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drewpy
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Everything posted by drewpy
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you can get it from www.frost.co.uk
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I use and recommend PJ1 as i used these for my engine casing and is really resistant to petrol WHEN CURED!! ie heated in an oven. for a tank I would be inclined to go for 2 pack or whatever its called nower days (i think 2 pack is old hat now coz 1 painter laughed at me when I mentined that!) get a reputable painter to do it. My tank was original but my painter laquered over it and after 2 years theres not even a blister around or under the fuel cap!!
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i ended up in a right shit hole!!!!
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you'll find other xs650's had rear 19" wheels same as xs750/850/1100. xs400 and rd's had 18" front and back
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XS Triple Frame & Engine Numbers Model Serial Number Year XS750D 1J7-000101 1976 XS7502D 1J7-100101 1977 XS750E 1J7-220101 1978 XS750SE 1J7-300101 1978 XS750F 1J7-240101 1979 XS750SF 1J7-350101 1979
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you didn't flick the cut off switch when you kicked it over did you?
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unless your fat arse like me!!
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check its not running at 45' ie too lean!!!
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the thing with a kick start is that is only turns the engine over 1/2 at a time whereas the electric boot can keep the motor spinning. could try bump starting to get the engine turning! clutch slip will affect the engine starting, as that is the only thing that connects to the gearbox and hence the kick start. electric start is direct on the crank.
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very nice Merv, hope she goes as well as she looks!! ( or is that a he!)
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could strip down the carbs and check for blockages, check also your rubber manifolds for cracks.
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"plop" is the sound of my crap hitting the bog water, "thump" is what i do to the kids when I'm trying to watch MotoGP
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sounds like carb diaphrams either perished, hard or holed. also check the slides move freely and drop with a "clonk"
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Sounds like an earth problem. indicator lamps usually have separate earths and pulling the clutch makes an earth conract.
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I used a plastic waste pipe as its just the right size, keep the seal on the bottom. and drift the bearing into place after warming up.
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1. by all means check the rod, as if it is bent you will have clutch problems 2. zerk? I assume you mean nipple? whereabout is it? 3. do the forks yourself, 20w oil use an impact driver to take off the lower screws (1 either side) and pump forks till all the oil is expelled. fill up with correct amount. I'd let the shop do the master cylinder, although I've seem a couple on NOS ebay which would be cheaper!!
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is it just slight oil vapour or is it puffing out like a chimney?
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I was thinking more like 50 psi, as that is what I did my carbs. 100psi will be too dangerous as it can pierce the skin along with the other bits of crud. My little compressor can only make 60 tops.
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what certain things?
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69mm is quoted as standard, so iwould assume you are on standard. the overbores go up in .25mm increments
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i'd say high pressure is best to shift the crud. just be careful
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that's a good tip Joe, no basket ball needles but plenty of football ones
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your not too wrong when you say marbles. the starter drive behind the rotor works by having 3 small dowls which are sprung in towards the crank and are at an angle so they can free run when the starter turns off and the engine fires up. Its these buggers that flat off over time and start to slip. you need to get new dowls and springs from yamaha (you need 3) this relates to the xs400 and I'm sure they are the same for the 500.
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LOL I forgot to mention the vaseline
