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First one is through the Luray Virginia area and the second one is on route 33. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=89...16818&hl=en http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=26...68762&hl=en

Thanks!

My project is slowly coming together... I've installed clubman bars, removed the turn signals and rear fender, installed an LED taillight, and repainted a few misc. parts. This week it gets new tires so I can finally take it out on the road! Mileage is currently at 681

Clearer pictures with the turns removed and grips installed.

Thank you! A good side note....I GOT IT RUNNING!!! Installed the stock air box and not only did it start and run fairly smooth but I was able to take it all the way to redline! Tomorrow it gets new tires and a front brake inspection.

Here are some pictures I took tonight

****UPDATE**** Installed a different set of carbs (clean with smooth/free moving slides). Checked the plugs (they look good). Ran some Sea foam through the system while it idled. Checked the points and advance wheel, all look good and the weights move freely. --Problems I can't diagnose: The engine loses nearly all of its power right around 6k rpm (under load). (edit - from what I've been reading this seems to be a problem with running out of fuel i.e. no air filter box. I am going to install it and try again) The engine will almost die if I blip the throttle too quickly, especially at idle. Note that I am not running the stock air box or filters, if this is thought to be a cause or the throttle blip issue then I can put them on and try it again. I appreciate all and any help!!!

Seems like there could be a short in that circuit near the fuse, the short is getting the surrounding area hot enough to melt the plastic. I agree with the others that you should just update the fuse box.

There are no filters on the carbs at the moment (so I can watch the slides; no diaphragms on the early 500's) and they seem to be functioning normally. I will verify that again.

Any idea's as to why it loses power after 6k rpm? I am guessing it's timing but how off can it be untouched with 650 miles?

No leaks around the manifolds. I removed the lower cover, sprayed the jets down again with carb cleaner just to verify they weren't blocked, put some seafoam in the tank, let it idle (would only idle at 1500rpm with a hair of choke). After about 10 minutes I could give it a little gas without it spiking the revs uncontrollably. After this I was able to get it on the road and ride it around a little. It died twice at a stop and wouldn't rev past 6k (the powerband seemed to die off right around 5.5k). I'm guessing I need to have the carbs sync'd/tuned.

Manifolds seem good but I'll spray some brake clean or similar on them when I get it running to see it they are leaking. I guess I'll rip the carbs off again and verify that the pilots are clean.

Got it to fire again, usually takes a kick to get it running over the starter. It's got a poor idle (I've attempted to adjust it via the idle screw and it helps temporarily), the left cylinder seems to be running rich with the occasional miss (the exhaust pulse is weaker then the other). It will also randomly just to about 5k rpms without change.

UPDATE I rebuilt the carbs and brakes. Today the motor fired up after a few turns, a bit rough at first but eventually smoothed out and the little bit of smoke went away. Rode it up and down the street and determined that it really needs to be tuned/sync'd/jetted (no filters on the carbs). I went to fire it up again about 30 minutes later and it started but after about 15 seconds it just died and refused to start again. There is fuel (at least I can see it in the filters). My guess at first was the heat got to the coils; some folks mentioned they can start it cold but not hot. Once it cools off I will go give it another shot but is there anything I should be looking for? I will verify spark when I am out there next. I just need it to run decent so I can take it up the street to the shop on Tuesday for them to do some work on it.

Thanks!

I have been trying to see if the bolt holes line up (via pictures since I don't have a 650 to use as a reference) and they seem somewhat similar. Has this been tried before? I am guessing that it isn't possible (too good to be true). The 650 seems like a very popular engine. Thanks.

Awesome. Thanks for the info!

I need to know what tire sizes I can run on the TX, I am looking at a 100/90/19 for the front and a 120/90/18 for the rear but I have read that some use a 110 rear. Can I fit the 120?

It worked! Thanks again!

That's just fast enough to go back to the future!

Thanks Parsley, I will give that a shot once my new MC arrives! -Ryan

I can't seem to find a way to get the pistons out of my caliper. I brought them to a shop so they could use their compressed air to 'push' them out but no luck. The only thing I can think of next would be to use the master cylinder. I had them soak in some PB Blaster overnight, no change. They only have 644 miles on them. Any other suggestions?

Awesome, thanks!

Does anyone know where I can find the carb rebuild kits for the TX500?

Great! Thanks for the help. I am no in possession of the bike and I was glad to notice that when turning it over there is compression (feel it coming out the exhaust). I'm going to yank the carbs, clean them up, and hope that gets it running. Plans right now: Pirelli demon tires, new front brake pads, rebuild front master cylinder, and clubman handlebars.