rf9rider

Not difficult, just a little patience. You`ll need to cut the original undertail down at the back, so you`ll lose the number plate light, easy enough to put a little led light in after.

The R1 or R6 rear seat unit is a common swap on the YZF750. You will need the seat panel, seats and subframe. If you look on the Exup1000 site, there are a few pics of this done. I`m about to do the R6 rear end swap on mine shortly.

You must be thinking of the Thunderace end can, which has 3 bolts, the YZF750 standard can is NOT a 3 bolt fitment, the end can and link pipe are one piece, the link pipe is a 50mm slip on fitment.

Your starting problems with sidestand/ clutch etc is probably the cut out relay. Don`t know where it is on your bike, but thats a problem i had with both my Thunderace and YZF750. Have a look under your seat/battery area, and have a listen while you push your starter button, you will hear it click.

Keep the Exup valve whatever pipe you use, if you remove it, you will get low down flat spots, and they are very difficult to rejet to get it running right.

Different frame and bodywork too.

Replacing this bearing on the FZR1000 needs a full engine strip down, as there are bolts underneath the head that need removing to split the cases.

If i remember right, they touched at the bottom. Also couldn`t turn the bars as they hit the front part of fairing.

No mate, it won`t fit. I tried this last year, main problem is the area around the bars, you can`t get the bars to turn as the gap in the fairing is too small. It might fit with some major alterations, but then you lose the look of the OW01.

Your fuses should be in front/behind of battery. You might also have another main fuse, which is usually somewhere at the left side of battery box.

Exup valve sticking shouldn`t cause the problems your describing. Whats the mileage on the bike? If its high mileage, could be the valve clearances need doing, but these normally cause problems when bike is hot, as the valves expand and close up. Sounds more likely to be carb/jetting problems. Just re-read through, if your`e sure the carbs are ok, it could be your coils breaking down under pressure. I`d get them checked first.

Speedo problems are usually the tabbed washer in the wheel itself, the tabs that engage on the speedo drive usually break off, or get bent. You will get a reading on the clocks by just spinning the cable with your fingers as above post.

Have you had the tank off? If your getting the 8000 rev counter fault, its usually because the wire to the tank hasn`t been connected back on. Though i doubt this would be the problem with bike not starting. Is the fuel pump working ok?

The Cat has 2 fault codes that show up on the rev counter. 3000= TPS fault. 8000=Fuel level sensor fault.

The 95 YZF600 is basically the last version of the FZR600 with a different bodykit, looks similar to a YZF750. Have a look on bikepics, you`ll see what i mean.

If the bike is less than 6 months old, take it back to where you got it from and have them look at it as it must still be under warranty?

Glad you got sorted.

Are you sure the battery is ok/fully charged? If its ok, check the main fuse. If thats ok, check the big white connector block in the wiring loom under left hand side panel, these usually need a clean. Then check the wiring to ignition switch, the wiring has been known to be a problem around the headstock area, or it might even be a faulty ignition switch.

Wrong topic replied to.

R1 and R6 systems are totally different, headers won`t fit as spacing is different. Easier and cheaper to buy a complete system made for the 750. A new system without the Exup valve will require a lot of setting up on a dyno, especially with the flatsides on the SP.

Check/clean the connectors from/too the starter relay.

Lopsided fairing could be a bent fairing bracket. As for the settings, have a look through here. http://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/

No probs.

Heres a mates YZF750 frame using brackets, this is harder to do as you need to lose the thickness of the bracket from the side of the head so the sprockets align properly. If you look closely at the brackets, you can see the actual engine mounting bolts are higher.

Heres my YZF750 frame with Ace motor, with the frame spars cut off and rewelded 10mm higher.