drewpy

cool, get that seat done asap and check the seat pan for rust while you are at it!!

no!!!!

its a common mod and actually helps hot gases to escape. used in race cars as well as bikes

sometimes when you are bleeding brakes, the fluid just pushes out and then pulls back in. try getting an assistant to lock off the bleed valve when the lever is pulled in. also tying the brake lever overnight lets the air rise into the resevoir. BTW is the splurge hole unblocked as this prevents the fluid return and causes brakes to stick. My complete method is what chris pearson does (CMM) run a tube from the bleed nipple and wire it into the resevoir then the fliud has a return circuit and is very effective as no air can re-enter the system and any air left, can rise to the resevoir.

I personally would'nt bother. you would need; drill out the blank on the engine, fit a new bigger amp battery, solinoid, starter chain tensioner mount, starter ring gear behind the stator, starter switch, h/duty cabling and chain. drewps

need to use it, rings will be stuck and to unstick you keep the engine going. carbs will have deposits in them and are a bugger to shift make sure the battery is charged and serrvice the complete engine including timing

yea, I took scouts to lake windermere for a week!! bloody knackered now. xs360c vs xs360-2D no D model that was for the 400 front brake C = disc brake 2D=drum main stand, rear foot rest, starter motor, starter switch flasher self cancelling system fitted on C. 2D =none fitted battery C = 12V, 12Ah. 2D = 12V,7AH 2D serial number starting from 1T6-000101 BTW

650's have different exhaust angles so would not work. you can get stainless down pipes made up (mate paid £60 for his) and take it from there if you so desire.

did you recharge your battery? the handlebar run switch isn't turned off is it?

saw it on British Eurosport channel, it has the best commentary than any other channel.

go to Stafford show ground in october for the CMM classic bike show, there more bikes there than your legs will allow to visit!!

hey man don't give up, try here http://www.tr1.de/ german but speak english Drewps

you can still get the kits from yamaha, but they are expensive (£45 2 years ago) although I did buy a kit from Uttoxeter VJMC show for a £5. http://yamaha.motogrid.com/pages/parts/vie...d/2/yamaha.aspx still do them $62 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m8254sch214280 for same price have you cleared the slurge hole? its a tiny thing and you will need a pin to clean!!

I've tried 10w 40 and didn't like it (or rather the engine didn't) i use 20w 50 semi synthetic , its probably a bit OTT but I only change my oil once a year so this oil stays clean throughout and doesn't slip the clutch. (millars sport) fork oil, I use 20w (I'm 16 something stone ) chain and sprockets from ebay the cheapest, or motogrid, bikebandit in USA. for 360 I would keep to the standard gearing! drewps

i'd change it after 1500 miles along with a oil filter

see my post above to test

bike oil is specifically blended for bikes, and has different properties than motor oil which has a much easier time over longer service intervals. I'm asuming that, because it is produced in much smaller quantities, it tends to be more expensive.

you can actually mix different grades of fork oil to get another grade ie 10w + 30W to get something between 10 and 30 depending on the ratio's. BTW dont ask I don't know the ratios

cheeky bugger

they are the same bushes as the RD, i had to get mine reamed out though for the pivot

phone motoward, they will have them in stock

the swing arm shouldn't move at all (well, except up and down! ) which sounds like the bushes have worn and the tension is pulling the swing arm over. a new chain is £20, but you really need to get new sprockets at the same time to minimise chain wear. there will always be a tight spot and that is where you adjust the chain so it's not over tightened and doesn't strain the output shaft. it's 20mm movement on the XS.

what "spings" to mind, and I won't keep you in suspension, is that I use 20w fork oil and fill it 6" to the top of the tube. (forks fully compressed with the spings removed) The motor oil option performs badly as i belive that the oil foams and thus reduces it damping properties. wurth (german) and hagon (british) do an uprated progressive sping option if you want less dive. a 400 front end will fit yours if you want disks, but offer out the drum front end as lots of peeps are after those to do cafe racer/bobber bikes!! don't forget that you had a spoked front wheel and, unless you can get a 250 spoked front hub, you will have a front alloy wheel!! hope I didn't put a "damper" on things!!

woo yay good 1

considering neutral is between 1st and 2nd yes you are being too light on it. wear bike boots help as trainers are too soft over the toes. I occasionally get caught out, especially if I hare to down shift quickly at roundabouts