drewpy

just make sure the square inner cable end fits in the square socket. the outer cable is round and theres no orientation.

I actually sucked the fluid through the caliper with the lever compressed. I used a clear pipe so i don't drink the stuff. then I routed the hose over and in the m/c resevior so once the fliud starts moving all air is expunged within the resevior. I also then simutanisly compressed the lever and opened the bleed screw on caliper, kept the lever to the bar and shut off the bleed screw. That's because i noticed it just kept pushing the fluid back and forth via the clear pipe. when it stops going back and forth and reaches back to the m/c its easy enough to keep pumping and the new fluid keeps recycling. Read this in CCM by Chris "writebike" pearson!!

Welcome

Have you checked fuses for integrity? take 'em out and bit of wire wool the fuse ends and clips. battery fully charged and charging? have you tried a completly different coil and lead to eliminate that part? there are electronic coils and contact assisted coils!! the ignition trigger is pretty robust and works on either magnetism or optical (if optical need to make sure that the cover is on as sunlight would affect running) is there 12v being supplied when the bike becomes faulty? use a multimeter probe and crank over.

did you get my PM?

bump!

yep xs are 34mm, why don't you email and ask for the sizing?

you may have a 2 in 1 fitted somewhere, all bikes need a regulator and rectifier if you want the battery charged. racers do away with this but need to charge the battery off the bike every meet.

no take it right out first, as it fits in a metal rebate on the outer cable. The cable will be a bit stiff, twist with pliers first!!

does sound like clutch adjustment. As the engine rotates it will let you go forward ( in a way engine assited clutch drag) but try and push back you are going against the engine rotation. maybe your clutch rod is bent slightly so the clutch has no time to fully disengage!!

you need to RIDE THE BIKE! this is the best way to keep the engine in good condition. the engine isn't getting hot enough as it need to be under load.

I'll be on the xs400, what your riding?

should go faster than 55 I get the ton out of my 400, 250's will do 80mph bike on centre stand, level ground, unscrew the dippy, wipe it, then rest on top without further screwing ( sounds a bit rude this post!) pull out and check level. I recommend using 20w 50 millers classic sport oil semi synth or equivelent oil in states http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_BIKE.htm

I used a file and did it by hand,its only alloy and easy to do on the caliper mount. I left the hub alone

I'm booked in the barnsley M/C festival this year!! I'll have to get your autograph then

when I changed to twin disks on my 400 the cast wheels where fine, but when i had spokes put on I had to shave a few mill off the caliper mount.

about bloody time!!

don't forget tx 500 as well!!

I think there was a discussion on aircooled rd site and the consensus was they were too fragile. Don't forget that these were one of the first production "alloy" wheel and Yam were still learninig their craft. That's why I spent over £400 on flanged ally spoked wheels, much lighter (and sexxy!)

Dat's funny

there was one on ebay not long ago!! typical eh? I sourced mine from usa and got them zinc plated, now looks like new. Item number: 320213545092 just found on usa ebay, no wire hook though for compressing rear swing arm if you want i can show you mine I assume that they are very similar comming from the same stable!!

I wouldn't as the varnish lifts after a bit and looks horrible. I did consider all the merits when I rebuilt my bike. so in the end I opted to hand polish every now and then and after 2 years it looks as good as when i first did it!!

It shouldn't do!! make sure the battery is fully charged and functional as this is required to charge up the battery (sounds daft, but the stator is excited by magnatism via the field coil and needs a good 12v) you should be reading 14.5 volts @ 3k revs across the battery

belive it or not, the white powder is protecting the alu underneath! best way is to use wet and dry, start rough and work your way to 1200 NEVER USE WIRE WOOL, it embeds into the soft alu and then rusts!! I stick mine on a polishing mop then peeks polish to keep it that way.

i'll be there 26th!