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Everything posted by nayruf
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Hi good luck with the search for bits, is the air box plastic, if so you might be able to repair by plastic welding any splits or busted off bits, I have fixed a few things quite successfully using an old electric soldering iron, cable tie off cuts as filler rods and bits of old plastic such as paint trays or busted bits of old plastic dust pans, I know it sounds like a right old bodge but it can be a pretty good repair, there are some examples of how to do it on youtube,
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Hi If the pipe has gone hard with age, you could pour hot water on it to soften it, the brass oil pipe nipple/spigot on my DT carb was so tight in the pipe that it pulled out of the carb casting and it needed fettling to get it to fix back in to the carb casting.
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Hi Glad you are enjoying your bike, I don’t know the diameter of the pipe you are talking about or what material it’s made from, But a good method for blanking off smaller diameter rubber type hoses is to slide a bolt with a shaft the same size as the inner diameter of the pipe into the end so that the head of the bolt will stop it from sliding all the way in and secure it with a small jubilee type clip or a zip tie, I don’t know what this pipe is or what it is for, I can only assume it’s a pipe used to convey warm air to the air box to try to offset possible carb icing problems.
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Hi, in the past I have asked for various things to be given or gifted to me on the purchase of a bike, I have had an abus wheel lock, winter and summer gloves, discount on boots, clothing and future servicing, So though discount may not be always available in the price of the bike as far as I am concerned any bike gear equipment that they sell is not off limits, they may say no but they may want to keep another customer
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Hi If you do an internet search for a company called, ‘Partzilla’, they have various sections for most brands of Japanese bikes, If you find the part that you are looking for and select that part the next screen shows the other bikes of the same brand that use the same part, It’s not exactly full proof but so far I have been able to cross ref this way to get parts for my bike, further to my last, I have just done a quick search for the V50M and it looks like this model of yamaha is not listed. so sorry for the duff gen! that does not necessarily mean that all the parts that the site list would not be the same for your bike, such as, Brake shoes ect,
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Speedo has cracked! Can I replace and match the mileage?
nayruf replied to martynball's topic in Yamaha Workshop
Hi as a temp repair I would buy a, Tablet plastic film screen protector and cut out the shape to fit the total area of the screen, then if the screen is clean and still has a smooth flat surface the plastic flim hopfully will prevent moisture from getting into it, -
Looking at your picture, I assume the connectors cannot be relocated under the tank, Could you use a length of old inner tube to create a sock that could be cable tied either end, I can also see a leather tote type bag, is this a permanent feature on your bike, if so could it be mounted above or close enough to allow the connectors to fit through the bottom of the bag? If I was going to use a box, before I made anything I would look at perhaps using a small food container with a tight fitting lid, I was able to fit the workings of a flasher unit into a plastic glove pot that I pinched from my wife’s hair dye kit,
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I have an fjr that fits the bill, but I do miss my 900 divi and would go back to it with a luggage kit,
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Hi 2500 cm3?? this volume would be way too much for a normal bike, I think it reads 250 cc and the first 'C' looks like a 0, post a pic and it will be easy to identify. With 250 cc on the side of the motor case, I guess it is for the volume of oil in the case, though thats a low quantity too!! The motor engine size is normally on the cylinder of the bike. my bike has 171 cc on the cylinder and 650cc on the engine case
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I am probably wrong. I thought the wire mesh stone guards were ok in the UK, I recall seeing some new Triumph street scramblers with them fitted, they are such a fine mesh that they dont block out much light, http://www.britishbikebits.com/headlamp-stone-guard-7-bsa-triumph-norton-etc
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I may be wrong,I have not checked the wiring on my bike, but I thought that handlebar components are often grounded to the bars and the bars are grounded to the fork clamps which are connected to the head lamp ears and then the bolts mounting the ears to the head lamp are grounded to the wiring harness behind the head lamp, I have seen ground connections at the headlamp bolts, I am sure my DT has its indicators and kill switch grounded this way. before going to the trouble of making up wiring I would check this out first, you could check continuity from the handle bars to the frame,
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Hi I don't bother with fuel draining I run the bikes up once a month, once the bike is clean and dry I do use a very low wattage greenhouse heating tube under my FJR dust cover, for my DT I take the battery off and keep it warm so the cold cannot get at it,
