drewpy

most peeps gp to central wheel components in Brum, I bought my stuff from them but had a local guy build the wheels for £20 each wheel( he also does the manx GP nortons and other race bikes) Wyldes also do rims and spokes. to be honest there is very little difference between them all as they all talk to each other so go for the nearest one. You may want to go to Stafford in October for the jap classic bike show, loads of suppliers there (inc central) and you could pre phone them and take your wheels to be done!!! drewps

I think you need to get back to basics in order to eliminate the cause: fully charged battery (and is charging), valves adjusted; timing adjusted, fuel flows into carbs freely, check all connections (use contact cleaner or ACF50) try pickup coil it should be 700+/- 150 ohms The high revving is due to a weak mixture on pilot jets/air leaks; check by spraying wd40 on the manifolds and listen to the engine revs. make sure the new coils are for electronic ignition, I'm sure that the ratings are different as its in the way the power to the coils are delivered. you really need to get the loom sorted, try a secondhand one off ebay would be the easiest option!!

sounds like coils are heating up and failing. check your manual for the OHM readings

looks specific to the model and has the 12r prefix to confirm this. There are pleanty of xs400 main stands on ebay in USA for you to choose from, also make sure that you have the lugs to fit the stand drewps

Hi, I am answering this from my works comp (naughty, naughty) I have spoke front and rear fitted by myself last year. the hubs are from an xs250 (uk) and are disks front and rear in fact i have the xs1100 setup on the front (god help xs1100 owners coz they aren't super brilliant although I can just lock up the front tyre on a 380lb bike, never mind a 600lb 1100!) don't expect a quick responce from me as my home pc is currently full of viruses.

eh? XS's are parallel twin (250 to 500cc), triples (750 to 850)or four cylinder (1100) http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp for model spec

the weren't even marked just generic ones

down load manual here http://www.files.pioneerx.co.uk/index.php?...torbike%20Files

I'd go for the swing arm bushes and upgrae them to bronze. Easy to check, bike on main stand and wiggle the rear side to side any play more than 1mm! = worn.

I just bought aftermarket ones and they fitted and look the same, so I assume that the ones from Mikes XS will too.

pilot system blocked, do a search as its been talked to death

cool, get that seat done asap and check the seat pan for rust while you are at it!!

no!!!!

its a common mod and actually helps hot gases to escape. used in race cars as well as bikes

sometimes when you are bleeding brakes, the fluid just pushes out and then pulls back in. try getting an assistant to lock off the bleed valve when the lever is pulled in. also tying the brake lever overnight lets the air rise into the resevoir. BTW is the splurge hole unblocked as this prevents the fluid return and causes brakes to stick. My complete method is what chris pearson does (CMM) run a tube from the bleed nipple and wire it into the resevoir then the fliud has a return circuit and is very effective as no air can re-enter the system and any air left, can rise to the resevoir.

I personally would'nt bother. you would need; drill out the blank on the engine, fit a new bigger amp battery, solinoid, starter chain tensioner mount, starter ring gear behind the stator, starter switch, h/duty cabling and chain. drewps

need to use it, rings will be stuck and to unstick you keep the engine going. carbs will have deposits in them and are a bugger to shift make sure the battery is charged and serrvice the complete engine including timing

yea, I took scouts to lake windermere for a week!! bloody knackered now. xs360c vs xs360-2D no D model that was for the 400 front brake C = disc brake 2D=drum main stand, rear foot rest, starter motor, starter switch flasher self cancelling system fitted on C. 2D =none fitted battery C = 12V, 12Ah. 2D = 12V,7AH 2D serial number starting from 1T6-000101 BTW

650's have different exhaust angles so would not work. you can get stainless down pipes made up (mate paid £60 for his) and take it from there if you so desire.

did you recharge your battery? the handlebar run switch isn't turned off is it?

saw it on British Eurosport channel, it has the best commentary than any other channel.

go to Stafford show ground in october for the CMM classic bike show, there more bikes there than your legs will allow to visit!!

hey man don't give up, try here http://www.tr1.de/ german but speak english Drewps

you can still get the kits from yamaha, but they are expensive (£45 2 years ago) although I did buy a kit from Uttoxeter VJMC show for a £5. http://yamaha.motogrid.com/pages/parts/vie...d/2/yamaha.aspx still do them $62 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m8254sch214280 for same price have you cleared the slurge hole? its a tiny thing and you will need a pin to clean!!

I've tried 10w 40 and didn't like it (or rather the engine didn't) i use 20w 50 semi synthetic , its probably a bit OTT but I only change my oil once a year so this oil stays clean throughout and doesn't slip the clutch. (millars sport) fork oil, I use 20w (I'm 16 something stone ) chain and sprockets from ebay the cheapest, or motogrid, bikebandit in USA. for 360 I would keep to the standard gearing! drewps