wild foamy

Hi everyone. im just tarting my DT up a bit and was wondering if i could change the handlebars easily. basically they are too straight, they pull my shoulders forward and when sitting upright it starts to ache after about half hour. are there any drag style bars/ swept back bars that would fit it? i rode an original DT50MX not too long ago and that had the original bars which felt alot nicer and relaxed, but i would rather find a nice cheap set of aftermarkets than get a set of originals

to be able to ride my bike without breaking it and/or falling off it. ... yep, i fail... first a piston ring and now the clutch cable...

found my home cinema remote! it had fallen down the back of one of ym speakers, must have accidentally knocked it off. no sign of the phone, tv remote and most importantly, my wallet will re-trace my steps tomorrow morning and see if i can find my phone along the backroad where i had to start pushing my bike back. ive got a decent idea of where it will be but i just need to have a good look in the daylight. im not bothered about the phone but i want the memory card and sim card as it has all my numbers, photos, videos, music e.t.c on it. Last time i remember having my wallet was monday at Air cadets, i will check if they have had anything handed into the office at the premises on monday. hopefully someone will return it to me :'(, can't take my theory test otherwise

45mph. its all i can squeeze out of my wickle DT, and thats fine, it gets me from A to B and costs £5 in fuel to run for two weeks. i cant afford to use the brakes because it takes too long to build the speed up again, and after a few minutes you want to get home A.S.A.P because its f*cking freezing i did break the speed limit once... was a 30 limit and i was doing 40... i felt like such a bad boy

cheaky OG the RD250 does look nice, but they are big money and i was sorta aiming for £500-£1000 price range

having ridden through winter on a DT50, i now want something a bit bigger with a 12v electrics system that will run a set of heated grips and a headlight that actually illuminates the road more than 4 metres ahead of you i do love my little DT though, theres something about having so little power in a bike you could loose in your pocket that makes it so appealing...

Hi everyone. just been doing a bit of research. im currently 16 and paid £180 for Third party fire and theft insurance on my 1989 Yamaha DT50MX with Swinton bikes it will cost me £117 for TP F&T insurance on my Yamaha DT50 next year, when im 17 and have taken a full bike test but only £153 TP F&T on a honda CB250. as opposed to about £1,500 for insuring a car. So, having done my research i have concluded that it will be cheaper and easier to take my full bike test and get a honda CB250 instead of getting a car which will cost more to run and more for insurance, lessons e.t.c. BUT, is there a yamaha equivelant to the honda CB250 that would cost about the same insurance-wise, perform roughly the same and is the same sort of general shape?

yeh, if you find the one with my wallet and bank card, ask him to give it back. must have been a good christmas party they had,

nope, paypal

This is starting to piss me off now. Last sunday i lost my phone whilst walking the bike back from hungerford after it ceised up. then during the week i lost both the remote for my home cinema system and my TV, so my home cinema system can't be adjusted (no buttons on the unit itself) and my TV is stuck on PC input mode. and NOW ive come to book my theory test and ive lost my wallet, which has £30 cash, my driving licence, bank card and a few other bits in it. this is fucking rediculous. dam you gremlins, give me my stuff back rant over

Lol, quite good that

work out a bit? only joking, try moving your hand further up the lever for a bit more leverage, other than that im not sure there is anything you can do in regards to softening the clutch spring mechanism, perhaps use thinner fluid if it is a hydraulic clutch, or if its an old cable system like on my DT try adding a bit more lube to the cable

new rings arrived today and now the peashooter is back on the road. lesson learnt. i put some extra oil in with the fuel to help the new rings seat in, think i may have over-done it as its now a bit smokey and bogs down a bit

ive got a full year to wait until im 17, and i would rather have a full moped licence. i get paid thursday so will be putting new brakes and tyres on the DT, and booking my theory test

ive never found mole grips to work effectively on head bolts, there isnt enough access. i think the self adjusting wrnechs refered to are actually called "Stillsons" or Pipe wrenches, i used a pair at the weekend to get a stuborn exhaust nut off and also to get the sheared bolts out of my reed block http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAVY-DUTY-PIPE-WREN...%3A1|240%3A1318 the above example is the type of wrnech i meant, not sure how effective this would be on an engine head as on my DT50 the nuts are hidden between the fins. you may end up having to heat it up and crack it to remove it, but be carefull not to damage the threads on the stud it screws onto

i did take the nescessary precautions when installing the kit, and got it well lubed up for the first run. the old 50cc pot is back on and running the original jet how do i force the pump stroke to its maximum?

would i be able speed up the oil supply to give it a bit more lube?, just a thought as it may help when breaking in the new rings

big bore kit is a loss, some deep scratches down the side of the cylinder on the exhaust side and it doesnt seem to want to run. whilst putting the original bore back on i snapped one of the piston rings, so now i need a new set of rings and have a piece of piston ring inside my engine which has jammed the crank too cold to mess around with it tonight,

bad news... went to Bikex to get a new jet, only to find that they hadn't got any. and on the way back it died whilst going up a hill. no coughs, no nothing, just there on minute and the next it had completely cut out. that was possibly the longest walk i have ever done, and even with a small bike its hard to push it the remaining 3 miles home. took the head off when i got home and there were no signs of lean running, the plug was wet with fuel, with a dark brown colour on the cylinder head and piston (no obvious signs of overheating or internal damage). it has compression, fuel and spark so im not sure what to do now. sometimes whilst attempting to start, it will backfire (and when in a closed garage on your own, scares the sh*t out of you if you arent expecting it) so it is atleast firing, just not constantly and in the right direction. Lesson learnt, will put the original bore back on tomorrow. - Steve

i gets paid on the 8th so hopefully i will be able to book my test and get it done some time in february

Had a quick look around for jets, the one already in my carb is hexagonal and the head is aobut 3mm deep on it. most other ones ive found are either Round,or have a much longer hexagonal head. can anyone reccomend a good jet that would fit? my haynes manual shows the same hexagonal head that is already on my carb :S

well i got out there this morning, took the carb off and took the carb bowl off, sure enough the little main jet was right there looking at me. the main jet is a size 94 (88 stock) and the big long one it was sat on was an 80 i think. will probably try a 105 and 115 to get a good idea of where abouts it needs to be, then fine-tune it your right about tinkering with 50s', its good fun and it is indeed an autolube engine with a mikuni carb, the whole barrel was changed so the exhaust port is brand new, much like the rest of its internals

ah kk, will try that tomorrow, thanks

okay, will have a tinker with the carb tomorrow and go up a couple of sizes on the jet, is there anytihng i can do about the low/mid-range lack of power?, or is that just because the big bor eis new?

hmm, okay, would i need to take the carb bowl off to get to it and change it? i thought there were 2 or 3 jets (Main jet, pilot jet, needle jet?)