wild foamy

now there is an advantage of having a two stroke... the excess oil just drips out the exhaust pipe so to make goo use of it, simply wipe the excess oil under the door handles and on the windscreen wipers, im a proper biker now

the shifter may have a broken/weak return spring which is preventing the lever from returning to the centre when you shift down, hence why you have to put your foot right down and pull it back up. also, strip it down and check your selector forks, bent/broken selector forks can cause all sorts of problems. finding Neutral isnt always easy, on some bikes it will drop straight into neutral, on my DT i usually have to change into 2nd and then tap my foot on the lever to get it to drop into neutral, i've been told this is a worn detent plunger but it works so im not going to fiddle with it incase i break it the crack wont have any effect on the engine compression and your lack of power is most likely the carb, if it isnt set up right i may be running the mixture overly rich (too much fuel, bogs down, no power) or too lean (less fuel, engine tends to run hotter and in extreme cases be low on power) im not familiar with that particular bike but im assuming its a 2 stroke, if its a 4 stroke then check your vales and timing to make sure it is set up right.

Fast = 50mph, its all i could squeeze out of my little DT50 and that was downhill all huddled up against the bike, getting alaughed at by every chav in their honda civics, but it was fun fast through a corner = 30mph... learnt a very painful lesson whilst trying to get my knee down on a push-bike... skinny tyres on wet roads = FAIL, still havent got my confidence back enough to go over far enough on my DT

havent considered replacing the loom as it only appears to be the black wires under the headlight that have gone all shitty, most likely because its all exposed to the wind, rain and shite. will keep an eye out for a wiring loom on the 'bay, to keep as a spare if nothing else. just got off the phone to my dad, he says its most likely a bit of both, when starting it the bike will rev up and then drop, and when its idling the RPMs will go up and down so its most likely a lean mixture despite the fact the plug looks black... :S how long does it take for the effects of the mixture to show on the plug?, ive got two plugs coming from ebay anyway so i could try a new plug anyway ive already started prepping for ireland, hence why ive now put new tyres and brakes on it and am sorting out little problems like these

Hi everyone. where can i find a plastic cover for the clocks on a BWs? ('54), mate of mine had his broke and im trying to find a replacement for him but the nearest thing ive found is a complete set of clocks for about £20, can i get the glass seperately or is ti all as one unit? regards Steve

are you running an in-line fuel filter?, that may help prevent it sucking shite from the bottom of your tank in future, get some fuel treatment and give it a good blast to clear it out a bit, if it still doesnt get better you may need to strip down the carb and clean out any obstructions, blocked jets e.t.c have you tried it on fresh fuel?, contaminated fuel can give a bike some dodgey symptoms

cor blimey, makes my wickle DT look a bit... erm... well, shite... ... want one now...

Hahaha them young'ens eh?... times like this i feel old...

got any hose?

Good luck, its a 10 from me!

its most likely a leccy fault. i just put new piston rings in it so i wouldn't have thought that is the problem had a good look at the wiring loom at the front and its a bit of a mess to say the least, the black wires are all green and corroded, so looks like during the week i will have to be replacing those. whilst im at it i may aswell change the plug and HT lead i dont think i could sell it... not just yet...

Dublin- 0:03AM *dials number* "Oldgit??... IT DONT WORK ... and there are leprechauns after me..."

yeh, i think i may have to get a little Suzuki or something when i go to Ireland

Yep, my trusty thrusty little peashooter decided to go pop about 5 miles from andover, 10 miles away from home in the middle of nowere on a country road. quite happily batting along when it just died almost instantly. so i coasted to the side of the road and spent the next 5 minutes kicking it and running up and down the road. a passer by stopped and lent me his phone to call my dad, and after another 5-10 minutes of hammering the kickstart and running around in the road trying to get it to start it did eventually start up but wouldn't idle. i managed to ride it home with my dad following me in the van, later inspection points to either an electrical fault (explains the cutting out under load) and carberation. hmm... perhaps i should stick to skateboards... :S

Lol, great minds think alike, i was just on the maplins website as i drew up that little schematic. quick blast up to andover tomorrow then to go shopping for some parts

Hi everyone. just a qucik question, it may seem a bit of a no-brainer but im new to this motoring lark . basically, do motorcycles need to use pay and display?, a few weeks ago when i went to Andover, neither of the other two bikes in the car park had P&D tickets, and i dont really have anywere to stick a ticket to. Regards Steve

Hi everyone. im getting myself a little satnav and would like it to be able to charge from my bike whilst im riding. i can use the satnavs' mini USB port to supply the power (5Vdc), and because maplins sell the individual connectors i can make an adapter without much of a problem. BUT. my bike uses a 6V regulated supply for the indicators and brake light, would i be able to run a second wire from the Positive terminal on my 6Vdc battery, drop it through a 5Vdc regulator to the USB plug and then run a common ground from the USB plug and the regulator to the negative terminal on the battery, with an on/off switch on the handlebars i was aiming for a 0.5 amp draw, which should be okay as my haynes manual indicates the charging current is a minimum of 0.8A (lights on @ 3000RPM) up to 2.0A (lights off @ 8000RPM) any advice would be appreciated Steve

Swinton gave me the best quote, about £50 cheaper than anyone else. Third party insurance on a DT50MX = £130 TP F&T = £180 Fully comp = £500 i went for TP F&T in the end

a loose dust cup wouldnt have made that much difference i would have thought... my flat tire was caused by a big-assf*cking nail, other than that sort of thing its mainly dodgey valves that deflate the inner tube

Speedbump! *thump-thump*...

lol "back in the day" eh?

Crazy?!... oldgitonabike is a VERY talented musician

im looking more for a comfortable ride than anything else, hence why i chose a DT over a replica bike. im not keen on revving the bollocks off these little engines so if the CB has more low-end than top-end it would probably be ideal. will keep a lookout for both, if there is enough money left over from my ford capri fund then i will probably get whichever one is available at the time a 400 would be nice but to insure a CB400 is more than double what it would be for a 250

possibly some sort of carb/fueling fault, i suggest you give the carbs a good clean out and use fresh fuel, see if that cures your problem

my point exactly.