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drewpy
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Everything posted by drewpy
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the oil light should be off!! that means if you have no oil in your tank then the engine is partially seizing. check your oil first
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I just got home from Tractor pullin' in Gt Eccleston Nr Blackpool If you like engines, just look at this 8500 hp from 5 V8's also jet engines a plenty
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code information from your engine or frame number here try speed and sport
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you could always try this and engine wise do a lay-up kit
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should not have any sparks jumping the points, your condensor has gone if it does!! the points share a live feed which when closed "charge" up the coils. to check your coils 4 ohms and 9.5k ohms should be measured on your coil wiring +/- 10% or swap over if one side is working. I had problems with my bike bogging down under 5k revs and then trying to go over this. new plugs (iridium) cured this. did you use the correct timing marks on the rotor? always use a strobe as when you tighten up the points the damn things shift, so i have to compensate so when it tightens up they are spot on.
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Far as I know fuel is not hydroscopic (like brake fluid) water is present in the air (and in tank) and condeses. As water is heavier than fuel it sinks and guess where your fuel tap is? that's why tanks are rustier at the bottom. drewpy
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if you can post a pikkie of the decals I can maybe tell you where you may get them. Its just that ther are about 4 different types for different countries and year!! Post Script: found this on ebay but there is a 4th version,( I know as my friend has them on his)
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check out spark plugs to see if they are rich, I doubt they are. I have a feeling that you have some crud in your carbs especially the pilot jets as they give the rpm idle you describe. The only fix is to strip and ultrasonic clean the carbs and fit new jets whilst your at it. get the keyster kits from ebay http://www.siriusconinc.com/rebuilding_tips.asp
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I might have a used set but you don't say what size rings as there are oversizes!!!
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for sohc models inlet 0.08 -0.12mm ex 0.16 - 0.20mm
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0.3 - 0.4mm
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I use a semi-synth 4T oil and change every 3000 miles with a genuine yam oil filter.
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usually to the front
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If the chain and/or chain guides wear the auto tensioner would be out as far as it goes thus its possible that the chain is loose. I would just take off the cam cover and have a look and check the timing marks align up with the LT/RT and you can see what's going on with the valvalves.
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sounds like your splurge hole is blocked in your master cylinder
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are you using the timing marks on the rotor for tdc? it should read LT (left) RT (right) with BOTH valves closed (that's inlet and exhaust) on the same side and compression is felt with your thumb over the spark plug hole. Then adjustment is made on that side If its not that, I wonder if your cam chain is loose and not adjusted out enough and then the slack is taken up via the crank turning. I would take off the cam cover (use a manual for sequence) and then you can check cam chain, mechanical adjuster and the rubber blades that go in front and back of the cam chain tunnel. While your at it you can easily check the rockers and camshaft lobes for wear.
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hi, Just a "heads up" for the VJMC classic bike show at Lotherton just east of Leeds. 10am to 4pm this sunday 29th July
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bars are 7/8" thick, pretty much standard.
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http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...iconnectors.php http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/1
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1M0 is xs250c never heard of N88 but could be aussie region specific Drewpy
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I'd disconnect each electrical item first then reconnect bit by bit and see if it blows. when it does, that is your problem
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It would help to say that you've tried all the usual options, then we don't have to make assumptions. they are the same carb type ie mikuni 34 mm so should fit yours. For a few dollars its worth a go.
