racerd

Yeah, sure - I'll build my own bike. YOU can pay for it, though!!! Building from scratch is feckin' expensive. who said any thing about building your own bike and Building from scratch, by an existing one and modified it your self like i did with my mk rd 125 lc

carb, reed block, reeds, reed stops open them out, squish, porting, exhaust system, first if you change the air filter and exhaust system need to up jet the carb, then next change standard reeds for performance ones and open out the reed stops then you can port and flow the reed block then you could taper port the front of the carb, then you could port the barrel this means widening the ports and making them higher = reshaping then you could re set the squish to under 1.0 mm but this is measured with lead solder, they even do a big bore barrel also you could try a dt 80 engine and then put a big bore on the 80cc engine

you can get the standard 10w00 barrel liner taken out and get the barrel re linered to a bigger size then you need to get the cylinder head machined to match the bore size then get the squish re cut

how much do you want for your ypvs barrel you could put a rd lc barrel on the dt engine

what size piston kit did you put in you can go up to 2.00mm and 2.50mm over size then the power valve needs altering so the piston and rings dont hit the power valve

what set up are you running ie tuning

what tuning have you had done to your dt

you could try a bigger carb, open out the reed stops, port and flow reed block, port the barrel, set the squish to under 1.0mm, cone or high flow foam filter, spacer tube, taper port the front of the carb, performance exhaust, spark plugs br9ev/eg/egv, non resistor plug cap

in what way do you mean, what is wrong with tuning in any form,, you ruind their original designs! this is down to production time so handi if you want a faster bike and then if you can not tune them then you have to buy a bigger bike

you will need the crank cases from a tzr 125 engine to see how the frame mounts line up then go from there

how much do you want for your 80lc

when you get a rebore done if you go more than 0.50mm over size piston kit then you need to re profile the power valve spool also to find out when you need a rebore you have to measure the cylinder bore and measure the piston diameter and this will let you know the running clearance and if the running clearance is to much then time for a rebore and the same if the bore has scores in

when the bike is switched off the valve should be in the closed position

When I rev it up the oil and water temp light gets brighter. this might mean the regulator rectifier is on the way out

do you mean the power valve and is the power connected to the servo

also it could be a induction leak = air leak passed the front of the carb

if you are using premix then 50 to 1 is as lean as you can go, if you are using auto lube = oil pump then you need to line up the mark on oil pump then on the carb there is a phillips head screw you undo this then turn the throttle till the indention mark is visible though where the phillips screw was

it is worth the time to change to a dt/rd 80 engine if you have the time or you could if you wanted to try and put a 125 motor in

as above

in the photo the red sealer you see the allen cap bolt that is in the middle you undo this then take the exhaust off then get a pair of long nose plyers and then turn the ypvs spool but at the same time you need to put your finger up the exhaust port chamber and when the top of the ypvs spool is flush with the top of the exhaust port chamber then this means the ypvs is fully open then you still need to keep your finger up the exhaust port while you do up the allen cap bolt but remember to reseal again as in photo

if you use a fully synthetic racing oil then go no less than 50 to 1 on the pre mix

just needs the bulb changing that lights up the speedo

a dt/rd 80 cc engine is a six speed gear box back in the day the ar boys use to put in the ar 80 cc engine because it had 6 speed gearbox you you try using a rd 80 lc motor in your frame, the front of the standard carb can be taper ported, the wider the ports the more they flow and the higher the ports flow more and open and shut later also the inlet port can stay open all the time = 360 degree then the reed valve stops and starts flow also the squish needs to be under 1.0mm and you can also get the squish recut you use lead solider to measure the squish, you can change the gear ratios inside the gearbox like you do with the dt/rd lc 125, using a thicker cylinder head gasket reduces compression and squish which is a bad thing also you could try a spacer tube on the back of the carb then slide the filter on the spacer tube and remember to do up the jubilee clips to hold on spacer tube and filter you could try a ram air filter, with a k and n and s and b filters you need to use filter oil if you use the filters with out filter oil this lets dirt into the engine you could try a fully synthetic 2 stroke racing oil then you should be able to rev to 10,000 rpm or 11,000 rpm on the road with tuned 2 stroke you need to change rings and pistons more for reliability, my lc on the road revs to 11,000 rpm, and ordered in a bigger front sprocket and slightly smaller rear one this will up gear the dt one tooth bigger on the front is the same as taking 3 teeth off the back sprocket

a couple of photos showing the wheels before and after painting and polishing