drewpy

I knew that was comming (well the mouse behind was!!)

you could be wet sumping, where the non return valve from the oil tank drains into the engine rather than stays put. the oil pump may not be able to scavenge the oil quickly enough. Iwould also check for any oil gauzes as they block up and not help with oil flow. the amount of oil in your engine could prevent it from turning over 3.5k revs.

Fangs for the tip off!!

there is a computer program called yamx which cross references all USA spec yamha's. I have the progrm but don't have the code to use it get it here

I looked into this for my flat tracker and the xs400 can't run without a battery due to the way it needs 12v to magnitise the field coil. I have seen an xs400 cafe racer which looks like it has one and emailed the owner (to no response) on how he/she achieved this. until there is an answer I am going to ditch the starter motor and fit a small battery where the starter was. this will give me that open look i'm after through the frame. you can see the bike here

sounds like your burning oil. need to check valve seals as they may have hardened with age. Also the piston rings could have stuck allowing oil to get past. I assume you have checked the oil levels, i think the SR is dry sumped, oil in frame?

way yaa! I see that you're doing a tracker. have you got the bits and pieces or are you just starting out?

is the bike a "custom" model?

I have two torque wrenches both 1/4" for my socket set. a low 6lbs to 30, and a larger 10lbs to 80lbs. I got mine from ebay but one is a draper in Nm which is a pain to convert for my use.

carbs gummed up, you will need to strip or send off to a specialist for cleaning. I use normal unleaded Petrol Also high reving is due to the mixture weak, check inlets on carb for cracking.

title not flash it, now Flash Git!!

could be an earthing problem, make sure that you check the earth straps and connections for continuity. other than that, the solenoid is kaput. there is a ebay company in Aus who has yam bits as I have bought from them a few times and was really cheap.

sorry to hear that Merv. I'll keep my eye out on the classifieds

engine and frame number would help as we don't possess ESP yet! picture would also be nice

certainly a good point about no load as this could prevent the grease from penetrating at the load point.

Talking to a tech guy today at local bike dealer, and he recommends using 140w gear oil for greasing the swing arm as opposed to normal grease. The thinking behind this is that normal grease hardens with age and stops doing its job. What do you guy's and Gals think about using 140w gear oil?

try ebay germany. they liked the euro styling of this model and there are quite a few there. I def saw a (white) Guilari seat for that model on ebay not long ago here you are ebay #'s 280111501642 260206738584 140187893259

just a note on woodrough keys, they are only there as a guide and don't stop the magneto from turning, this is done by the taper on the crank and why you have a puller to separate the parts.

in less air. As a guide, should be 1 1/4 turns out from the bottom

Well, guess what I'm doing at the moment Jack the bike up, or leave on main stand but raise 2" off ground undo caliper and tie up from frame (or if drum don't do this) Take off speedo drive and front wheel undo the clamps for the legs and twist down and off the bike (that's why you jack it up) tricky bit..... use an 8mm (i think) Allen key under fork leg and clamp leg in vise. (you have left the springs in didn't you?) using a shock/snap motion, loosen and undo the bolt. you still have oil in so be careful. leave standing on a bowl to let oil drain out (pref overnight) If the bolt turns but doesn't undo, come back on here as now it becomes a pain. Repeat for the other leg get the wife to take out the circlip whilst you push down on the top spring securing plug. (my missus has done this before and is really good at it. If you're lucky you can get her in a position so her tits rub on your arm, Bonus!!) take off the lower fork leg circlip Prise out the seal with a tyre lever and use heat. Mine has come out easy as i did this a few years ago and greased (ACF50) the seal watch for a spacer under the seal clean all the crud at the bottom of the leg drift in the new seal making sure it is the right way up anneal the copper washer for the allen bolts and check for any signs of wear reverse procedure for assembly (inc the missus help!)

A coach driver was driving a load of blind people around. He stopped at a pub for a drink and being the kind person that he was, he told the blind people to play some football, and attatched a couple of bells on a ball so then they could hear where abouts it was. After much plastering of himself, a couple of coppers walked in and asked who was looking after a bunch of blind people. The driver owned up and asked them why. "Well sir they're kicking the shit out of a load of morris dancers!"

They are built to use unleaded, must be your locale. I thrash mine and never get pinging. I regulary do 80+mph on cheshire A/B roads (weather and cameras permitting) and it never fails or throws a wobbler. I do keep it in tune though

I put semi-syth millars 20/50 in mine, which is a fossil based cracked oil. I did post a similar reply in another thread, whereas I said synth was too slippy for the clutch and I got derided

what a frame and engine? it's inearly stages as I am fitting an under tank brake master cyl and I'm having to do it outside (bloody freezing) and I'v got no money after Xmas/birthdays. Will post soon as there is something to see

I've used all 3 and can't tell the difference, so I stick with the cheapest. handbook just says regular or low lead fuel