drewpy

take out the valves and put them in a drill, use fine wet n dry and spin away dead easy. keep an eye on the vavle seats as there maybe a stepped seat and has to match the cyl head. always keep valves in the same place you took them from. ideal for alu engines is vapour blasting some companies can do the complete engine with no stripping involved. i had my head ceramic cleaned in a drum by steve smethhurst in salford uk. and its till as clean 2 years down the line.

for an xs400sg

found a supplementl section in my official Yam service manual, here goes; model id 3F9-00 main jet #135 needle jet Y-2 Pilot jet #42.5 starter jet #35 jet needle 5GZ9 float height 27.3 +/- 0.5mm air jet main #45 air jet pilot #155

I hate to tell you this but I just viewed the 83' parts manual and there are only 5 gears listed

love the flat tracker version, what tank is it? and yeah those pipe are way cool

1. correct so when you open up the tang it shuts the fuel off "earlier" and gives you a lower fuel height. You hold the carbs right way round and gently blow though the fuel inlet whilst raising the floats. when the air stops, that's where the measurement is taken. 2. I thought 111's were for the dohc xs400? correct me if i'm wrong. 3. I don't do inches only metric

The float height is measured at fuel shut off NOT bottomed out as in pictures!! bend the tongue down towards carb to shut fuel off earlier and lowers the level of fuel in carb bowl are you sure they are 111's? the tickover adjustment is on the outside and have plastic floats

its been covered to death on other posts.

my bad, just checked the parts book and they are the correct wheels and 19" front. just seems a retrograde step when the thinking at the time was going over to 17". I know that yam used 16" with higher profile tyre on "factory customs"

for a start the tyres should be 18" wider front tyres will slow the steering down the optimum would be BT45 bridgestone 90/90

VJMC's 2nd Ux show at the racecourse. see and hear classic bikes, Sat and sunday

why are you disconnectng the battery when the bike is running? you will f*ck up the rectifier and burn out the alternator and all you are doing is killing the juice to the coil thatr's why it stops!!

bending the tag outwards ie opening the gap, will get the floats to close the fuel off sooner

not usual, need to get either new seals or new brake hose depending where the leak is. seals are only supposed to have a 5 year life and fluid 2 year!!

its usually the front studs rusting in the barrel. need to get some plus gas/diesel down there and leave to soak for a week. empty and then heat and gently tap the block.

woohooo at last

just had an idea check your brakes arn't dragging, when i had mine powder coated, they partially seized and it felt like evry time i changed gear the bike slowed noticably. I just gave the caliper a kick and a bit of shaking to free up the seizure. it took a while to keep doing ( ijust rebuilt them so i knew i had no seal issues) and now no problems

use a carb balancer and get the needles pointing the same direction. if you can't get them to match then you have ignition or compression issues.

yep, stop the wife riding pillion,works every time for me

just need to tune the bike, ignition timing valves etc and maybe adjust the pilot to richen or weaken a bit by checking the spark plugs.

i have seen a support post snapped off a 250 model which woud render the kick inoperative. but you would need to jump on it to do that much damage!! will the pistons move if you bump it? try without the sparkies in just to check. that will eliminate the clutch once and for all!!

i think yours will be a 12E which is the dohc model not the sohc 's you mentioned

its called a false neutral and mine does it sometimes. mine clonks when cold but snicks when warm. my mates cbx1000 clonks everytime!!

http://www.classicbikeforum.com/view_topic...highlight=xs400