drewpy

sorry Merv, the dohc (12E)has nothing in common with the 2a2 xs400 except the name. for the dohc you need the brake parts from an xj550. it is explained here in german so you will need a translator, or just look at the pictures http://yamaha-xs400.de.vu/ click Fahrwerk

do it yourself! fork seals are £8 and new oil £15 for 1 litre of 20w. I recon it will take you day to do, the hardest part would be prising out the seals themselves, but using heat and tyre lever/something similar and protecting the alloy leg with cloth, there should be no problem. if you do get stuck post on here and we'll help you! for a dealer to do, he won't want to do it, so will charge you big time to put you off. maybe 3 hours work @ £30 an hour plus parts

we'll all need some viagra soon, there's a general erection on the 1st may

Glad you liked the show, it is amazing 1st time you see it. does get a bit "samey" if you go twice a year, but its the ride down there that is the best bit for us now (A roads) I think his battery is duff as the starter motor was very very sluggish. but he has had it off the road since sept with no trickle charge. BTW its CBX

didn't realise it was Chris, should have used his "writebike" forum name

my mate bought a disk lock for his CBX550F... its got enclosed disks on the front and rear!!

check head bearings for play and adjust. are you sure its 10W? mine has 20W in.

http://www.siriusconinc.com/ http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html http://www.cameron-site.co.uk/nrp/

if its the same type ie sohc, then all should fit, but the custom models used a 16" rear wheel and higher profile tyre. dohc, the german web site put xj550 front end on for twin disk conversion. is this the xs400 drag bike with a turbo on I saw in MCM?

already done that Merv, but no reply.

Nice to meet you at stafford today blackhat250! hope you got back safe and fully tanked up before heading back to bonnie scotland!! lotherton show is 27th July, I have booked 2 weeks hols either side but not booked anything yet. so at the mo' can go!!

cirrus based in canada do keyster kits and bits

Its possible, but adapting the bracket would be troublesome. usually its a shaped homemade bracket welded to frame is easiest way

cheers, its got stainless wires and valanced alloy rims on now!!

do you have a schematic diagram as I don't think that there is too much difference. Just the connection trigger to CDI box and CDI power/coils. If you still have the wiring loom, it might be best to connect up and unravel the outer cover and keep your wires connected to the cdi.

Hope you had a good 'un!

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your cuppa across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Yeouw....' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond the original intended target object. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 10mm or 13mm socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. WORK LAMP: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,' which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic senseless. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands. DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big hammer

have you done a forum search? (rhetorical question)

eh?

that's The George Cross. (Capitalisation)

union jack is flown from a ship union flag is what you mean, and I'm a scouter and salute the flag and what it represents every week.

just make sure the square inner cable end fits in the square socket. the outer cable is round and theres no orientation.

I actually sucked the fluid through the caliper with the lever compressed. I used a clear pipe so i don't drink the stuff. then I routed the hose over and in the m/c resevior so once the fliud starts moving all air is expunged within the resevior. I also then simutanisly compressed the lever and opened the bleed screw on caliper, kept the lever to the bar and shut off the bleed screw. That's because i noticed it just kept pushing the fluid back and forth via the clear pipe. when it stops going back and forth and reaches back to the m/c its easy enough to keep pumping and the new fluid keeps recycling. Read this in CCM by Chris "writebike" pearson!!

Welcome