nayruf

Hi FD 58 I used this manual to set up my Mikuni carb, it may be of some help, (http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf)

Laughed at? Never! I have had a few bikes not many but a few, My first bike was a 1977 DT 175 1g1, followed by a 1979 400 Four Honda, a short period on a 1976 Z900 Kawasaki, 1980 Maico 250, 1997 900 Diversion, 2007 FJR1300 and I liked my first bike so much I got another 1976 DT175 1g1, out of them all the DT gets/gives the most smiles per mile, it’s the quickest thing through the traffic and the ‘rozzers’ ignore it. So you might find that your 80cc bike could be the bike that you become the most attached to,

Hi To help to un-seize the drain plug, you could warm up the area around the plug with a hot air gun or hair drier at a pinch, this should expand the casing and hopefully the drain plug its self will be slower to expand this coupled with easing oil a good fitting socket and some patience might do the trick, one thing to remember is that easing oil is flammable so are gasoline fumes, and hot air guns warm up electric coils inside them so any flammable fumes could get ignited, I would be sure that the area is well ventilated, It might be easier to remove the whole sump and attempt the task on a work bench especially if the sump can be removed with out much work,

Hi Sacha Looks a very pretty bike, as for riding in traffic keep your wits about you and ride safe.

Hi I used an old electric tooth brush and brasso polish on my carb came up like a new one.

Hi If it is more CC's you are after, I think some people used to bore out TY 175's to 200 cc, this might be an option after all if you get a replacment complete 175 engine you will have a spare top end to play with,

Hi A problem on my DT, might have some bearing on your post (no pun intended) My DT had a small end bearing fail and I sent the bottom half away to get the casings and the crank split to have new con rod and bearings fitted, this the shop did no problems, I then rebuilt the motor new piston and top end bled the oil and was running the bike in fine there was a little vibe similar to yours, but I figured that it was just loosening up a little, Just to be sure I brought a new oil pump. To bleed it and ensure the oiI had made it to the carb nipple I took the plug out and turned the engine over by hand 10 or so times, whilst doing this the engine locked up, What I found was that one of the main bearings the shop had fitted had collapsed and the crank had slid over to the right this had unfortunately allowed the inside of the magneto to contact the ignition/charging coils and they had become trashed. I can only assume that the shop had damage the bearings when they fitted them ‘ In my 30 + years in aero / auto and industrial pump industries I cannot recall new bearings failing like that with out being the victim of some mishandling, So if it were mine I would take the top off check out the small / bottom end and both main bearings looking for any untoward movement, the shop fixed the bottom end for me after a bit of wrangling, but getting a new magneto and coils cost me, If I had been a bit more inquisitive about the vibration I would of only needed to replace a top end gasket set and the shop would have had the bottom end to do under warranty.

Hi Some Yamaha models use the rev counter to show error codes, My old Divi 900 used to use the rev counter to indicate some error codes, pehaps your 900 could be similar.

Hi I don't know your bike very well, but looking at photo's of a yamaha SR 125, 'on google images' the clutch is located under the right hand engine case, the same case as the dip stick is situated, Before you opt for a new set of clutch plates you need to look at the engine/gearbox oil level , clutch cable adjustment and the clutch mechanisum adjustment, my 1970's 175 DT has done 17000 miles and it is still on its first clutch components , so unless your bike has done quite a few more miles or the clutch has been particually abused then I would eliminate all other clutch/gear box problems before I delved into the engine casings. You also need to find out if 1st gear the only gear that you have a problem with, does your bike also have a problem if you select 2nd gear from neutral and does the bike down/upshift through the gears when on the move, some times on any bike it can be a bit difficult to select first gear as you are slowing down through the gear box and it is better to come to a stop before you select 1st, after all whilst the bike is rolling 1st gear can be a gear to low and 2nd is a better bet to avoid transmission snatching.

