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Hi Mike I have a twinshock DT175 and it has 5 gears not 6, I don't know if the later MX has 6 I think It might. I have noticed that although the DT and TY share some engine parts there are subtle differences, email this place as they specialise in refurbing the DT range of bikes, If I was looking for a good off/on road bike of the type you suggest I would buy a DT175 MX 1979 onwards

Is this what you are looking for, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-RD-250-350-RD350LC-NOS-CARBURETOR-CHOKE-PLUNGER-/250697469225?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a5ebbcd29 Try this place too http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/products-cold%20start%20kits.html I think that the item might be the same for nearly all Yamaha Mikuni carbs,

Hi I am flattered with your response to the wobbling Diversion problem in the previous, I am an engineer with experience in all forms of vehicles but judging from your previous investigation, and assuming that all else in the electrical system is standard and has been checked for its integrity, I can only suggest that you follow a procedure of elimination, perhaps if you could use a breakers yard(vehicle dismantlers) and substitute the control unit for another, It may be better for you to start another thread as there are some very knowledgeable Yamaha technicians that use this site, I will keep an eye open for any related information so long as the thread stays active, In 40 thousand miles my Diversion only had a fuel tank sender unit fail and that was its only fault, I hope you find the fix and post it for others, thats why a fresh thread would be helpful. Sorry I cannot be much help. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-XJ-900-Diversion-ECU-CDI-Electronic-Brain-XJ900-/270381909945?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ef40487b9 I don't know where you live but there is one here for £52.00

Hi, This mudguard (http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.asp) Should be the one for the smaller diameter wheel. I think the wheel diameter was 19", and this is the type of mud guard that is like rocking horse Sh*t to find. the same design was also used on the DT125/175 but the mudguard was slightly bigger to fit over the 21" wheel, I would love to find a better one for my bike, so I just keep looking on E-Bay and going to auto~jumbles in the hope I can find one, but please note the fixing lugs on the fork lowers as this is where this type of mudguard fits

Hi, If your DT100 is like the Twin shock DT 100 that was sold in the UK there is a low mudguard that was fitted to the UK bike, the mudguard used the mount lugs situated at the top of the alloy fork leg, the mudguard used 3 support stays 2 on either side on the front and a wrap around one to support the rear of the mudguard, the mudguard came in two sizes one size was for the DT100 with the small diameter wheel and the other was for the DT175 which had a 21" diameter wheel, the problem is that these mudguards are like rocking horse sh*t to get, you might be better using a mudguard from a TY 80 or TY 125/175. http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.aspx ~ http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic-bikes-2/yamaha-ty80-gallery.php ~ http://stores.ebay.com.au/Classic-Pre65-and-TY-Trials-Shop A chrome option I have never seen,

Hi, I had the same problem with the indicators on my twin shock DT, I put lower wattage bulbs in the fronts, and the lowest wattage indicator instrument bulb I could find in the speedo/tacho, I manage to get the indicators to flash at about a rate of 60 per/min, I think the legal requirement is 60 to 120 per/min, I also fully charge the battery up prior to the mot and also turn the tickover up a few rpm, The bike has passed 3 mot's so far and the test station has not picked up on the indicators yet.

Hi, just a suggestion , Before I bought new a new jet I would lower the needle in the throttle slide, don't know if doing that would help but working on the assumption that the lower the needle in the seat the less fuel would be delivered to the engine

Hi , i have been playing with my DT carb to get it back to the original settings, I downloaded this manual http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf page 13 has some info on altitude problems, the manual might not give you the answer but the mikuni web site might give more ideas. hope this helps in a small way

Hi I had a 1997, 900 Diversion, It was always a very steady ride, absolutely no wobbles at all, So if it were my bike I would check’ • Tyres for damage and pressures, are the tyres on the rims with the direction arrow the right way? • Wheel balance, • Wheel bearings, • Wheel trueness, • Wheel alignment, • Steering head bearings, • Front fork leg alignment, has the bike been in a crash? • Fork tubes worn in the Fork leg lowers, Fork oil levels correct, • Brake discs for warping, • Does the bike have a top box, if so take it off and try again!! I know these are all the obvious things to check, and that you have probably already done all this, but my thought would be that a steering damper might make the bike wobble a bit less, But what faults if any would it be covering up?

Hi as you can see I have a DT 175 1976 twin shock model, For the condenser you can fit one remotely out side of the magneto, They used to do that on trials competition bikes so that it was quicker to change over the condenser at a meeting, I say this because I couldn’t find a correct condenser for my bike so this was my get out till I found the right one, Try Yam bits [email protected] http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-DT-175-IGNITION-CONDENSER-CONDENSOR-/230414699562?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35a5c94c2a

Hi As you can see I have a 1977 DT 175, My journey by the most direct route is 15 miles also but that means a 70 mph dual carriage way, I have altered the size of the G-Box sprocket by 1 tooth to get the bike to run a higher speed but it still can only just do an indicated 70 mph, a comfortable cruise speed is about 55 mph. My bike is only a twin shock so I suppose you having a 79 mx would make the bike better over that type of route. For me to use the bike every day I would have to play with points plug more often, the MX would not need the points but it would still need some extra care, I run original type trials tyres too and over the 3 to 4 thousand miles I have done on the bike as pleasure riding they have suffered from extra wear & tear on the road. I know it’s a pessimistic view but so far it has made me stick to the 4 wheel oil burner or my FJR, I would look at a 250 XT or DT of the same age. Hope I have not put you off,

Don't know about the dripping fuel, but experience tells me to check the carb slide is in the right way round, cause if its not the engine will rev its head off

Hi I have had a thought, (it don't happen often) would the combo have to be registered as a different vehicle?

