nayruf

Done this a few times with my DT carb, the slide will even look like it is rising up and down because its sat on the slope that the tickover screw acts up on,

Hi It may be possible to remove the clutch cover and lean the bike over to pour the oil out, but it will be messy and you cannot be sure that all the oil has drained out. The oil that would be left behind will most likley be in the dirtiest condition, Obvious I know, I would find a way of fixing the sump plug somehow,

Hi By reading the post I get the impression that when the bike is leaned over on the side stand the motor runs ok and when the bike is stood up right the motor stutters/stalls, I don't know for sure but at a guess, it seems like the fuel pick up or fuel level in the float bowl might be partially blocked or low, but if you are running the bike with the choke out all the time I would assume that there is not enought fuel getting to the engine and an engine running lean could be running too hot, so you need to check it out a soon as you can or you might have other problems later down the road,

Hi Billy I am the other end of the 52 will keep an eye open for the haze of a RD

Show us your bits!

Hi Maybe a real dumb suggestion, does this bike have a Ballast resistor in the ignition circuit?

Hi I have a 1976 UK DT 175 1g1 (white tank red stripe) bike and the pt number for the main exhaust as you probably already know is '576-14610-01-00' the part number listed for the A and B, DT 175 main exhaust piece, I think is '443-14610-01-00' according the parts lists I have access to, I have fitted to my bike a tail pipe, which I think has the pt number, ‘437-14753-02-00’, it was from a US DT 175 B, although it fits, the point where the seal groove is on the tail pipe is in a slightly different position to my original tail pipe, So to answer to your question, I have an earlier tail pipe fitted it is not a perfect fit and it required a bit of fettling but it works ok and has passed several MOT tests, I did have to swap the triangular bracket over and twist the pipe slightly to make it clear the seat lock. The advantage I have with this earlier tail pipe is that the baffle can be removed and cleaned out. Hope this helps

I had a mini many moons ago with a similar clutch problem , it turned out that the return spring in the master cylinder had collapsed and would not return the piston, not saying this is your problem but the symptoms match,

+1, I carry one under my seat for when the weather turns bad

Hi I currently own a FJR, and this link hopefully should take you to a thread of previous posts asking similar questions

Hi Check your messages above,

Similar accident with my wifes car, she contacted her insurance co and they sorted it out, they called it a 'no fault claim' meaning that it did not affect her NCB, and the other party was deemed to be at fault

Hi I think to get a better technical response you will have to do a bit more fault finding, Such as: have you checked the head lamp bulb or sealed unit ‘whichever your bike has fitted’, have you lost both low and high beam,is there electrickery present at the head lamp plug, and have you removed the head light and checked inside the head lamp bowl to see check that the terminals which link the head lamp plug leads to the harness are connected, ‘btw’, is the DT 360 like my DT 175? The head lamp is selected with the second click on the ignition switch, and not with the L/H handle bar switch, the L/H switch set on my bike has a side/pilot light function a head lamp high/low function and the indicator selector switch, Aj

I would still consider informing the Police, a fraud is still a fraud and the person might of been trying to sell on stolen parts,

Hi Might be a silly question, Have you looked at cutting the collar/turret down or does it have to be that length?

I would have a look into getting the hub machined out and an interference fit machined liner made with an I/D that matches the O/D of the brg (perhaps from steel) then warm the hub and freeze fit the new liner, That is unless the cost is too prohibitive,

Hi I have never had that problem on mine. I would of thought that if the fuel was evapourating whilst the bike was hot and stationary then it would also suffer fuel starvation whilst ticking over intraffic, I would look to see if the 'fuel pump' and the 'fuel pump relay' are both functioning correctly, I recall that I can some times hear the fuel pump power up when I turn the ignition on,

Hi Yes you could use paint thinners, but like any chemicals paraffin included some paint thinners can also attack the elastomeric components, could affect paint finishes and even make breathing difficult,

As you already know the quantity figure on the casing is the amount of oil required to fill the gearbox from completely empty, If your bike had just had the oil drained out and if the bike was leaning on the side stand when drained, there may be a few CC’s of the old oil left, However the new oil could take time to settle and fill all the cavities of the gearbox, perhaps you could turn the gear box by hand to encourage the oil to settle then recheck the level with the dip stick, but if after running it for a short time the level is still too high its quite easy but a bit messy to drain a small amount out, I have a small syringe from a Printer cartridge refill set that I can use to draw a few CC's of oil from the casing If I ever overfill my DT,

Hi I would plug the exhaust outlets with a rag stuffed into a small corner cut from a poly bag, then I would use paraffin from an open tin and work the paraffin with an old paint brush, stand the bike over a drip tray or spread some polythene over the floor and line with old news paper, then to get rid of the greasy paraffin residue I usually brush on some ‘Hammerite’ paint thinners or spray with an aerosol tin of brake cleaning spray, whichever of the two is at hand and or the cheapest, There will be many differing techniques but this would be the way I would clean it up,

Hi I believe the manual means, that near to the filler hole the casing has the requred quantity marked/stamped/ or set into the casting, just like it reads. 'Made in Japan' marked in relief on the casing of this gear cover,

Hi Mine too, fixed now though,

Hi Foamy For my sins I was brought up in Wolves, for ride outs we used to go to North Wales, the roads are brill, and at normal speeds the coast is only 1:30 hr, Any quicker and you have to look out for the speed gestapo, on Sundays loads of bikes used to go to 'Enville Comon' but like wise so did the feds, Iron bridge is a nice ride out too, looking at your avatar at a guess I suppose you will be some where near Cosford, which is on one of the main routes to North Wales. As for kit we used to just take normal bike gear and stay in B & B's, some people use to have static caravans that we would visit over the closed months to open them up and air them out for a day or two, In between pub visits. Aj

Hi I think to remove the steering lock once the cover has been removed you need to have a key in the lock and you have to turn the key whilst in the lock until a little pin aligns up with the protrusion that is part of the casting, http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-DT125-DT175-DT250-DT400-XT250-XT500-XS360-STEERING-LOCK-ASSY-NOS-JP-/251011966319 you can see the pin in this link on ebay

Hi It does look like a condenser and it could be with the bike spares as a stand in condenser, some trials/enduro riders used to ditch the condenser in the magneto and have a condenser remotely wired out side of the magneto in the event of a breakdown/engine drowning they were able them to swap out the condenser with out removing the engine cases, when I was unable to get a correct condenser for my DT, I wired a car type condenser purchased from a general auto store remotely under the tank, this condenser had a slip on metal 'P' type clip and this was also the ground connection, Aj