drewpy

i'd change it after 1500 miles along with a oil filter

see my post above to test

bike oil is specifically blended for bikes, and has different properties than motor oil which has a much easier time over longer service intervals. I'm asuming that, because it is produced in much smaller quantities, it tends to be more expensive.

you can actually mix different grades of fork oil to get another grade ie 10w + 30W to get something between 10 and 30 depending on the ratio's. BTW dont ask I don't know the ratios

cheeky bugger

they are the same bushes as the RD, i had to get mine reamed out though for the pivot

phone motoward, they will have them in stock

the swing arm shouldn't move at all (well, except up and down! ) which sounds like the bushes have worn and the tension is pulling the swing arm over. a new chain is £20, but you really need to get new sprockets at the same time to minimise chain wear. there will always be a tight spot and that is where you adjust the chain so it's not over tightened and doesn't strain the output shaft. it's 20mm movement on the XS.

what "spings" to mind, and I won't keep you in suspension, is that I use 20w fork oil and fill it 6" to the top of the tube. (forks fully compressed with the spings removed) The motor oil option performs badly as i belive that the oil foams and thus reduces it damping properties. wurth (german) and hagon (british) do an uprated progressive sping option if you want less dive. a 400 front end will fit yours if you want disks, but offer out the drum front end as lots of peeps are after those to do cafe racer/bobber bikes!! don't forget that you had a spoked front wheel and, unless you can get a 250 spoked front hub, you will have a front alloy wheel!! hope I didn't put a "damper" on things!!

woo yay good 1

considering neutral is between 1st and 2nd yes you are being too light on it. wear bike boots help as trainers are too soft over the toes. I occasionally get caught out, especially if I hare to down shift quickly at roundabouts

the beady one?

its called valve seat recession. the valve seats wear and the valve starts to seat deeper into the head closing up the valve clearance

thats the problem with them...mucho wonga!!

pioneerX has a site which has the XS400 which is exactly like the 360 (which has a smaller bore)

did you lap them in this time? just a thought, is the head and barrel flat? use an engineers steel ruler and check for warpage, could be gas escaping to next cylinder

as far as you can tell? you need a multimeter and check volatage and continuity of lamps!

and.......did you get a spark?

when running with charged battery. you should be getting 14.5 volts + across the battery terminals @ 3k revs. if not, your voltage regulator has gone.

it will be engraved on a flat part of the crankcase in an obvious position.

all hail King Merv, the courier King!!!

neither 20w 50 i use millars semi synthetic classicsport oil, never use full synthetic as your clutch will slip!!

that was the mens

if you have just rebuilt the motor it could be that it just needs running a bit. The valves need to bed in, I don't think that swopping the camshaft over (temorarily) would do damage unless you miss-timed the valves thus hitting the piston crown. did you use new valves and ground them in or reuse the old but didn't put back into their original place?

there was a female weightlifter who had an amazing snatch.