drewpy

don't know if anyone knows this but the advent of digital cameras have brought other gimmicks to the fore. The latest is tiltshft where a photograph is duplicated ond slightly blurred. this gives the impression of looking at a toy! I found a web site that does it on;ine for your pleasure http://tiltshiftmaker.com/ here's one i did earlier

SUCCESS: At age 4 success is . . . not piddling in your pants. At age 12 success is . . . having friends. At age 17 success is . having a drivers license. At age 35 success is . . having money. At age 50 success is . . having money. At age 70 success is . . ... having a drivers license. At age 75 success is . . having friends. At age 80 success is . . not piddling in your pants.

either get 1 2nd hand or one made out of stainless for that extra special bling

or make em outta cornflake packets like we used to do way back when

to the forum

engine oil may be old and thick (like me!)

linky here http://www.classicshows.org/DoningtonBikeJapsFeb09.htm

I would get second hand axle and spacer and angle grind the f%cker out. sorted. check ebayas there's loads of parts there.

I love it when peeps turn a problem into a benefit

way too expensive, donnington on the 7th Feb is the first show for me (hopefully)

if its electronic then the front brake application would take it out of auto mode!!

I think you can get away with 2 amp if you are NOT running starter motor. I am going to try one that size as you only need to exite a magnet!! I would keep the air box hoses and the T-peice which goes to the breather system as this gives the diaphram an undisturbed air flow to the carb. I am doing this with my xs tracker and it looks good with out the side panels. yes I have emgo and they are too tight but perfecto for the air box tubes!! as for the bars you need to change the harmonics to where it is confortable Ie where in the rev range you are riding! as you are Leaning more on the bars you are affctivly changing the harmonics by adding your body weight. do you still have the rubber isolation plugs in there? try tightenig them or losening them (not too much LOL)

what normally returns the pads back is the "rolling" action of the piston seal as it returns to normal state after compression. problems can arise with rust in the brake cylinder affecting this and also the "slurge" hole in the master cylinder blocks up, preventing a return of a small amount of brake fluid from the initial compression of the brakes.

I would suggest getting a manual as it is detailed there, not too hard depends where its routed originally. If you PM yamagod, i'm sure he'll have an electronic one!!

and it will get the air out of the system as well

lets hope it extends to Manchester!!

and 405 = LB80IC yamaha chappy

just try it. make sure the brake disks line up and the sprocket/chain is straight with the rear. another good idea would be to check the wheel bearings have the same numbers as this will indicate that the axle will fit drewps

or £20 from stafford show

my friend

your not supposed to put anything on the valve cover as the camshaft runs directly in the head and cover. introducing anything else will open the bearing gap and you may, at worse, lose oil pressure, or the camshaft will "jump around introducing wear!!!

I thought it was blowing out of the exhaust near the head which could be an exhast gasket, but it doesn't explain the oil. but I'd still check the head for warpage!!

need to lube the clutch cable methinks, its not that bad

if the valve seats are really pitted/pock marked it would be better for an engineer to recut them. other wise just using the smooth paste should be enough. the exhaust valves are the ones which wear the most as they take away the hot gases. valve stem clearances; inlet 0.010 - 0.037mm exhaust 0.030 - 0.057mm also it would be prudent to check the cyl head for warpage by using the glass pane/feeler gauge method suggested by shed hermit.