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Hi S90 Check with your insurance company as to which secondary security stuff they will recognise, they might give a small discount on the policy (well you can hope) but the main reason is that they will have one less reason to restrict any pay out on theft,

Hi FD 58 I don't think the oil pump sucks the oil through, when I rebuilt mine I had the impression that the oil was gravity fed from the tank to the pump and the two plungers in the pump opened and closed forcing the oil up to the inlet port, I will try to PM you oil pump rebuild data,

Hi J yambits.co.uk , Here in the UK show listings for the condenser/capacitor and L/R points. there must be a similar Canadian or US site.

Will a front wheel from another yamaha fit such as a YB 100 like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-YB100-YB-100-MOTORBIKE-BREAKING-FRONT-WHEEL-LEGAL-TYRE-VERY-NICE-/280872741422?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item416551ea2e

Hi Adil I would check all of the rear tail light connections it looks like you could have a bad earth/ground connection and the electrickery is finding its own path to earth/ground.

Hi Sacha Looking at the photo the battery does look like it has seen better days, when you get your new battery if it needs to be charged be aware that some switchable 6 to 12 volt chargers as used on most cars have a charge rate that is too high for small 6 volt bike batteries, this can make the battery get very hot and will damage it, if the new battery does not come with instructions on its charge rate I think there is a calculation that you can use to find out, I cannot remember the calculation but if you do an internet search then you should be able to find out more, I think the calculation is based on the precentage of the amp/hr discharge rate but I cannot be sure, AJ I know you probably already know this but as well as containing sulfuric acid, lead acid batteries vent off small quantities of hydrogen gas when they are being charged,

Hi Sacha Your thesis graphs remind me of hover performance calculations for Harrier aircraft, Your post makes me wonder that if your battery is unserviceable it might be adding to the bulb blowing problem, I would confirm that the battery is ok and that it is charging correctly, I used a syringe to draw up the electrolite and transferred it to my Hydrometer to get the SG measure, if your Rectifier is not turning the A/C to D/C then iI think this could be what is killing your battery, When my bike had this kind of problem I was a bit impatient and I 'nuked' the problem from orbit by changing the 3 components, one of which was the silicon rectifier,

Hi Lotty My 1976 Dt 175 has one key that fits all its locks and all of the locks have the same number code etched in the lock face, so it is logical for your bike to originally be the same, As to getting a new key using the number, this place might be a good place to start. http://www.gemsec.co.uk/keys.html?gclid=CJrxjqjr0q8CFWwntAodBSxnFA

Hi Ashes My 1G1 twinshock has 2 wires soldered to the condenser, Both are black one is from one of the 3 coils and the other connects to the insulated side of the points.

Hi PB1 Before I drilled and tapped a new thread in the original mount, Try a bicycle shop and buy a handle bar mirror clamp it probably won't cost much, My DT mirror is mounted using one of these i had lying around and it don't look too bad.

Hi Pete Have you checked the float needle valve, if it sticks the float bowl will overflow, some times a light tap on the float bowl will re seat the valve, If you can select neutral without the engine running then I would look at slacking off the clutch cable and re setting the clutch push rod at the actuator arm (lock nut and X head screw) then re adjusting the cable, I think the head light will only work with the engine running, does on mine any how but my bike is older. AJ

Hi FD A friend had a similar problem on an old Super dream it turned out that a rag had sucked into the air filter intake trumpet and whilst the engine was running it made the rag block up the intake after a few miles, Also I have heard of similar symptoms happening to a bike when the fuel tank does not allow air in through the cap vent as the fuel is used, I know these are off the wall answers but both could fit your symptoms, ????? Your post reads that you have probably checked all of the obvious reasons why out. AJ

Hi Sacha Flickering lights whilst the bike is at idle is something my DT does, my DT’s lights also shine brighter and the indicator lamps flash more quickly with any increase in revs. So your bike might not have a problem. With the Fluke connected whilst the bike is running with an increase in revs the output shown on the meter should rise, a regulator should control this to prevent excess, if your bike does not produce enough current to stress the electrics then a regulator might not be needed. However an old friend bike back in the 70’s was blowing his 6 volt head light quite often, so he put a 12 volt stop and tail light bulb in the back light, This 12 volt bulb used up the extra current and his bike ran for years like that but its tail did shine a bit less, it even passed its MOT annual test like that too. But if you feel adventurous and the voltage regulator that is shown on the later wiring diagrams is an easy retro fit you could add a regulator to your bike just for good measure, my bikes regulator has only 1 wire and the body connects to ground, the single wire is connected on an output lead from the magneto it looks to allow excess current back to earth but I assume it really acts a bit like a capacitor, (no doubt others will correct me). I cannot think of any reason why a set up like this could not be used if needed. AJ

Hi Sacha. I assume ‘possibly incorrectly’ that the bike would have a voltage regulator, but AH could very well be right, I would think if a regulator is supposed to be fitted the Clymer manual wiring line diagram would show a schematic symbol for it, My DT/CT manual does not show a voltage regulator for the DT/LT 100 only a rectifier, But you could follow the wires from the magneto through the harness if there was a regulator there then you would find it. With a fluke you should be able to check the output from the magneto, A 6 volt bulb cost me £3 about $ 4.75 in the UK , so I would just fit the new bulb head lamp set and observe the performance of the bulb with the magneto producing a current.

