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Hi Spurs59 Goodle image search found this place (http://www.bits4motorbikes.co.uk/Handlebars-and-Controls/Handlebars.html)

Hi Tmusser Patience is a virtue, especially when it comes to removing bust studs, If enough of the stud is proud of the surface, I would try a stud extractor with a knurled cam disc or you could try a Klann stud extractor which is a bit like a drill chuck or even a good old fashioned small pair of mole grips, if the stud is bust flush with the surface, You could try to use a dremel and very carefully drill down the centre of the stud with successively larger diameter drills until I could get a reasonably sized reverse thread stud extractor in the hole the only problem is if one of these snap they are even harder to remove than the original stud. This in mind I have in the past used successively larger drills until all that is left in the housing is the thread, this I have carefully peeled out the thread as if it was a spring then re-dressed the hole with a tap. Some people just go the whole hog drill the whole stud out and use a ‘heli-coil’ thread, in some aircraft components I have seen an externally threaded sleeve which was tightened and bonded into an over sized hole in a casing then the inside of the sleeve was tapped to suit the stud that was going to be used , often applying heat to the casing will help in the past I have used electric hot air guns, boiling water and when the boss is out the oven, as to the length of the stud and how far you can drill, try to remove one of the other studs with two nuts locked together to find how deep the studs fit into the head, obviously all this is providing you can get good access to the cylinder head, so although it adds to the overall hassle of the job removing the head might be a wise thing to do. hope this gives you some idea's, Oh by the way: hello and good luck AJ

Hi Michelle Finding parts for older bikes is part of the fun of owning them, you will need to search the net loads and take a look in any auto jumbles. In the UK I use Wemoto, Yambits, Trials uk and redrose retrobikes, the list is endless, but with patience most bits can be obtained, Have Fun

Hi scarfacem1984 I think yamaha did a XJ 400 diversion as well as 600/900.

Hi Coleton The electrics on these bikes is not very strong, the twin-shock model I have is the same, if the battery is weak the indicators flash slowly and as the revs pick up they speed up. Most likely you need to charge, refresh or replace the battery if it still has one fitted, you will also probably find the headlight bulb will not light unless the engine is running, as for a start button a 1978 DT does not have an electric starter, However there is a run/stop cut out switch on the right hand switch cluster, it is used to cut the ignition,

Hi Have you tried car custom intake hose makers ( http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=R9DEN) like this place?

Hi You could try Youtube there are several examples of seat covering tricks, There is even a demonstration on a type of toothed gripper strips that replace the original gripper teeth as they are often rotten, I bit the bullet and brought a new metal based seat from an ebay seller in Tiawan, the seat fits very well and looks almost like an exact replica but I think it is for the smaller eastern behind as the seat is about 2 inches shorter then the original,

Gulf war number 1 cured my smoking, but I still crave the smell of a newly open packet of tabs or baccy, I once tried to smoke a tab in 2002 whilst p'ssed in the south atlantic holiday camp, made my chuck up timmys finest hooch and I got crated

Hi The location for a chain when locking a bike up can be different each time you lock it depending on where you are parking, the main points people often quote is to try to ensure that the chain is off the ground so that the floor cannot be used to allow one handle of a bolt cutter to be on the floor secured in place by foot allowing a two handed pull down on the other, also I would try to pick a well lit place where people will see what is going on and where a lot of attention would be attracted if the bike was being man handled, as to riding off road, check out local green lane clubs they often have knowlege where the best off road rupps and local tracks.

Hi We used to run in Maico motor cross pistons in to a new bore by starting the engine allowing the engine to warm up with very little revs, then we would let it cool down and re-torque the head/barrel, then ride around on a few slow laps, then just ride as normal, bearing in mind that these were race bikes and the piston life can sometimes be quite short. So I should imagine that providing you allow the engine to warm up then let it cool fully followed by a re-torque then run the engine without over or under stressing it for a 100 miles or so then it would be ok, I did the same to my DT 175 after new mains, small end, big end a con rod and a new piston in a freshly honed bore and that was over 2000 miles ago, Good luck have fun and don’t hold it against me if it goes pop

Hi LSG765 I believe you are correct I think it is a DT100 about 1976 to 78 ish

Hi Sacha i am pretty sure that your bike does not have an oil filter, in fact I am positive that it doesnt have one, the oil in the gear case is only to lubricate the gears and clutch and these gears etc are bathed in the oil as they are running, the crank case and cylinder are lubricated via the fuel/auto lube pump so as this oil is burned away and not re-used it is not filtered.

