drewpy

14v @ 3k revs is within spec. with these bikes, you need a good battery, if it's not holding charge then you wan't get back a decent charge!! the tesing of the solid state voltage regulators only states the above test (14v - 14.7v) with a fully charged battery. rectifiers are diodes which only allow electricity to flow in one direction. this process converts AC current to DC, that is why you won't get a reading one way. I'd check battery condition firstly NEVER RUN ENGINE WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED! drewps BTW I just posted a link for a parts book for the SJ under xs400 links

only company i know of PSW customs

when you get the bike going, run a volt meter on the Batt terminals. you should be getting 13 - 14.5 volts at 3k revs. if not i suspect the voltage regulator first drewps

There seems to be a problem with these. this dragstar has a couple of rattles on the front end

to the forum loopy i was busy with me tracker and polishing me other bike for tomoz ride

Clever bit of coding - it's all perfectly safe for work, until you select all of the text and colour is automatically applied to each letter. http://fichtre.net/yop.html

I'd tend to lean towards clutch drag. make sure its adjusted at the engine side first. there is another thread about this which, quite frankly, has been done to death

got them from HEL

that GL750 was a rare one, built to offset kwacker KH and the suzie GT triples! thanks for posting

not sure on the yolk sizing, but you would need the wheel/spindle as well as it runs a 19" size wheel and the brake caliper is on the opp side! look forward to seeing you creation take shape on another thread!

they all do that sir!. its the oil circulating that rotates the clutch basket, and the plates that do move induce the rotation.

good to hear your doing ok with the bike. It can be fustrating sometimes, but that is part of its charm great when it all works and you have done it yourself

after BWJ's trip to south Africa, he has a dilema...... <object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

get breakdown insurance and "break down" there, get a tow home. obviously it needs not to run!!

on my 400 it is

what do you call a french man with open toed sandles?............ Philipe flop

cable too tight, need to slacken off the cable cable too tight, need to slacken off the cable eh!! after reading that a doz times, haynes does sound right, in its "implication" lever adjustment is the fine tuning bit!

yes, the clutch will slip, use semi synth if your keen not always, some carb stuff, some brakes and switches may be compatible also can be said re SR range braided brake lines, modern pad material and R1 engine (last one was not serious)

spelt it wrong it wirth

try WURTH in germany

full right position is for parking on an unlit road acording to UK law! as for the rest, check the earth strap and connections to the starter solinoid and check fuses

the yellow is the pilot/ idle mixture adjustment the exploded spring and screw to the left is the carb balance adjustment (it only adjusts one carb to match the others flow rate!) hope that's clearer

hic!! show mw the way to go homwe i'm tired an' i want to go to beaaaaaaad