drewpy

125 and 250 was great racing even though cut short, gutted I missed monday's action as toby (eurosport) said that they wouldn't race as they couldn't get to the next race meet in time!!

Just found this tip; "Repel rain from windshield. Put gobs of baking soda on a dampened cloth and wipe windows inside and out" anyone tried it, and will it work on visors? drewps

not sure what you mean realign? if its bent , its bent!! you could always loosen one side of the fork clamps and bounce the bike up and down to push the forks around, but theya re still bent and will need straightening BTW to the forum

some ideas; are the disks clean as you may have some oil on one part so the brakes grip then slide, grip and slide causing the chatter!! have you got enough damping oil in the forks and have you renewed the oil? no flats on the tyre? drewps

far as I know it got cancelled as I was waiting for it to come on last night.

just slide the stantions through the top clamps. the bike will get twitchy as you have altered the steering geometry. shortening the forks via the springs will bottom out the forks and make for an uncomfortable ride!

If you don't like cleaning the carbs cirrusonic consolidated in canada will do them for you!!

Looking good so far, keep it up!! drewps

srx 's are pretty bikes, If you do a search I'm sure someone has posted a similar thread drewps

to the forum xs650's haven't got any major issues just need to be sure the person selling it knows bikes and looks after them, otherwise you will be fixing bodges forever!!

try NRP in manchester for your carb diaphrams

if your kick start isn't working, than I assume the clutch is slipping as(I have mentioned in another thread) you need the clutch to grip for the kick to work. there should be 2-3mm play at the bar lever and to adjust the clutch, take out the black plug and unlock the nut. screw in the philips screw head till it just touches resistance then back off 1/4 turn (anticlock wise) lock it off using the nut. you should have full clutch operation and be able to kick start drewps

yeah, its a bucket for photos

if you are having problems with the circip (snapring?) I normally get a rebuild kit first as it conatins a spare boot which the circlip holds. the old boot is ripped out so you can see the circlip! normally you need extra long circlip pliers but i have used a long nail to at least move the clip and then "flick" one side up (via the hole in the circlip) and do the same with the other. sometimes its good to soak in wd40 or some other releasing oil before hand drewps

jesta

richie enjoy your stay

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I'd check you have brakes shoes first, they'll need cleaning out anyways. normaly after adjusting the pedal height, you adjust the nut on the end of the brake rod, and not the lever. The lever normally has a dot punched on it to correspond with a dot on the pivot shaft into the drum. drewps

there are a few wires in my headlight that don't do anything. I think Its a generic loom to cover all the countries. if its a feed make sure its isolated and try the electrics, you'll soon se what doesn't work drewps

if its not been run for a while, the oil control ring can gum up letting oil get past into the cylinder

fork off

Whale Oil Beef Hooked

that's assuming they have filters as some folks "lose" them. the inline filters are usually paper so can filter out that brown Talc type rust you get from uk petrol stations drewps

I am looking for a bmw tank to fit the ATE undertank M/Cyl i just want the base so i have a base (sic!) to work from and I've decided to build the top half. I'll enrole in night school somewhere near Manchester to access tools. drewps