drewpy

usually to the front

very nice, couldn't stop the slide show so i can see the paint job better

If the chain and/or chain guides wear the auto tensioner would be out as far as it goes thus its possible that the chain is loose. I would just take off the cam cover and have a look and check the timing marks align up with the LT/RT and you can see what's going on with the valvalves.

sounds like your splurge hole is blocked in your master cylinder

are you using the timing marks on the rotor for tdc? it should read LT (left) RT (right) with BOTH valves closed (that's inlet and exhaust) on the same side and compression is felt with your thumb over the spark plug hole. Then adjustment is made on that side If its not that, I wonder if your cam chain is loose and not adjusted out enough and then the slack is taken up via the crank turning. I would take off the cam cover (use a manual for sequence) and then you can check cam chain, mechanical adjuster and the rubber blades that go in front and back of the cam chain tunnel. While your at it you can easily check the rockers and camshaft lobes for wear.

hi, Just a "heads up" for the VJMC classic bike show at Lotherton just east of Leeds. 10am to 4pm this sunday 29th July

bars are 7/8" thick, pretty much standard.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...iconnectors.php http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/1

1M0 is xs250c never heard of N88 but could be aussie region specific Drewpy

I'd disconnect each electrical item first then reconnect bit by bit and see if it blows. when it does, that is your problem

It would help to say that you've tried all the usual options, then we don't have to make assumptions. they are the same carb type ie mikuni 34 mm so should fit yours. For a few dollars its worth a go.

there's a company on ebay that sells carb kits and they are based in Canada. first do a search as I have posted web based suppliers before and can't be arsed typing them out again!!

you need to get a manual. It will pay for itself in no time

sounds like pre-ignition. have you checked your ignition timings?

spped and sport has one Part Number Description Model Prefix On Hand Price Add Cart 1 1J7-25850-52-00 MSTR CYLINDER ASY XS750 D 1J7 1 $198.72 check part number against you parts list first

have you tried www.cmsnl.com based in holland www.motogrid.com american www.yamahatopdog.com american www.bikebandit .com american www.nwvintagecycleparts.com/ Its really no big deal getting stuff from usa especially when the pound is so strong at the moment. I've had to use these guy's for my xs400 resto.

good to hear you got it sorted, jobs like that drive me mad with fustration!!

To quote Shakespere..... 2D or not 2D that is the question.... I forget which way round, but one model had drum brakes and no starter motor the other disk front and electric start

as far as I know the xs360 and xs400D frames are the same. don't make the mistake of using heritage/custom models as their frames are different

the rubbers should be a tight fit on the shafts and secured by bolts. motogrid do them.

I'd get it on a rolling road dyno and get a fueling curve printed off. It will tell you what you need to do and save loads of time.

another tip i've remembered, use a plastic waste pipe to hammer home the seal.

I haven't got a YB but check for a allen bolt at the bottom of the sliders. you need to break them fast or they'll turn and then you have to make a tool to hold a nut the other side ( a very long tool).

I use a tyre lever and rag to stop any indents in the alloy and a LITTLE heat to soften the rubber. If its really low drill a hole and screw in a self tapper for some thing to pull up on. I'm assuming you have taken off the stantions.

YPVS is solinoid operated via electronics and is used to enhance low rpm ie shortens the exhaust length. It can stick but the whirring you hear is the checking system.