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Hi The wheel bearings can be removed using a bearing puller, However the bearings can probably be pushed out from the inside, If you rock the inner spacer/sleeve to one side you can use a copper drift to gently tap out the bearing from the inside, you may need to warm up the wheel hub and be sure that there are no bearing retaining devices such as cir-clips, When removing the bearings this way I would replace them with new ones as the bearings are not specifically designed to have side loads applied. Have a look on You Tube under (motor cycle wheel bearing removal), Most of the people use a screw driver as a drift I would use a soft metal drift(copper), You tube also has clips showing people using bearing pullers,

Hi Congratulations on the test another motorcyclist is always a good thing, About the MT-03, nice bike but for only 12 miles a day I would also get a ‘ragamuffin’ bike for hacking through the traffic, I would keep the MT-03 for looking flash. Its what I do with my FJR and DT, Only problem the DT is getting more valuable each year and its parts are getting scarce.

Hi My DT has also gone through an extensive rework, Replacement Mag coils, new rectifier, new battery and new regulator, when the indicators are on all other lights that are on will go bright and dim in counter time with the indicators flashing , I have tried lowering the bulb wattage in the indicators and have cleaned all the other earth points as well as directly connecting the indicator earths to the battery, the other lights are still affected, I have even searched the web looking for 6 volt LED bulbs as I think they will not require as much power, I cannot find any, I now believe that this is a problem that I will have to live with, I do recall that a friends and my original DT that we were riding in the seventies were both the same, If my bike ever fails its MOT because of this I think I can remove the indicators as they are not expected to be fitted on a bike of its age, If I find a solution I will try to remember to put it in a post

I used engineers blue and made a 1.8mm wide line in it which was measured with a vernier caliper, Timing is critical if the timing is wrong the engine will suffer, In my case I am confident that the ignition timing is correct and the bike runs very well, I just make sure that the advance mechanism in the magneto is properly lubricated and has not worn, Mr Mervin is correct a Dial gauge is one of the most reliable ways of measuring the piston height but access with the engine in the frame and the exhaust still fitted was too tight for my dial gauge to fit, so I improvised,

Hi To check the timing on my DT175 Twin Shock, I broke out the ceramic parts of a spark plug, cut the earth electrode tang off and cleaned up the remaining metal part, I then got a long bolt that would fit the resulting hole in the spark plug with a bolt head that wouldn't let the bolt fall through the plug. I then fitted the contraption and rotated the piston slowly to TDC making sure that the bolt wouldn't jam against the piston, I then marked the bolt shank took the bolt and marked a line on the shank 1.8 mm lower, at this point I adjusted the contact points so that they were on the verge of opening (just like it states in the Haynes manual) this can be proven with a volt meter or a small light bulb. The manual also states:' that as a final check connect a DC voltmeter to the moving contact lead on the points and to a reliable earth, as the points open the meter should show a reading and at the same time the piston should for my bike be at 1.8mm BTDC, a light bulb can be substituted for a meter, This works ok for me as the plug hole is centrally mounted over the piston. I know of no way to adjust the timing, other than the points and the advance weight in the fly/magneto wheel so I figure that if the timing is out I must have worn components such as a worn points cam,

To remove a rounded plug like you have here, I would escalate my efforts. What I mean by this is firstly as others have said try a six sided socket but before I fitted the socket I would gently tap the corners back into shape with a light hammer. Then and apply positive effort to turn the plug whilst holding the socket firmly on the nut head, On Aircraft components we used to use a what we called a ‘grolly bar’ this was a device that pushed the socket firmly on to the nut head, we would remove 2 adjacent mounting studs/screws and fit two long threaded studs in their place, on these studs we would fit a nut and then a flat plate that would straddle across the back of the plug, this plate would then be used to hold the socket firmly in place and stop it slipping. If this does not look like working there is another type of six sided socket that applies pressure on the sides of the flats, you could try one of those, Failing this you could try a small stillson wrench but access I assume would be a problem so you have to balance your efforts minimising the damage that is likely to be caused, against the components you will have to remove for access Appling heat to the plug to make the metal expand could help to encourage the plug to move also. Others suggest you could use a punch to drift the plug around, but the metals involved are very easy to damaged so using a punch can make things worse, Good luck and be patient,

Hi My previous job was to select metals, elastomers and other materials used in liquids this site offers compatibility references. http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp looking at this it looks like ethanol does not have a recorded effect with brass, that is not to say that there are other fuel additives that could have poor compatibility,

http://richard-clarknz.blogspot.com/2011/03/starter-motor-bench-repair-and-on-car.html Starter electric motors can fail and stop on dead segments , if you rock the engine you will often move the starter to the next live set of segments, the electric motor will then turn over but often slowly as if the battery is flat and the bike could then start. I think if you read the info in on this link you will be able to investigate further.

