drewpy

its a sure fire method of cleaning your carbs using ultrasonic sound waves

just get a socket and undo the bugger. it may be tight if its not been touched for a while as the unit sits in line of the front sprocket. if you are really pernikity, take off the whole sprocket cover, unhook the clutch cable and undo the worm unit from inside. put in a vice and go at it from there!!

ultrasonics the way, I'll tell yer!!

crud/swarf making a connection. undo the left sprocket cover and there should be an iory colored plastic thing with 3 countershrunk screws and 1 connection. take this off and clean it. BTW

its an air leak or too much air getting into the mix. mixture screw should be 2.5 turns anti-clock wise from bottoming out. check intake rubber for cracking

its the starter clutch, there are little cylindrical "bearings" which are pushed aginst the crank by little springs and when the engine is stationary the starter motor can spin the clutch up and the "bearings" grip the crank and turn over the engine. when these wear flat they just spin round the crank. to repair you need to take off the left covers and pull off the stator to get to the clutch. special puller is needed to extract the stator. and you can buy clutch starter kits from mike xs which i think fit yours drewpy

thats a lot of oil to burn. yes you do need a battery power to start. its not a magneto bike. check your contacts for pitting and check for flashes from them when a friend kicks it over! (condensors knackered) most prob your carbs have varnished if left with fuel in over a period of time, have you tried easy start?

good one. btw; for the americans here, its not a vietnam vet we a talking about !!

The National Eczema Association are currently fundraising. They've just launched a scratch card.

i'd go at least 3 sizes = circa 500rpm

might just be Psycological

i would say 10 mpg, depends how you ride it

on my xs400 the level is measured with the dipstick removed and placed on top of the orifice without screwing in, that is where the meaurement is taken! if you have overfilled and want to remove some oil, would it be easier to loosen the front oil filter housing and dump that and refit, then turn-over engine to re-prime?

cos it was revving higher for the same given speed!!! 360 sprogs should fit

just switch on your lights before you move off if your that worried!!

at first i went 43 rear sprocket (37 stock) and i could keep up with more modern bikes up to 80(even lifts the front end), but it supped fuel and would wear the engine out quicker, your choice. you can use the xs250 sprockets. to recap on european models from my parts book; xs250 front 15T rear 43T england and swiss models xs250 front 15T rear 41T france holland belguim models xs400 front 16T rear 37T 1 tooth on/off front = 3 teeth on/off rear

for chain longevity, try for a bigger front sprocket as a smaller rear will mean the chain has to run a steeper angle and wear quicker. i think i use a 102 link, but i buy whatever chain is cheap and cut with an angle grinder to suit using the link! check you have enough room for chain and sprocket first and don't use o ring as that's too fat to fit!

do you have to use indicators on the bike? junk them as the cafe racer style will look better

LOL

there's a company called re-dial in the uk who can repair re-face your dials

i agree, its called the flame front. as the fuel is ignitied and piston speed increases, the ignition has to start early to complete combustion. In the early days you had to retard the ignition (ie piston after TDC) just to get the buggers going (engine efficiencies/compression/shit fuel/etc)

just jesting I feel a fool every night, but the wife is starting to object

Brill..................iant

try motoward, granby's, govenors bridge in uk!

45 tooth sprocket will make the engine turn faster for the the same speed. on my sohc I went 1 tooth bigger on front = 3 less teeth on rear.