Hi It can be a pain in the arse to have to wait for the exausts to cool down so they don't melt the cover, so try to get a cover that won't melt, as for corrosion I think there are covers that use breathable water proof materials, they should help stop some of the condensation,

Hi Upurs The symptoms sound like a problem I had with a car master cylinder, the piston return spring had been rubbing on the side of the cylinder bore and the spring had collapsed the brake pedal was returning back up because of the return spring on the pedal box assy but the piston was staying put and not returning fully. the brakes were not jamming on because the down stream fluid pressure was enough to just hold back the piston. could be your bike has the same problem

Hi Droz I think your bike is probably similar to mine and my bikes ignition timing cannot be adjusted, the magneto back plate is fixed and the points are fixed to that, So on my bike if the timing was 90 deg out when the piston at the correct position BTDC and the mark on the magneto rotor does not line up and points are not open, If was the case I would look to see if woodruff key snapped on the crank shaft taper and check to see if the points cam can rotate around the magnito stub, if so has the advance spring failed, I don't know the correct set up on your bike so I hope this is of some help,

Hi Sacha Your bike looks like it has had a very easy life every thing looks nice and new, I suspect that a lot of FS1E parts are interchangable with your bike, such as the front brake cable, shocks and pehaps even mud guards, here in the UK the FS1E has a cult following so there are a few companys that specialise in parts such as 'yambits', you might want to give them a look over to see what new bits and pieces you can get, replacement FS1E shocks are about £40.00 here

Yes butt imagine the skid marks with a tyre that big

Hi K93 You have to do some investigation before anybody can offer worth while opinions. But I would check my brake pads and wheel bearings if the noise is coming from the front of the bike and occurs when the wheel revolves. The list of investigative questions you need to find the answers to can be many and varied but the sorts of things you need to be thinking about are! Does the noise come from the front wheel or back or when applying the brakes? Does the noise happen whilst the engine is ticking over under revs when stationary? Can you reproduce the noise with the bike on the centre stand and spinning the wheels? If you cannot whittle the problem down to a specific area or component I would nip to the nearest motor bike shop and ask them to just give it a quick look see, They will at least be able to advise if your bikes problem is dangerous, Grinding noises are not a good thing and they can be the final signs of component failure so if I was not sure what the fault was I would be very careful riding the bike until I had got a good idea whether it is dangerous, expensive or both. Hope you find the answer soon

Hi I have just looked through my FJR sevice manual (not the owners manual) and I cannot find a service setting or mode for the (alarm/imob), that is not to say that there is not such a setting, However wouldnt disconnecting the battery or removing a fuse prevent the system arming its self, failing that any Yamaha service centre should be able to provide setting details. I got my manual from E-bay it was only £4.00

I am a tight git so if non originality is not a problem I would scavenge aroung my local car breakers yard looking for radiator top hoses or some such similar adaptable hoses, before giving any Dick Turpin my dosh, just a thought

Really nice just like the bike I first learned to ride, would love mine to be that good, Is that a piece of hose around the side stand? gona copy that, will stop the stand from bashing the passenger foot peg,

Me Too Line swine all the way!

Hi The forum norm is to post a brief hello in the new members section, Your carb problem sounds like you have a sticking float valve a good strip and clean of the carb will probably solve the problem, some times a very light tap on the carb float bowl will re-seat the valve for a short time

Just gotta be a Liney!

Hi Hi ya: Spent some very cold and drunk times in Goose bay, even crashed a skidoo into a tree stump lost my deposit