Hi In the past I have used an in line connector to fit new HT leads, most of the time the old HT lead becomes knackered at the plug cap so I have just cut the lead shorter and added a new length of HT lead . http://www.wemoto.co...e/HL-390010_10/

Hi The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is 'should there be a ball bearing at the end of the clutch push rod?

Hi I agree with Cynic, I have in the past broke off the top of my kick start on my twin shock, all because it was difficult to get it to fire up , I was swinging my leg at it like a mad freak. Since that affair back in the seventies,I have learned my lesson and always been very gentle with the kick start, I now take the opinion that so long as the engine is turned over fast enough to produce a spark then it should start providing the ignition, fuel and compression are all correct.

Tesco bag, Custard bowl , Brummie ,Cov, Darlaston, Dudley, Sadlers, which one?

Hello Heated grips: I used to think they were a waste until I brought my FJR (heated grips standard fit) The first time I used the bike I had to ride across country in the middle of winter (February), So I tried the grips out, previously on my old XJ900 divi, I would of had a spare pair of glove liners wrapped up and wedged on the engine for when my fingers started to hurt, ready to swap over every 40 mins or so, this I would of done about 3 times, But with the heated grips the only part of my hands that got cold were my thumbs and I was able to ride around this, so I would say if heated grips are already fitted and working ok I would leave them on and use them, If not I would just go back to using two sets of glove liners and swapping them round from time to time.

Hi Take a look at this place; http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-BTY-12N73-B0-00.html?gclid=COn7lsfu7qoCFVBTfAodgRLhlQ I think these are the pt numbers for the battery Yam pt no: BTY-12N73-B0-00 battery pt no: YUASA 12N7-3B

Hi I have ridden both bikes the Bantam is fun round town where throwing a bike about a bit is a hoot, but a pain to refuel needing pre mix The B40 is a heavier bike and having ridden one around north Wales would be my choice, starting it could be a bit of fun though, Gears and brakes were always fun having leaping to a BSA straight from a Jap bike Wish I had a B40

They charged me on my debit card £2.50

A Fellow Saddo I too keep all my previous tax discs, but I am puzzled that your DT is only £16 where as My DT 175 is £37 go figure! My oil burning PUG is £110 and your Neighbours derv ford is £30 I'm being robbed!

Idling at 8 thou rpm, The only time mine has done that has been when I have put the throttle slide in the wrong way round and the slot in the throttle slide has missed the locating pin in the carb barrel.

£600.00 HOW MUCH!!! For £600 you could buy a cheap second hand bike break it for spares keep the starter and what ever spares you needed, then sell the rest on E-bay and still not lose money.

Hi Depending on the fault starter motors can be repaired, the starter could have a mechanical failure and providing the parts are obtainable your starter could possibly be overhauled, I would look at getting the starter motor repaired if possible, Alternatively look on e-bay and at local bike breakers for another starter, also try to find out what other Yamaha models use the same starter knowing this could widen your search,

Hi Have you looked at one of these, they could be welded to the swing arm or mounted on a home made bracket on the swing arm. http://www.ebolt.co.uk/universal-off-road-side-kick-stand-1901-p.asp

Hi If all the wires are good, all the bulbs are ok and of the correct ratings, and all of the bulbs flash the same way 'too fast', Surely the next item that is common to all of the bulbs is the flasher unit, I would slave a flasher unit from something else of the same voltage just to try it out.

Hi the Yam dealer in MMowbray is Len Manchesters,

Hi the Yam dealer in MMowbray is Len Manchesters

Hi To obtain the O rings you can get the part numbers for the sizes using the AS 568 'O ring dash numbers', http://www.allstategasket.com/library/Allstate_Gasket_O-Ring_Dash_Sizes.pdf Then all you need to do is find a local O ring supplier and get them to order the ' O rings' Perfluoroelastomer Is probably the best 'O ring Material to use. http://www.toparts.com/Html/ElastomerORingA.htm