drewpy

lester was a british aftermarket wheel supplier in the 70's, so the wheel could be for anything. being 19" I assume xs650 xs750? I'll look at some old mags to see if i can find any info

I've had loads of probs with the tips of the adjuster snapping off by heavy handed butchers. so i have had to drift out the needle tips thus opening up the jet. not had a problem with slow running as the new needles can close up and compensate for the amount of widening hope that helps edit: i hope we are talking about the pilot system situated top front of the carb via the pilot screw!!

could be 33, 34 or 35mm which is measured out side diameter. it has nothing to do with the springs, you need to take one out to measure it just done a google search and this came up http://xs500.org/XS500e.htm

ignition works by providing 12v to primary and an earth, contacts/cdi then interupts the earth but the current now has nowhere to go except to secondary and then jump the gap of the spark plug as this is the easiest path. maybe you can interupt the earth to create a spark at the plug. ( not too long as the coil heats up) i would suspect either a faulty earth on the cdi or the cdi itself.

I get a screeching noise when I start my bike up!....its usually next door neigbours complaining its 7am sunday morning seriously, sounds like the starter gear is starting to wear, you can buy kits from granby's. there are no tappets in an SR it uses an OHC configeration, is the rattle a tapping noise which rises with the revs? or is it a general clatter (thinking clutch basket!) losing power could be any thing but I'm inclined to think its a fuel supply problem either tak full of crud and/or carb getting partially blocked every now and then

you need to cap the inlet stubs as it will draw too much air. these use mikuni Constant Velocity carbs, which use diaphrams to raise or lower the main needle via the engine induction which gives a smoother response. the throttle cable merely opens a butterfly valve in the carb. you use the stubs on the rubber inlets to balance the carbs

I think its called a "cobalt drill bit" which is well 'ard and did my 3 disks and is still going.

I used a bench pillar drill (£30 from Aldi) and an expensive drill bit for stainless. takes bloody ages though!

the key to good starting singles is technique and spot on ignition and valve timing

thats earth again, as the indicator hasn't got a proper earth it uses the +'ve on the lamp to get to earth and makes a circuit (you see it on cars where the indicators come on when the brakes are used).

Iv'e drilled mine and added an extra disk a la XS1100. disk patterns here https://macshot.de/rd/brakediscs.html

you can get them re-hard chromed by philpots or fitforx to original spec. they cost about £100 for both! have you tried motoward, msnl or motolink?

won't fit

try some straight "Vincent" bars that may offer a compromise?

hopefully I'll going again with my XS

why don't you weld on nails and pull out with a slide hammer? that's what the body shop boys do, its easy and it may pull the dent completly if the metal ain't stretched.

Early this morning at 1am my wife must have farted again. I know this as it felt like an earth quake. hope she didn't affect anyone else in the UK?!

them's the guys, the kits are comprehensive and I got needle and the air corrector jets etc in mine. 80% of engine failures are due to electrics according the the AA. I figure that would be the easiest to eliminate first then go for a thorough carb clean (ultrasonic) and new carb kits from sirrius. I can't see why you would need a larger pilot jet due to weather, its altitude which affects carburetion (ie air density) and then there are not many roads 1000's of feet up. try a plug chop to confirm.

there's someone in Leigh, lancs that has one and i met him last year at Lotherton Hall bike show. I'd have to see my friend who had some pipes made for him as i'm sure it was the same guy!

check your condensor, by viewing the contacts (if you have them that is) if they are sparking, condensor gone.(happened to my friend who thought it carbs and it was 6k revs problem. sounds also like your pilot drillings are blocked as they operate the bike up to 4k. get a couple of carb kits from sirius online, they are in canada but excelent service. THey are also on ebay. try bikebandit.com for xs as they have tons of OEM stock

don't know, unless you buy some time on a rolling road, which I don't think would be worth it unless its done for free.

sometimes they had different jets for each side. could also be smaller to pass emissions test for type approval, so #45's could be for optimum performance

these send your footpegs rear wards so you are more lying down than crouched. For the benefit of other readers; http://www.raask.se/ind-eng.htm a lot of peeps modify other, more modern bike's footpegs as they are basically rear sets. Also look at your frame and see if it has a similarity with say xs650 RD400 or sr500's that would be your starting point. (if you want to go that way of course) you are turning your bike into a cafe racer BTW! http://www.caferacermotorcycle.com/index.php

Its the leaning on your wrists that get painful after a bit, you go faster and the the wind pushes on your chest relieving the pressure. also you may find the standard footests too far forward as you will be basically crouching as you ride. you may need RAASK rear-sets (

Also check fuses, as they can corrode and prevent electrical contact. Take each one out and rub with wire wool on fuses and inside clips