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Hi Removing the rear wheel gives you chance to carry out a mini overhaul of all the components that you would not be able to get to in normal day to day use So with the back wheel off for the chain and sprocket change, I would look at some of but perhaps not all of the following items I would check visually the wheel bearings, axle, and spindle for corrosion and wear applying grease in appropriate areas to ensure adequate lubrication is present, Also I would check the sprocket hub for excessive play in the cushion drive rubbers if the bike design uses them, With the wheel off it can be cleaned more thoroughly and the braking system can be inspected and cleaned/lubricated where needed including between spokes and in the centre of the wheel, Also the swing arm can be inspected looking for corrosion (which can be touched up) and play in the swing arm bearings, Twin shocks can be cleaned and checked more easily also the lower links on a single shock can be cleaned inspected and greased is needed, The centre stand can be cleaned and inspected too, even the underside of the mud guard can be cleaned too, The area around the gearbox sprocket could be cleaned and inspected looking for possible leaks around the output shaft, When I work on my bike or even clean it things can snowball, I cleaned my FJR last week and ended out taking off and re-greasing all the rear suspension pivots, So my carryings on can be a bit OCD.
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Hi Having read and re-read the posts Carb = check, Tank = check, Ignition/timing = check, Condenser/points = check, Battery = check charged, Compression = check, Coil = check, Kill switch short = maybe? Apprehensive about suggesting this as it may be a bit silly, so going on the assumption of there are no silly questions only silly answers, Would it be possible for the exhaust or intake side of things to have some kind of restriction maybe an old rag or some internal packing slowly creating a restriction?
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Hey Sorry to read this, hopfully the car uses the same piece of road each day, you may be able to find the sod, get well soon!!
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Hi, anywhere near Grantham?
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Hi, Just a note, have you looked into having the existing tank refurbished, there are some places advertised in various publications that will cut out damaged areas scour the tank out and weld them up as good as new, some will coat the tank inside and paint the tank on the outside, I was given a ball park quote of £200 for my DT tank with a two week turnaround I just for the life of me cannot recall where from,
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Hi, I have pretty much the same bike, I aquired it for the exact reasoning as you, it is still a pretty fun bike on our local roads, providing an appointment is booked when stopping. its not too slow through town and been through two engine builds but is still mostly original
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Hi As a temporary fix, Could you take out the hinge pin, slide a piece of longer pipe up the centre of the foot rest tube, re shape the end then drill through using the original holes as a guide, replacing the pin to hold them in place, just a thought.
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Hi, I went one tooth up from standard on my 1g1 dt 175 front sprocket, however I had fitted a TY trials gear shift out put cover using the supplied allen socket head screws, the screw sockets are taller than the original cross head and one of them would rub on the chain, I had to reuse one of the originals, I am at work and I cannot remember the amount of teeth, but can check later today if you want.
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This is my 175 C, an oily rag renovation at best mostly standard seat shocks and bars are not original , but still zips through our local town ok, I have had it apart a number of times and am always looking for the odd bits and pieces for it,
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My 1976 DT 175 has an air filter with a ‘prism’ shaped plastic frame and the actual filter membrane is a sponge material shaped sock that fits over it, the filter sponge had rotted away, I purchased a square sheet of filter sponge from my local auto spares shop and made my own filter membrane sock stitching it together with a needle and thread, it has performed without fault, if your bike has a frame support for the filter membrane would it be possible to do the same? It was supposed to be a temporary fix but has lasted over 3 years so far. as to parts from other yamahas fitting your bike, search for a US site called partzilla on google, you will be able to locate part numbers for most yamaha parts, when you have found the part number it also lists other yamaha models that the parts should fit. I had a quick look for your seat but it only listed a few models that share a similar seat
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Hi Do these chains need replacing because they are worn, rollers/side plates/rivets and do the sprockets show signs of wear, or are the chains being replaced because they have reached the limit of adjustment, if it’s the latter could these new chains be too long and have too many links to start with. When the chain has been replaced did you have to slack the adjusters back to the beginning of the scale? Just a thought