Hi With my divi 900 I didnt bother with a front extender, but I did invest in a rear hugger, kept most of the crud off the shock,

Hi Try this: link. its a pdf owners manual, it states 6000kms or 6 months: If you don't trust the address Type into google (service interval xj600 n) Was the second link down, (pdf,XJ600s)

Hi I found out recently that my bike insurance company would pay a less if my bike was stolen if I did not have a secondary insurance approved lock fitted, so I would make sure that any lock I acquired was accredited by some type of insurance affiliation.

Hi This is how I would investigate the problems Check oil levels to make sure that they are not overfull, the differential oil level should be filled to the bottom of the filler neck with the bike upright and on a flat level surface, (that is if it is the same as my old Divi 900) if the level is ok then you will need to investigate further, there should be no real pressure in the diff. I believe the vent is there to prevent heat expansion in the diff casing creating a pressure, The engine: Make sure the oil level is correct, If this too is the same as the Divi then I recall that I used to run the bike to push the oil round the engine then turn the engine off and let the oil settle the level was taken from a sight glass on the side of the engine block with the bike upright and on a level surface. But if the crank case is being pressurised then I would compression test the cylinders to find out if the compressed combustion gasses are leaking into the crank case (perhaps via piston rings, or across the head gasket). If the breather vent smells of un-burnt petrol then this could be a symptom of the fuel gas charge escaping past the piston/head gasket, Hope that the problem is just over filling the levels. In my experience the Differential and engines on these bikes should be good for 90,000 miles, 145000 kms plus if looked after

Hi I too am interested in a flip front helmet, But I believe that not all flip front helmets are legal if you ride with the front flipped up, I think MCN had a feature on the topic many moons ago, I recall the feds use flip front helmets but their brand/model of helmet was tested as an open face helmet so they deemed it ok to ride with the front up. things may of changed since then so I might be wrong.

I agree: Bloody new fangled stuff, I did my apprenticeship on wooden framed Foden trucks, some of this modern stuff is frightening to the bank balance when it gets all screwy, God help me when my FJR goes tits up.

Most modern fuel injected vehicles have these switches, they are often called crash switches or inertia switches, My old rover 214 had one it was located behind the centre console, it was useful as an anti theft switch because it was resettable like a circuit breaker. I did not realise modern motorcycles used lean angle devices to achieve this. Allthough once the functionality of the switch has been proven/dissproven, I would recommend that it is re-instated as a functioning safety device, If the bike failed to cut off the fuel/engine in a crash the insurers would have a field day with the claim if they found out.

Hi I have just found on the net an instruction of how to disable the lean angle sensor on a R1, I would assume that your bike has a some what similar sensor set up, The instruction shows a pendulum device in a small replicable unit similar to a flasher unit. http://www.yamaha-forum.net/forum/showthread.php?t=480 I would try to disable or by-pass this unit to prove or disprove that the unit is causing the fault, And many thanks my FJR must have a similar device. It had never crossed my mind before.

Hi This is my tuppence worth, Back in the day I had a 1979 400/4 Honda, the headlight spread cut off was a flat beam that shone across the road at a fixed level, (did not rise or dip at the left or right). I fitted a ‘Cibie’ Concave head light conversion that used a twin filament halogen bulb, this conversion had a beam that was raised to show the curb and not blind the oncoming traffic and it was specified as suitable for the UK, So as Neo suggests a headlamp unit that uses light bulbs should be ok so long as the new lamp is of the older type specification, You could confirm this by e-mailing one of the UK e-bay sellers who sell second hand US import DTs to be used in the UK.

Hi Inbed Tmaster is correct; it would be unwise to use motorcar oils in a bike engine or any engine that has a wet clutch which will be running in the same oil. I believe that motorcar oils have friction inhibitors as additives, these additives could make the clutch slip if used in your bike, I have used in the past (1979) Castrol GTX in a Honda 400/4, I did not have any problems, but I suppose oils nowadays have extra additives that were not used back then.

