drewpy

no where near, 650 engine is taller.

or DAZ or OMO or Persil

yep, battery and flooding, that'll mess it up and even if the battery has 12v, the amps may be gone. happened to mine in the pissing rain, it started missing and wouldn't run over 50 mph. new battery and voila!!

youth of today eh!!!

you'll need a good amp charge to turn over the bike and run the CDI. get your battery amps checked or buy a new one as I think yours is on its way out!!

you don't need Lead Replacement Petrol, all jap bikes from the 70's were designed to run on unleaded. As OG said check filter and vacuum petrol tap. you would be well to strip those carbs and give the bike a good service. Also coils can break down after a bit due to their age.

re-enforced concete is very strong

so long as you ask them to supply the jets for a 250, can't see why not

will this one do? here try yambits site as well

why? coz you always leave late, as you come too quick

it tumbled like a matchbox? never seen matchboxes tumbling so i couldn't comment

there is a site here and here

voodvale rally is on only stunt bikes but loads of petrol head stuff like this

good tip. some people melts tie wraps into the crack to weld a repair

ebay uk has remanufactured fuse boxes for sale. you just need to get another connector to rewire the bike. ebay

did you mix up the coil connections with the points. try switching them round. don't forget LT/RT is TDC for valves and LF/RF is for checking timing (contacts begin to open)

maybe the battery is on its way out and the starter sups all the available juice so the ignition gets starved. its just you said that it starts ok on bump

damn you beat me to it!!

coil heating up and going bad?

glad your making progress. I think its a matter of ensuring you can brake ( new fluid every 2 years!!) and that the engine has good oil and is tuned up. start collecting tools as you can afford them ( even second hand) strobes are good for timing and vaccum gauges for occassional carb balancing ( go halves with someone) drewps

I would say that's an after market exhaust as original yams were welded. I would go ahead and do it but don't over do it as you'll strangle the performance

not sure, if its cheap enough try it as Rassk rear sets cost loads

if its like the xs400, you need to drain the oil out and take off the right cover. than dismantle the gear selector parts and slide out the shaft. I bought a new one from yambits as its the same as an RD400 D/C

I would have though this site to be your best bet http://www.fs1e.co.uk/