drewpy

was the carb cleaned by ultrasonic method, in my opinion that is the best way to get inside the drillings. try www.jrs.uk.com/ try timing the bike and check the valves have a look at your plugs to see what colour they are(sooty black rich, very white lean) they should be a tan colour. that will indicate if the carb is working

I assume that you have a separated regulator and rectifier here is a diagram that may help. I belive the later electronic regulator/rectifiers are wired slightly different, so that is where the confusion comes in. did you check your voltage regulator?

check bulb ratings and the idiot lamp on the dials.

difficult one..... maybe a valve seal leaking causing oil to run into the cylinder. after a bit the oil is passed through the exhaust and the petrol can ignite. When warm the oil hasn't got time to drain past the seal. do you need to top up the oil level much? Are the valve gaps correct? you need to do a compression and spark plug check, get yourself a helicoil insert first before you take the plug out. Then your covered

sounds like a carb problem. crud from the tanks (use an in line petrol filter) or blocked air filter or fuel tap. Not sure, but looking at a photo of the bike, you will have to take the tank off Hope that helps

I think you may need quite a bit of help on this. try here http://www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/portal.php

easy... ebay i've even done the hard bit for you http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-Yamaha...sspagenameZWDVW

try this http://www.aircooled-rd.com/ forum section, page two (as at 5.05pm 24/5/06), titled wiring in kill switch? hope that helps

you havn't been doing stoppies have you? this really knackers the front forks up as it puts way too much strain on the fork tubes and wears them out pretty rapido!!

Just got back from VJMC Nabs head show near Preston UK, and received 3rd overall for best in show! As you can imagine I'm dead chuffed

far as i am aware, the sr125 is built to have 12hp, the only other way is tuning it. easier to buy a bigger bike like sr250 or sr500.

depends how long they want the bike from you and if it is damaged, who pays for it? Also will the engine be underwritten for damage testing a non standard exhaust (and your warranty will be void forever) just my 2p's worth

what's the first 3 digits on the engine number? I must admit i've never heard of an RK suffix. This is all i got http://www.vjmw.org/yam_id.htm

also Motolink,motoward, speed sport in america. all online

yep, its got loads more info than clymer and haynes (that's why I bought one, and got it from the states) Is it worth it? it was for me and depends on how much your salary is! there may be better examples out there (mine was new for instance)

this is the one i got http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FACTORY-SUP...1QQcmdZViewItem. on ebay now. bit grubby but saves you trying to keep it clean

Ebay, I got haynes. clymer and the official yamaha (the best)

If your putting oil down the bores and spinning it over, watch for oil spraying out. It's just put a couple of squirts in, kick it over on the kickstart and leave to seep into the piston rings in case they are gummed up. Then i'd start trying to start it after a couple of hours. Your igintion timing might be electronic judging by the year, so it shouldn't be an issue unless its been tampered with or the cdi has gone AWOL.

Hi, and welcome. The SOHC xs400(and xs250) models have their camshafts run in the alloy head. These need fresh 20/50 oil. You will need a new (Yam) oil filter to go with the oil. Rubber perishes with age so you need new tyres and tubes you can't use a car battery and ride it, a new battery is only £20 ($$?) clean the air filters of spiders and dust, with compressed air check timing Clean out carbs lube cables spin up the engine with the spark plugs out to get the oil circulating first (And you can check for sparks at same time) any probs post in the classic or workshop section Drewpy

cheers guys, did any of you go to Stafford on Saturday? I did see a blue ac-rd go by on the A34 towards manchester! anyones here?

yep mine runs fine on unleaded

I wouldn't trust it to glue. can you not get it tig welded till then?

there's a bike breakers in farnworth, can you not get one from there? The Bikers Warehouse Ground Floor; Grecian Mill, Worsley Rd North Farnworth, Manchester, Lancashire, M28 5QW Tel: 01204 862832

I get the workbench out, and a petrol can. Stick a length of pipe in the petrol and suck. When the fuel comes out stick it on the carb fuel inlet. voilla!! fuel ps everthing tastes like petrol for a day, but with the wifes cooking, that's a bonus

Wow lots of questions and where to start; 1) pilot screws on mine are 1 turn out from fully screwed in +/- 1/4. don't over tighten or they might snap off the fine needle in the carbs 2) I got a spare 250 carb for spares if your desperate 3) I got a set of 4 indicators from Stafford for £20 and they look the biz, you can get studing from B&Q and cut to fit! 4) carbs need balancing 4) Try granby motors, Motoward and Motolink for yam spares 5) You need to thoroughly clean carbs of all gunk, in the end, i had to send mine off th JRS to be ultrasonic cleaned 6) You don't need to remove air filer to access any adjustments, they will be accessable from above (take off the tank) never run the bike without the air filters Any more probs just let us know! Drewpy