Try to get a look at Classic mechanics Motorcycle magazine, the Feb 2010 ed (Honda 400Four on cover) The have some tips on fitting a new seat cover:)

Hi, I have a 70s DT 175 twin shock, to check the timing I got an old spark plug bust out the ceramics, made sure that all the ceramics had been cleaned off, I then got a longish bolt with the shank that was just the right diameter for the remaining hole in the plug, I then screwed the modified bolt/plug into the cylinder head in the centre plug hole, I rotated the engine slowly by hand, marked TDC on the bolt then made a mark at the stated mm BTDC. You have to be careful when turning the engine over so the bolt does not jam up the engine and if you use a bolt with the head still on the bolt wont fall into the cylinder, worked for me )

Hello one idea to replace your 'gas cap gasket' that I would try would be to try a vintage vehicle component supplier, take measurements of the gasket, you will need the inner / outer diameter & gasket thickness, if no joy there,with the measurements, you can go to the web and search for standard gasket sizes, There exists industry standard sizes that will allow a gasket supplier to provide the required gasket in the correct size, in 'O' ring type gaskets I think they are called 568 dash codes. you will have to select a material that will be impervious to unleaded fuels. Most likely you will need a gasket made from Fluoroelastomer or Nitrile butadiene or if you feel rich Perfluoroelastomers, alternatively you could get a sheet of the correct elastomer at the correct thickness and cut out the required shape, Hope this helps

The post is right your Yamaha agent should be able to help, If your key is like my FJR which it could be do you have a red key, I ask this because my bike has a red key that enables other keys with a chip to be re-coded, if not were you given a small rectangular dog tag with the keys (rectangle of metal about 5x15mm in size)My Divi had this tag and it had the key /lock serial number on it that would allow the yam agent to identify the key required, But as the other posts say the place to start is at Yamaha agent

As Cynic has identified that the adjustment screw is just an early hybrid design. If the clutch cable is ok, the only thing left to do is to start from the beginning as if you were setting up the clutch after a rebuild, I would remove all adjustment from the clutch cable then as Cynic said, I would adjust the screw as per his instruction, I would re-adjust the cable at the mid cable adjustment point to get the cable length correct, then I would adjust at the lever to get the free play required, If after all of this it still slipped and. ‘I WAS SURE THAT THE OIL IN THE GEARBOX WAS OF THE CORRECT TYPE AND GRADE’. I would bite the bullet and look at removing the clutch cover to examine the clutch.If you do decide to take the clutch out when you drain the gear box oil examine it for evidence of malfunction, also have a good look through the filler hole to see if there is any obvious U/S components. I would only strip the clutch out if I had ruled out all other options, I realise that this is stating the obvious ' but this would be my approach, Hope you can find the problem without taking out the clutch.

A moral to the story, is every vehicle on the road is being driven by selfish distracted morons, without exception be it two, four or eighteen wheels, pedalled motorised or pushed, I have been riding bikes since the 1970’s, I still have had mishaps, I too know the haste of getting away from the infamous Halton.

Hello MY DT 175 key switch positions are key fully turned to the left = off , one click right ignition, two clicks right igniton with head light, three clicks right ignition off side/parking lights on..

I have just looked at the photo, I find the picture confusing because the X head screw and the component it screws into look more like the neutral switch to me. My 1977 DT 175 has a lock/nut and then there is a threaded screw with a X head on it and this screws through the lock nut, it is used for initial adjustment when setting up the clutch.

Hello: I use (Castrol power1 TTS 2T) Synthetic two stroke oil In the 'autolube' tank under the seat, for the gear box I use(Halfords branded) 10/40 Motorcycle/scooter gear oil. For the gear box oil avoid motorcar oils as those oils contain friction inhibitors and other additives that will make the clutch slip

My DT 175 uses Part Number 443-81321-10-00, and the condenser is Part number: 277-81326-90-00 or Hitachi 617-214 the condenser can be hard to get, I have in the past fitted a condenser remotely under the tank, Hope this helps

Hello I have just re-sealed the tank on my DT, I used a rust eating dip that needed to be mixed with water, I plugged the tank and filled it to the top leaving a small space to allow me to shake the tank, I figured this would ensure that the mix would penetrate fully, It was left to soak for a few days and the rusty solution was further agitated using a House hold wire brush pushed through the filler hole, The brush was like a bottle brush but with wire bristles used to clean boilers , I then used ‘oven pride’ oven cleaner to remove the fuel residue and agitate this further finally I filled the tank with hot water to wash out the cleaners used and because the water was hot the heat in left in the metal of the tank helped dry out the moisture, I then dried out the tank using a hot air gun, and then I use a pet-seal tank product that consisted of a priming mix then a sealing mixture, I know I went over the top but it worked ok and the tank has stopped producing rust particles in the fuel line, the only bad bit is the colour of the coating can be seen in the tank so it is obvious that the tank has been sealed, do remember to put screws/bolts in to any threads that will come in to contact with the sealing liquid or you might spend hours re cutting sealant out of the threads, Hope this helps.

I have a 77 dt 175 twin shock with the bulb blow problem. from this E-Bay seller in the UK I brought a new regulator same as the XT 500 6 volt (pattern part)and a rectifier. Now with a fresh battery I run a 35/35 watt 6 volt bulb, the charging system works great, This was my way out with a similar problem might be worth a try, small items so postage was not expensive. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-6-VOLT-AC-VOTAGE...id=p3286.c0.m14