!! ( and what glue?) I am using a new original Yam seat cover, so I am a little anxious to get it right first time Of the original prongs (due to possible metal fatigue) is it best first to heat them before bending and powder coating? Cheers Drewpy

were you drunk when ya took the piccy? its all blured I'm restoring an excess 400 at the mo' so ask questions if you get stuck!!

Mint "fizzy's" go for silly money. parts from fizzy galore www.fs1egalore.co.uk more info here http://www.fs1e.co.uk/

my '77 xs400 runs on unleaded, and I read that all jap bikes ran on unleaded since early 70's. BTW the fuel today is not as good, so always use fresh juice and drain out carbs etc before starting.