Hi Sisu My 900 Divi did not have ABS, the brakes were ok, though I felt the bike was a bit heavy for them when braking at speed. Some times leading to a vague feeling pilling into corners, (Most of my mate’s bikes are sports bikes, I was often overworking the brakes playing catch up) I now have a FJR 1300, this has ABS as standard and the brakes are also linked. This bike is a quicker and heavier than the Divi but the way it feels when on the brakes is more reassuring, (I know this difference could be down to the FJR being a better bike) But on balance, I would probably go for ABS if the price was not too high, unless I was a track day fiend, I have ridden the FJR on a quiet dry road and deliberately attempted to get the ABS to function, I was very supprised at how hard I was able to push the tyres before I felt the ABS working and how stable the bike was when the ABS was functioning, I have not got the bottle, stupidity or skill to be this adventurous in slippy conditions, I also feel that once a tyre is sliding sideways the aid ABS can give is limited untill the grip comes back. Each time I ride my bike I learn somthing new, so No doubt other more skilled riders will have better informed opinions,

Hi If your fuel gauge works when the bike is on its side stand then I would suspect the fuel gauge sender unit in the tank. My 900 Divi did the same trick on me, the fault was that the fuel gauge sender had become worn on the float arm pivot, a new sender sorted it. I rode the bike for a week to use up most of the petrol in the tank this left less than a gallon in the bike which was easier to drain, once the tank was off the bike and the sender was removed, wear on the pivot was very obvious, You can most likley prove that wiring to the gauge is not faulty before you remove the tank by checking that the fuel gauge shows full when the sender unit wires make contact with each other. But you would be wise to check the wiring diagram first.

My DT 175 has a 4 stud barrel and the cylinder head shares the same studs as the barrel using sleeve nuts. The manual (Haynes)states 'tighten evenly in a diagonal squence and that the final torque setting is 18 to 20 lbs/f , this statement covers (LT,2,3 100 cc AT1,2,3, 125 cc and CT,1,2,3 175cc including DT125 ,175,) so if your bikes cylinder heads are of a similar set up although you have 2. I would assume the torque settings are about the same, (assumption is the mother of all F@@k up’s) so they tell me, so I would telephone any Yamaha specialist, if you don’t get an answer you will at least be able to make a very good guess,

Hi Dan I just want to tell you what happend to my DT, Like your bike it had stood for about 12 years in a shed, I too cleaned the carbs, tank, plug. points I over oiled the engine and it fired up fine no running problems and it would hold 65 mph, then about 150 miles later it sounded slappy and lost power and I limped it home, I removed the head,barrel and found the Gudgin pin bearing was loose (wrist pin), I figure that because the bike had stood the bearing had dried out and my over oiling might not of gotten to the bearing in time , So what I am trying to say that even though you will get the bike running ok I would still strip the head/barrels off and check out the main/small and big end bearings, If I had I might of avoided having to split the crank shaft, Hope this helps it is only food for thought.

Hi Dan You are right it does inject oil into the inlet side of the carbs, I would bleed the 2 stroke oil pump first, on my bike it is under a little cover plate on the right hand side of the engine case, i would also put a little 2t oil in the fuel tank it will make the bike smokey but you can be sure that there is lubrication present, (I would put a drop or 2 of oil in the plug holes and turn the engine over with the plugs out to fill the crank case with fuel/oil mix and the drops in the plug holes will lubricate the upper bores) It will smoke and might oil up some plugs, but the plugs can be cleaned. Have fun,

Hi Dan The oil I use in the tank on the frame for my DT is Castrol TT for two stroke motorbike engines (semi synthetic) The oil that I use in the engine is is motorcycle engine oil ( UK national motor factor I use is Halfords)see the link; the oil that I use is the 4 stroke engine oil 10/40, This is because the friction inhibitors in the equivalent motor car oils can mess up the wet clutch on a motorbike http://www.halfords....se+relevance||0 I would confirm the right grades/types of oil with the manual, If you don't have the correct manual then you will find that a manual from another 2 stroke yamaha of about the same era will also use the same oils (pehaps a yds7)