clarke

Hi Ollie, As far as I'm aware you can't do your test on a bigger bike until your 21 years old(?) whilst you're a learner you can't ride any bike bigger than a 125cc. Therefore if you want to ride a 125+cc you'll have to take your test first! I did my motorbike test on a 125cc 23 months ago... Part of the reason was I was used to the 125 and the test was cheaper. I also wasn't interested in getting a bigger bike straight away. However, the I then saw the XVS 1300A midnight star and just couldn't resist. Had my 1300cc restricted to 33bhp (instead of it's 72bhp) and in a way am glad I did as it's a big jump from the 13bhp of my XVS125. Managed to get the dealer to throw the restictor kit in for free (and the removal of it for free too!). But you need be aware that restricting your bike will put your insurance UP (in my case £300). If you want a good (cheap) bike all the instructors round here use 500cc bikes for the DAS and they seem quick enough. For example, you can get an older Suzuki GS500 for around £1,000 - £1,500. What I would say is do a test sooner than later as they're introducing a new test in 2011 which sounds a bugger! This is what I was told: "3rd Driving Licence Directive (3DLD): Yes the EU has introduced another directive aimed at ‘harmonising’ the way testing and licensing happens across Europe. The 3rd Directive affects two main groups; motorcyclists and people who tow things. I thought I’d use this bit of space to try and explain what it’s going to mean for people who want to ride bikes in the UK. Basically the idea behind 3DLD is to restrict young rider’s access to the most powerful bikes. It will introduce a new category of licence, A2, which will sit between A1 and A. A1 machines will be 125cc and under, A2 will be equivalent to 33 bhp / 400cc type machines, and A will remain the unrestricted category. Riders who start riding A1 machines at 17 will have to have at least 2 years worth of experience before they can complete a test and gain access to A2 machines. They will then require a further 2 years experience (minimum) on those machines before they can do another test to gain access to category A machines. The alternative is for young people to wait until they’re 19 and do ‘direct access’ to category A2, or wait until they’re 24 and do direct access to category A machines (3DLD raises the age of direct access from 21 to 24). In theory this sounds like quite a sensible idea, ensuring that young riders gradually work their way up to very high performance machines. It doesn’t however, tackle the issue of older riders doing ‘direct access’ and going from a novice to an R1 rider in a week. Let’s be honest - however good the training school is, it’s difficult to teach years of experience in 4 days, and it’s experience that really counts when it comes to riding. It also fails to take into account the fact that one the most, if not the most, at risk group of riders on our roads are the 16 - 18 year olds on mopeds. These riders have the highest number of deaths and serious injuries. With the use of testing between each level of access, rather then training, it could result in riders learning to pass a test rather than actually learning the skills necessary to ride safely. When you consider that 3DLD is going to cost something in the region of £10m to implement and yet only a small percentage of riders will use the graduated access route (most will simply wait and go through direct access) it truly makes the mind boggle and begs the question as to whether those making policy on motorcycling have ever actually been on a bike in the first place." Hope this helps & Good luck, Graham

As for removing the battery, you should be able to remove it fairly easily though the side cover (the one that needs the key to open it). It's a bit tight but it does come out. I flattened battery not too long ago but seemed ok once recharged (which I did without removing the battery) I haven't got an optimiser (though would recommend one), just a normal bike battery charger which I charge up once every 2 months or so just to keep it topped up. Good luck Graham

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone knows any options for removing deep scratches/gouges in chrome exhausts? Is it possible to fill them with anything? Not wanting to replace the exhaust as not worth it, but thought could improve cosmetic looks... Thanks Graham

Do you mean the carburetor joint (carb to cylinders)? if so I've had recent problems = £80+ for new one: I've taken pics of me fixing mine if they'd help??? Will post if you want?

Not sure if this would help http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17610/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Nut-Splitters - nut splitter for £10...?

I thought if wing mirrors are present they have to be in good condition, but if they're not you're ok?

If mirrors aren't a legal requirement how come I saw some that looked amazing but said underneath "sadly, not road legal" - now I'm confused...

Some come with/or you can buy a 'reminder' cable that go from the lock to your front brake lever so you don't forget...

Right, am tackling this tomorrow as am off work. Been reading service manuel & it says about removing the tank "Set the fuel cock to “OFF” before disconnecting the fuel hose" only thing is, it only has RES > PRI > ON. Can anyone explain where off is? (Apologies if I'm being thick...! Thanks

This doesn't go through the 6mm holes in the disc - it goes through the large gaps in the middle of the brake disc & the body of the lock goes over the edge (like a giant 'U') - I'll post a pic of one on my bike tomorrow...

