rf9rider

Just to add, if you want to keep your bike "original", you can rebuild the Ace motor into the YZF750 engine casings, so you keep your engine number, and then who`s to know what the actual cc is? And the 750 six speed gearbox will also fit both motors, as the Ace has only 5 gears. All depends on how much work you want to do. I`ll look to see if i have any pics of the conversion for you.

Not sure about what he meant by saying you need the downpipes, carbs and thermostat? You need a complete Ace motor with Ace downpipes, as they are a different size to the 750. You also need to extend the bottom rad mounts as the Ace downpipes stick out forward about an inch more than the 750 ones. All YZF750 frames are the same, the rear engine mounts are identical to the Ace, but you will need to alter the front as the Ace motor IS 10mm higher, so the holes will not line up. I`ve had a few YZF750`s, one with an FZR1000 motor in it, and another had the Ace engine in, never had it dyno`d, but would keep up with the older R1`s and Gsxr`s etc. I used the complete Ace wiring loom with Ace ecu, didn`t want to over rev the motor by using the YZF750 ecu. Its definately worth the effort.

It won`t fit straight in, the Ace engine is 10mm higher, so you need either to have the frame spars cut off and rewelded in the right position (easiest way), or make brackets, but then you need to start shaving metal off the head to allow for the thickness of the brackets to allow the sprockets to line up. The standard Ace airbox won`t fit under the tank (10mm higher) so you`ll need to either mount the tank higher or fit K&N`s or similar, then probably a bit of dyno time to get it set up right. The ecu`s are different, the 750 allows the engine to rev higher than the Ace, so best to stick with complete Ace electrics. Everything else is straightforward, rad and headers fit ok. Sounds a lot of work, but worth the effort.

If you want to keep it original, a cheaper option might be to get another decent motor and have that rebuilt into your original engine casings, that way you could keep the original engine number. Sounds like its going to be fairly expensive whichever way you go.

Thats an after market gear change, made by raask. I had a set on my RF900. Google raask rearsets, should find some, a lot cheaper than most other makes.

If you want original, try here http://www.facomsa.com/

You`ll need to buy a complete lockset, probably expensive from a main dealer or try Ebay. Most proper locksmiths will be able to cut a key to suit the lock, my brother had one cut to fit his bike, just needed to remove lock and leave it with shop.

Send these an Email, they say they can supply any decal kit. http://www.bikedecals.co.uk/

Have a look here, might be of some help to appeal against the ticket. http://www.appealnow.com/

and giving gas and letting the clutch go slowly while pressing the rear brake to control the speed to cross over the road like i was taught on my cbt... You were taught to use the rear brake while accelerating out onto a junction? Never heard of that before. Would have thought throttle control was the best for that.

Look similar to Thunderace carbs

google Airtech-streamlining and Sharkskinz and Beasley Composites. All in the USA, but the only place i know to get fairings etc.

When laquering over decals, give it a couple of very light coats first, if you try to put thick coats on, the laquer will probably lift the edges of the decals. The lighter coats will seal the edges of the decals, preventing the laquer getting underneath.

I use Halfords finishing compound to bring up the shine. Its available in an aerosol. I`ve just resprayed my bike, though this time of year, i`d leave it a couple of weeks to harden properly, unless you have a proper heated spray booth.

No. The Ace engine mount holes are 10mm higher, so you need to make brackets or alter the 750 frame spars so the holes line up.

I`m afraid its a common problem, requires a complete engine strip down. Have a look through here. http://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/

Here you go mate. I`ve bought chain and sprockets from here, no probs and good prices. http://www.jtsprockets.com/52.0.html?&...uid=2305&p=

Jim, most of the bluespots are a pig to bleed. Best tip i`ve found with mine, is to back bleed them, you need a syringe set up, you pump the fluid into the nipple on the calipers until the master cylinder is full, then bleed them as normal. You could try taking the calipers off the mounts, then turn them round/upside down, this sometimes dislodges the trapped air. Also, try bleeding the master cylinder, loosen the bolt that holds the banjo bolts where it fits into the master cyl, then pump a few times, as air can get trapped there. Make sure you have rags underneath as you don`t want brake fluid on your paintwork.

Don`t know the code but i`m sure its called Yamaha Pearlescent White. Google "RS paints", they are very helpful with bike paints, and should have what you want.

Sounds like the emulsion tubes are worn, they go oval shaped after time.

Most Yamahas i`ve owned had a plug for the alarm near the rear light.

The Dynojet Power Commander plugs inline with your bike’s stock fuel injection system. It uses OEM (original equipment manufacturer) style connectors making installation easy and quick. The PCIIIusb allows a full range of fuel adjustment, as much as +/- 100% over stock. Adjustments can be made either with a Windows based computer or by using the face plate mounted button adjusters. No permanent changes are made to the bike’s system. Once the unit is removed the bike reverts to its stock settings

If you want to upgrade your brakes, use a set from an R1 or R6, 1999 to 2002, not the later radial ones. These are better than Cat or Ace ones as they are one piece construction, rather than two halves bolted together like on the Cat or Ace, they`re easier to bleed as well as they don`t have the link pipe where the air gets trapped. Braided lines will help as well as decent HH pads. Cheapest place is Ebay.com (USA) Got my goldspots from there for £30 including delivery! The goldspots are better as they have lighter internals, less prone to seizing and seem to work better.

The early and later FZR1000`s are totally different. Different motor, different frame etc. I don`t think the swingarms are interchangable without some serious modding.

Did this to my last YZF. I used shorter dogbones, raising rear end about 1 1/2 inches (35mm) It doesn`t really make the bike handle any better, it just makes the front end steer quicker when tipping into corners, also makes the bike more "agressive" looking. I got mine from a friend on another forum who makes them from stainless, then polishes them for you! I`m sure the FZR1000 standard size dogbones will raise the rear end the same as the stainless ones, might be cheaper than buying new?