drewpy

to the YOC Andy was that a classic guzzi (le mans? V7?)

I borrowed a colortune, it was rubbish, could'nt determine any colour change, so i gave up and tried the alternative way of setting up the pilot mix. 1) get a spare plug and replace one ht lead to that. you are only running one cylinder so will need to raise the tickover. 2) tweak the pilot mix screw till you get higher revs (then lower the tickover so it don't rev too much) 3) keep going till the bike starts to lower again, then go the other way 4) take the median between both points and thats the optimum mix 5) repeat the other side

that snapped kickstart boss is a common problem due to newbies stabbing at the kickstart, not letting it mesh with the gears first. your right in saying that the halfs need to be together as they are machined as a pair, as are the head and cam cover! xs360, 250 and 400 crancases are all the same, may be able to snag one cheap somewhere. when you say clean barrels I take it as the finned outer, if you mean clean the bores, then honing is the way to go, you can do it yourself by hiring the honers and using a drill

only taking a 1 man tent, its a roof on the ground

Rick We'll have plenty of DT's the following morning of the squires meet

Kev, your better comming with me and we'll meet Vez on the way near his place! What time are we aiming to get there? 10? How many are camping? I think it would be better to tell the organisers, so they can allocate space for us. We'll need to put Kev near the toilets/burger van if you want any peace

the guide/tensioner is unworn? i had to renew mine and it took slack out of the starter chain. I can't belive that your chain can jump after renewing the chain and an unworn guide/tensioner. its a very simple system!

its there in the fiche, no 3

cardboard Dave your welcome to join the YOC on the 4th sept

W11 there is no provision to mount a starter I'm afraid. to go the USD route I would look at the rd/ypvs boys amd see what they use. I'm sure the neck from a similar year bike would be the same diameter!

for the split cases i used wellseal, i swear by the stuff as you can get a tiny flat brush and apply it bothside really thinly. I also have 3 bond in grey, i bit like yamabond only cheaper. too thick for my liking and hard to apply as it strings when lifting off the surface.

its not the valve sticking, quite the opposite, look for a ridge or coloured mark where it seats in the carb. sometimes they are viton tipped which makes it harder to determine the wear.

that's not me...its the wrong colour helmet

kev, for £20 more i got agreed value (£2500) with carol nash, no limited mileage, fully comp and breakdown cover (needed for a stinkwheel!)can't see any other limitations

if you did a forum search, you would find out that the carb mix is lean. been mentioned many many times before!!

Adam, I think you do have a screw loose the mechanical one might have been replaced in the past with an electronic one. newtronic did a combined reg/rectifier as a direct replacment, but they are now a defunct company!

bum bum

just read somwhere about voltage regs. something about a certain type for certain alternators. I'll have a mooch and see if me internet history comes up with something.. found this from chopper underground The reg/rec doesn't know or care what brand bike it is on, all it's looking at is voltage. You can use the reg/rec from a permanent magnet alternator but that's not an ideal setup. In that case you would hot wire the field so it is always on 100%. That is a major drain on the system [40 watts!] and will shorten the life of the already sketchy rotor. try asking here The better choice is one from an electro magnet alternator since it will modulate the current through the field to maintain voltage. There are only two types, ones that mount between the battery feed and the field [where the other leg of the field is grounded], and ones that mount between the field and ground [where the other leg of the field is fed a constant battery voltage]. The XS650 used both types. The early mechanical regulators were the first type, modulating the power. The later solid state bikes were the second type, modulating ground. You can wire either bike with any regulator so it doesn't really matter which you have now. If using a ground modulating regulator on an early bike you will have to insulate the brush screws since they ground out one of the brushes. If you have an extra wire then it's likely a voltage sensing wire. For whatever reason, some bikes read the voltage after the ignition switch rather than directly off of the battery. Every one I've tested doesn't draw enough current to kill the battery so I'm not sure why they did it that way. Just hook this wire to the positive output that goes to the battery.

also for hearts, which you don't seem to have

float could have been punctured and also the inlet float valve could be worn. try for spares

thought you were making a paper gasket, not spreading goo on it! that will still work, but i used to (before i had money) use cornflake packets for low pressure gaskets

you'll need to take off the carb top and diaphram to release the spray bar under the mains, as it pops out through the carb top. try and get the carb ultrasonic cleaned as its the best way.

to cheer up kev, i found his next bike does 5000 calories to the mile

they won't refuse as its not a contributing factor in the accident and any court would'nt deem otherwise! if you bought "in good faith" from a dealer, they have a legal obligation to sell roadworthy bikes, otherwise its back onto them. I'd not mention any of that though unless asked specifically (in writing) I'd do what gas says, get a name of someone who is dealing with the claim, and phone them every day. I got knocked off my bike and phoned my solicitor daily, I also told him i will phone every day. he got sick of it, said i was i PITA and tried to say nothing will have happened in 24 hours TOUGH. he was glad to sort out the claim asap!

apart from rejetting, which could be difficult to get right, will fit. you may need to respace the carbs with homemade brackets (easy to do)