You could always get something like this http://www.getgeared.co.uk/MOTO-DETAIL_Motorcycle_Brake_Disk_Arch-Lock_11mm;jsessionid=0a010a4e1f4300acb066888b4b5a852ee8011466fe50.e3eTaxiMa38Te34Pa38Ta38MaN50?sc=30&category=-130 instead? Doesn't matter what size the holes are then...

I thought the colour was bright red... the pipes look great, will have to meet up in summer for a listen? Know what you mean about single seat & rack - she'd not be happy at all...!! I've no experience of Vista control, but these guys seem to discuss it at length: http://1300tourer.com/content/how-intall-vista-cruise-throttle-lock http://1300tourer.com/search/node/throttle+vista Good luck Graham

Thanks Paul, guess it's a good day's work then... Will let you all know how I get on Cheers Graham

Just ordered the part - joint + 2x O-rings for £80... Should have been more but they knocked 10% off then rounded it down to £80. Should have it for the weekend. Is this just normal wear and tear or could I be responsible for it cracking? Anything else I should do whilst tank off? Graham

That is one nice looking bike... the pipes look great! Will have to start saving my £££s for new air filter/processor etc... Is your red more maroon?

Thanks Paul, I have got the manual from here so will have a good read over the next week or so... I'll order a new part tomorrow then. Will probably tackle it Easter week as off work then. Think in the meantime I'll stick to using my brother's 125 Honda Shadow to go to work on... If anyone else has any experience of this would be good to hear from you. Cheers Graham

Hi all, Just noticed today my carburetor joint (the Y shaped hose that connects the carburetor & both cylinders together) has BIG cracks in it & when the throttle is twisted it bulges out!!! Guess that's why my bike has been struggling at 50mph?! Does anyone know the best solution? I'm guessing tank off & replace the joint? Anyone know how difficult this is/have any tips?? In the meantime, how likely is the bike to go bang if I keep using it? Thanks for any help Graham

Glad you're enjoying it. Post some pics of your bike when you get chance... Happy riding

Thanks! Yamaha just put the price for the bag crash bars up from around £179 to £299 one week after I bought them! Have to admit I wouldn't have paid £300 for them (even with the 10% off my dealer gives me) I could add pretty much all of your wish list to mine but the other half has banned me from anymore mods until she gets a holiday - trying to persuade her a trip to Europe on the bike is a good idea...

Finally installed RSTD bars, ISO grips, Yamaha OEM saddlebags + crash guards

Here's an update: RSTD bars, OEM saddlebags & saddlebag crash guards

Glad to hear you got sorted. Post some pics when you get them on I prefer to source local/from the UK whenever I can, but I saved over £400 on Yamaha OEM saddlebags for the 1300 by importing from the US... If Yamaha etc didn't charge so much in the UK I'd never have to look to import. I think Highway Hawk do exhausts/slip ons for the XVS125... am sure Roy can give you some options?

I seem to remember being told on my lessons to always change down through the gears ie 5-4-3-2-1 not 5-2-1. You may be best to always go through the gears to keep practise? (Would an examiner mark block shifting as a fault?) My 125 sometimes refuses to engage 1st gear normally when stationary (and having block shifted!) & have to go to neutral then first. Not sure why you need 1st for a hill unless its really steep, but most roads 2nd/3rd/4th should see you right Let us know how your oil checks out (with bike held upright & enigne warm then settled, the oil should be between two lines on sight glass as viewed from underneath the exhaust)

Hi Ian, I've just finished installing the RSTD bars on my 1300 using the guides Jim refers to. Very easy to follow & no problems at all (apart from changing oil + filter on my 125 never done anything on my bikes before). I am aware that others have put the 950 bars on their bikes with no problems - you can even use stock grips / bar ends, whereas the RSTD bars require aftermarket grips. Good luck with whatever you decide & keep us updated. Graham

That's looking very nice... I like your chrome fender tips are they OEM/highway hawk etc? Also like your chrome numberplate surround - is that a standard size numberplate? I was thinking of moving my no plate to the side... I'll post an update on my bike once I finish putting it back together - part way through installing the RSTD bars, just got the clutch grip to glue on.