Hi Paul I would consider fitting hoses and using pipe clips as only suitable as a temporary measure, this is because once you have cut the metal pipes there is no going back if the hoses don’t seal or if they react with the oil/heat and fail. So my first approach if the pipe has a split is to try to solder the pipe in the same fashion as a plumber would, If this does not work or is not going to be successful, You could contact the aftermarket motorcycle suppliers who often sell flexible ‘aero quip’ or goodridge type oil hoses. http://www.merlinmot...CFe8htAodZCG-ng Or you could bite the bullet and order some new pipes from a Yamaha agent, Hope this helps and you find suitable fix AJ

Hi Davy F Assuming I am correct in thinking that the bike is air cooled, the description, ‘milky oil’ fits oil that has been contaminated with water, if this is what you have then I think that the oil pipe is the engine crank or rocker box case breather and most likely should be attached to the air filter box probably through some type of mesh type filter, It looks like you have water condensation in this pipe, you should not get too much water in this pipe so I would ensure that it is connected and then try to figure out why it has been disconnected, I would also look at draining the engine oil and look for water contamination in it. Condensation can occur in engines that are used on short journeys that do not warm the engine sufficiently to cook out all of the moisture. I would get a manual for the bike as you will find it shows how to do all the day to day maintanence that your bike requires, and should have schematic diagrams of the various systems on the bike including the engine breather set up. AJ. PS: If this is your 1st post you will get more responses if you say hello in the new member section.

Was on the Viking way, ended out chugging a long in the muddy wheel tracks left by the 4x4 brigade suddenly both my foot pegs wedged in either side, hey presto did a superman over the bars, Must of looked a proper idiot, still if I had of got it on camera could of got £250, No damage, so lesson learned.

Or you are handy with a very small drill and locking wire pliers,

Hi Pb I might be talking out of my backside but: My 900 Divi had front discs that were solid no ‘floating bobbins’, the calipers were floating calipers, when the brake was applied the main pistons pushed the pads against the disc and this caused the lazy pads to follow the travel of the caliper, I don’t know if ‘blue spot calipers work the same way because I think if they have opposing pistons that clamp the disc and the disc is not running centrally between the pads then one pad will push on the disc and the other won’t be able to do the same, although I do realise that the two opposing pistons should balance each other and one piston should sit slightly further out than the other to compensate but I think to make best use of the set floating discs may be needed also. AJ

Hi Sacha It’s good that you can get a bulb headlight set up; replacing a bulb will be easier and cheaper, The only question left to ask is, what was the reason for the original lamp to blow? Was it because of age and natural wear & tear or was it because of an electrical gremlin? I ask this because on my DT which I believe has a similar electrical set up, the head lamp is powered from the magneto not the battery, this means that when the engine is at higher revs it can produce higher voltage. Controlling this is a voltage regulator, My bike blew its replacement bulb and the regulator looked to be allowing higher than needed volts, with the regulator replaced and a new rectifier fitted just for good measure the bike has not blown a bulb since or ‘cooked’ the battery, Neither of the parts cost much and they are easy to fit so the fault was easy to overcome. This is the regulator I used, http://www.ebay.co.u...=item53db8dea14 This is the rectifier, it is polarity sensitive so the + and - connections need to be the right way round, http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f0d70567d I am not trying to throw a dampener on things, I am just trying to giving you a ‘heads up ’on what could be a further fault, AJ

Hi Sacha The new headlight is the wrong voltage so if it works it will not shine as bright, Although physically it will probably fit. The UK & European bikes use headlight lenses this allows the use of different bulbs, I would try to find a replacement headlight lens and a 6 volt bulb to suit, http://www.ebay.co.u...=item336ff5fa57 This is a link to UK ebay an example of this type of lamp, A fellow US member (flyday 58 or something like that) was looking to do the same thing. Early Bikes don’t seem to have handed light beam spread so a UK lens should be ok and will not blind oncoming traffic, the US to UK import bikes of this age don’t normally need headlamp changes, so it should be an ok swap. The clear tube is probably the battery overflow pipe, does it track down through the bike and onto the road, keeping the acid away from the machine? Hope this helps a little AJ

Hi My 1976 DT 175 Twin Shock has a Mikata +0.50, piston fitted, It had done about 3000 miles so far and I have had no problems, I did run the bike in steadily, but I do give the engine a bit of stick every now and then for instance I do get just over 70 mph flat out, I even had the bike on the A1 on friday,

My Flag is not there

Hi It might be worth finding an engineering suppler and purchasing a small amount of shim steel, at the thickness you will need it should be relatively easy to cut into shape, I would take a look in a few bike shops and survey the bikes there to get an idea of the thickness used, you can some times see the shim plate on the back of the brake pad, once you know that you could make a cardboard template and transfer it to the steel, I made a shim this way to space the rear sprocket against the drive hub circlip.

Rozzers = Police, its old English slang name, As for oil in the pipe some oil is to be expected, providing the bike is running smooth I wouldnt worry too much, but if the plug keeps fouling regularly and is very black and is thick with oil I would take a look at pump settings(unless it runs on pre mix), but I would get a manual for that.